A week-long roadtrip from Tucson to the Navajo Reservation starts with a day at Lower Antelope Canyon near Page. Being a low-budget roadtrip, we took my tiny RV and planned to camp as cheaply as possible. We arrived in Page shortly after dark and grabbed a bite to eat at a less than specatacular and slightly overpriced restaurant, Los Dolfines.
Using Google Maps, we attempted to find a local campground. They were all booked and we headed to Wal-Mart for a relaxing night in the parking lot. We pulled around the side and found a nice little spot not too close to the loading dock or any other RV.
We woke up at a leisurely pace and had breakfast in the motorhome. Then, headed out on the 10 mile drive to Antelope Canyon. Our research had us sure that the lower canyon was the place to start. It is less crowded, more photographer friendly, and cheaper.
We saw the sign for the upper canyon and somehow missed the lower antelope canyon turnoff. The road to the lower canyon is only about 50 yards from the upper canyon but on the other side of rte. 98, Indian Rte 222. We turned around just past the power plant that looms over the countryside and found the lower canyon on our way back.
As you turn in to the canyon, you will be surprised at how quaint the entrance really is. park in the dirt field and walk over to the shack... The fee structure was pretty simple, $20 entrance for the tour plus a $6 daily 'permit' fee -- the permit is good at both canyons.
When the lady in the booth saw our tripods, she asked if we would like a photo pass so we can spend time in the canyon -- for no extra fee! So, photo passes in hand, we waited for the next tour group departure and the guide explained that we just need to enter with the group and then we were free to roam on our own for four hours.
The unassuming entrance to the canyon:
Steel steps descend into the canyon:
Once in, the canyon opens quite a bit:
Once in the canyon, it is like a photographer's disneyland! Everywhere one turns, there is color, texture, and light that begs for a photo. I enjoyed shooting the photographers shooting the canyon and each other almost as much as shooting the sandstone formations themselves.
Speaking of photographers, I had the opportunity to meet Jack Dykinga in the Canyon. He and Jeff Foote were shooting together and my travel companion happened to start up a conversation. Jack was shooting 4x5 velvia 100. I left my 4x5 in the car but will probably shoot exclusively large format on my next trip into the canyon:
Some of the tour guides bring a guitar and serenade the tourists with their accoustic guitar performance. Expecting a classic Navajo tune to get you in the moment of the canyon? Nope! Guns-N-Roses, Metalica, and classic hard rock is what you will hear echoing through the canyon. The acoustics in the canyon are unlike anything you will hear anywhere else.
Here are some of my personal favorites from the trip:
The seasoned photographers in the canyon enjoy contrasting the peach against the magenta when the lighting is right:
All said, we were in the canyon for just over our 4-hour limit and decided to forego the upper canyon. To be honest, it was a bit overwhelming to be in that canyon for 4 hours. Without spending the time to review our photos, I don't know if we would have been able to capture anything more worthwhile in the upper canyon. I think next trip will include a day in each canyon and a real campsite with electric hookup so I can return to the campground and relax and edit photos.
Since we were on a budget and a schedule, we headed down the road toward monument valley. Stay tuned for the next post on Monument Valley, an area with sandstone formations and cliffs so beautiful that it could be an attraction itelf -- but in the land of amazing sandstone canyons remains unnamed, with this trip culminating in Canyon de Chelly on a Navajo jeweler's fashion shoot.
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