I lived in Krakow (Cracovia) for 6 months while studying abroad. I fell in love with the city and I hope you enjoy discovering my home away from home as much as I did...

Transportation -  If you are coming into Cracow by train you will arrive at the Main Train Station (Dworzec Glowny). You will come off the tracks and enter the city up through a new shopping mall. Go up the escalators and take a left out of the building heading towards the Stare Miasto (Old City Center). The city center will be on your right as you come to the intersection. There is a tunnel running underneath the street that empties out onto the Planty. The tourist office is here, taxi stands are nearby and buses and trams running out to the peripheral areas stop here. If you are arriving by airplane, you have several options. There is a train that runs to the main train station but they frequently get canceled and aren't as reliable. There is a bus, the 192, that runs frequently to the city center but if you have luggage remember that you have to buy a ticket for yourself and your bag too. Your best option is to take a taxi (50-60 zloty) to your hotel. Unless you are planning to travel all around Poland, there is no reason to rent a car if coming to Cracow. The public transportation is excellent. Many of the day trips outside the city have buses and trains running between the city and your destination frequently. It is also a very affordable and user friendly system.

Note: Make sure that as soon as you board a bus or tram that you find the box to stamp your ticket. The Polish bus system has people that ride the transport and frequently check. The fine is steep and on the spot.  

Where to Stay - As far as where to stay in Cracow, I would recommend doing some research. I always opt for an apartment while I am there. It gives me a better sense of the actual culture than a hotel does and many times it is cheaper and closer to the city center. I recommend using Cracow Apartments. You might also check at the Universities in the city. Most of them will rent out the dorm rooms at very discounted rates during the summers. 

What To See - There are monuments and attractions for everyone from families with children to history buffs. If you are in Cracow for three days or more I would suggest breaking the days up by districts of the city - Wawel Castle, Kazimierz and the Stare Miasto with two days on the side for day trips to Wieliczka Salt Mines and Auschwitz/Birkenau in Oswiecim. 

Cracow was originally the capital of Poland  and served as the coronation place for the kings from the 11th to the 17th century.The Royal Way starts at the Barbican and travels through the Florian Gate and down Florianska to the Main Square and down Grodzka to the foot of Wawel Hill. The back entrance leads up and around on the Vistula side, however I would recommend the entry off of Kanonicza that leads up to the ticket office.

The castle can keep you occupied easily for a whole day, but you wouldn't lose anything by skipping most of the attractions and hitting the highlights. The Lost Wawel was a great exhibition for children and adults. You wind through the basement of the castle and travel through archeological remains of the Renaissance, Gothic and the Romanesque Rotunda of  the Blessed Virgin Mary. The Dragon's Den leads down a winding stair to the caves beneath the Castle complex. The legend surrounding the beginning of Cracow stems from these caverns. The Cathedral is a must for any architecture or history lover and the hike up the tower to Sigismund's Bell is worth it if not for the view of the city alone. 

For the history buffs the Jagiellonian University is a definite on any stop. It is the oldest Polish University established back in the 1360's and still in use today. Kanonicza Street is down the street and is one of the oldest and important streets in the city. Many of the building are in their original forms since the Nazi's spared the city at the end of World War II. Most of the buildings are owned by the church or the Poltechnica of Cracow. Senacka is also has a great nalesniki (Polish crepes) bar which is great for a filling cheap lunch. A mleczny bar is also around the corner. It is a Polish version of a cafeteria and serves hearty local food for pennies on the dollar. Take a chance just point at a few things that look good and go for it. I have never had anything bad from that cafeteria. It was the poor college students dream when I lived there.

For art and architecture lovers, I would recommend the Franciscan and Dominican Churches located at opposite ends of the Wszysick Swietych Square. The Franciscan church has beautiful organic stained glass in the altar area and painted symbols in the nave. It is a good place to rest your feet and enjoy some quiet on warm days. On the back wall over the entry is also the famous window of Moses by Stanislaw Wyspianski. Down Grodzka Street is also St. Andrew's Church, one of the oldest churches in the city built in the 1100's and SS. Peter and Paul's Church located on the original main square of the city. Legend has it that St. Andrew's is the real church that was protecting the town's people when the Tartas invaded and the bugler was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm. This tradition is still carried on today every hour on the hour from the tower of St. Mary's Church in the Main Square. For a more modern twist, grab a tram over the river and head to the Manggha Museum. Check the front desk, you might even catch a free lecture by a well known architect.

In the evenings and your are looking for romance check out the Planty. The Planty is narrow ring of greenery that follows the old city walls. It is also a great place for people watching. 

Kazimierz was made famous with the movie Schindler's List, which was taped here. Many tours are offered by companies in the city but it is a small enough area that you can wander and get a sense of the place. It has a completely different vibe from the Stare Miasto.  The churches of St. Catherine's and Corpus Christi are worth seeing and  participating in a worship service in these churches are highly recommended both as a cultural experience and as a way to view the architecture. Cross the river and head to the Podgorze district to witness the Jewish Ghetto. Make sure you visit the Pharmacy Under the Eagle and the remains of the Plaszow labor camp, especially if you are short on time and miss Auschwitz. The old Schindler's factory has also been renewed and is an art gallery now. 

Where to Shop - The Main Square and the Sukiennice (Cloth Hall) are great places to hunt for souvenirs. The products probably will be more expensive here. Make sure you hold onto your purchases. My mother had just purchased a glass doll and she was jostled by the crowd and dropped it and she broke. For a unique gift, search out the wood carver stall that has a three man chess board. I have never see anything like it. Outside the Cloth Hall is a great place to buy artwork also.

Where to Eat/ Nightlife -  For those craving veggies (or vegetarians) head to the basement for Chimera's salads. It is through the corridor leading to the courtyard and down some steps on your left. Continue away from the restaurant to your left to get in line. Maly is the small (you get 3-4 types) and duzy is the large (5-6 types). 

Note: Polish salads are not the same as our version of salad - peruse the line of food. Dym is a great little coffee bar popular with the local college kids. The name, Dym, means smoke so be forwarned. The hot tea and desserts are great and it is my favorite hole-in-the wall in the city. 

Alchemia and Fshut are both located in the Kazimierz district and are great for nightlife. Alchemia is going to be your more laid back place that is conducive to conversation. Fshut is the wild child for night entertainment and forget talking unless shouting is your form of communication. There will be a line at the door so dress appropriately and come early. 

For children  - The Water Park on the periphery of town is great. It is located in a complex of a Multi Kino (cinema) and a mall (Geant). The Kino is a great rainy day distraction. The movies are in English with Polish subtitles. They tend to be a few months behind our release dates but if you missed one it is a great way to catch in the theater. The Geant is a huge grocery store, food court and mini mall in one.  The water park has three pools, swim lanes, exercise equipment, and water slides. the whole complex is inside and when you enter you will pay for a certain block of time and get a colored bracelet representing that time slot. Keep an ear out for the time announcements signaling when you are out of time. The 129 and 152 buses both serve this area from the city center.