Kyoto

A Japanese Treasure

Spence Autry

December 7, 2009

It’s ironic that I chose to write a story about Kyoto, Japan on Pearl Harbor Day but there is a link.  Kyoto was the only major Japanese city not bombed during WWII and remains filled with temples, shrines, imperial palaces and traditional wooden homes.  This plus the fact it is the former capital of Japan and it’s easy to understand why Kyoto is the most historically significant city in Japan. With 1,700 Buddhist temples and 300 Shinto shrines, Kyoto deserves to be on everyone’s “must see” list but it’s what’s not on the tourist maps that makes Kyoto special to me. 

My wife, Susan, and I visited Kyoto in February of 2007 with our son, Brennan, his wife, Stephanie, and their son, Logen.  Brennan was in the navy and stationed at the Yokosuka Navy Base near Tokyo.  It took us about 6 hours to drive to Kyoto but that was affected by frequent stopping with a two year old. 

We had our list of top sites to visit in Kyoto and on the first morning we headed for Heian Shrine, the most famous shrine in Kyoto.  With its huge orange Torri gate and orange, green and white buildings, Heian Shrine is also one of Kyoto’s most beautiful sites.  As striking as the buildings are it is the gardens that make this shrine outstanding.  Leaving Heian Shrine we stopped at several smaller shrines before arriving at Kiyomizu Temple, Kyoto’s most famous temple.  Built on a prominent spot at the top of Mt Otowa, Kiyomizu Temple’s main hall is a huge wooden structure with a veranda on the edge of the cliff offering spectacular views over Kyoto. 

Next we visited Nijo Caste, the home of the Tokugawa shogun.  Built in 1603 it stands in stark contrast to the other shogun castles which were constructed purely for defense.  Nijo Castle is made from native cypress and has delicately carved wooden ceilings and painted shoji screens.  But it is a castle and it is surrounded by a moat and high stone walls.  One last line of defense for the shogun was the so called “nightingale floors” that were installed in the corridors leading to the shogun’s bed chambers.  These special floorboards creaked with an almost melodic tone when trod upon and would warn the shogun if anyone was approaching his chambers. 

Want to take a walking tour?  Then I would recommend the Philosopher’s Walk.  Named for a philosophy professor who walked this route daily in the early 20^th century, the path follows a winding canal north from central Kyoto, past 9 temples and shrines before ending at Ginkaku-ji Temple, the Temple of the Silver Pavilion.  Contrary to its name, it is not silver.  Built as a retirement villa by Shogun Ashikaga Yashimasa in 1482, it was to be covered with silver to imitate the Golden Pavilion built by his grandfather.  He died before he could finish his villa but the wooden buildings are still beautiful.  The whole complex is designed to maximize the enjoyment of the tea ceremony, moon viewing and other aesthetic pursuits. 

For me the most beautiful site in Kyoto is the Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji.  Built as the retirement villa for the shogun, Yoshimitsu, in the late 1300’s it became a temple when he joined the priesthood at age 37. The three story building is completely covered in gold leaf and glistens in the sunlight.  As we approached the temple clouds rolled in and it began snowing lightly.  Soon the clouds cleared and we were treated to bright sun and blue skies. 

Our last major shine in Kyoto was one of my favorites.  The Fushimi Inari Shine is located on the outskirts of Kyoto in the sake-making district.  Dedicated to Inari, the fox, the deity of rice and sake, it has a much photographed avenue formed by hundreds of Torri gates. 

As I said, the tourist sites make Kyoto worth a visit but it’s the things not in the guide books that I found most enjoyable.  Things like the small tea houses with just two or three tables serving tea in the traditional way; old wooden houses with small courtyards planted with colorful azaleas and irises being tended by women in printed, silk, kimonos; small, winding, stone streets lined with open-fronted stores selling paper fans, beautiful pottery, colorful writing paper and delicious looking sweets; geishas walking quickly down the narrow streets hurrying to their appointments; and small restaurants where you are led inside by the aroma of traditional Japanese cooking.  Yes, you can find these things in other areas of Japan but nowhere else does it all come together in an exotic blend that says “I am in Japan”.