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      <title>The candy palace</title>
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      <description>Stopping in for a quick sandwich isn’t always as easy as it seems. After  hollowing out half of the fresh bread roll with his fingers, Marcello  packs the cavity full of anti pasti — pickled peppers, marinated  mushrooms and artichoke hearts — then piles on salami, mortadella and  cheese. After he finishes, he asks us if we’d like some wine.  “Si,” I  answer, not quite sure where he stashes the fermented grape juice in his  tiny snack bar, called the “Jardinetti” (little garden) of Brindisi.   The answer is inside a plastic bag on the counter. After setting out a  row of cups, Marcelllo pours a slug for each of us out of a huge plastic  jug and gradually the story emerges.  The wine is made by the family of  Michele April, the man in the photo with the shaved head and the beard  (the other guy is Marcello).  “It’s the Novella, only two days old,”  Marcello says, pantomiming a stomping motion with his feet. “It’s  natural … only for the family,” he adds, explaining that the wine is not  for sale, but is only shared among friends.  We’re not sure why we’ve  been included in this round of drinks. With our backpacks and somewhat  grimy clothes, we must look like thousands of other backpacking  travelers who stream through the train station and past Marcello’s booth  on their way to the ferry port. Maybe he took a liking to us because we  aren’t too picky. When he asked what we wanted on our sandwich, we just  told him to fix it his way. And the wine is good — delicious, in fact.  Think Beaujolais Nouveau, except with a lot more personality.  Michele  says the wine was shaken up a bit too much in the car during the ride  from Foggia, where his family’s vineyard is located. He says the  sediment will settle to the bottom in a day,improving the taste but we  all enjoy it as it is.  Michele shows us his Navy ID card after we tell  him about our visit to Corfu and his eyes light up as we talk about the  Greek island. He says he was stationed there for a while during his  service.  Just before Leigh and I head for our night train, He pulls his  naval  uniform out of the trunk of his car and asks Leigh to  put on  the dark blue dress jacket and white hat for a last round of pictures.   The he tries  to draw a map to his vineyard in mid-air and writes down  the name of his family’s estate in my notebook just before we scramble  across the street and into the station.  We’re a little tipsy, and our  Italian is questionable at best, but we’re  pretty sure he wants us to  visit if we ever make it back to this part of the Italian boot — and  we’d sure like to taste that wine again after it’s aged for a year or  two. Sounds like reason enough for a return trip to us!</description>
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      <title>Kayaking in Ksamil Bay, Albania</title>
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      <description>During an evening stroll in Saranda, Albania, Leigh and I stopped in a small store, where I started to browse through a book with aerial photos of Albania. A picture of a small island, with a hide-away cove, caught my eye. When I looked up the location of the island, I found it was only a few miles south of Saranda. The next day, I took a taxi to the town of Ksamil and wandered along the waterfront. In late October, it felt deserted. All the beachside restaurants were closed, with beach loungers neatly folded away and the shutters down. I could see the island about a quarter mile away, and I briefly thought about swimming to it. But since i had a small pack with a camera in it, I discarded that idea. Continuing along the coastline, I stumbled upon the Restaurant Rilanda, where the owners were enjoying a snooze in the sun. They were more than happy to rent a kayak, so I was able to make it out to the island after all.</description>
      <content:encoded>During an evening stroll in Saranda, Albania, Leigh and I stopped in a small store, where I started to browse through a book with aerial photos of Albania. A picture of a small island, with a hide-away cove, caught my eye. When I looked up the location of the island, I found it was only a few miles south of Saranda. The next day, I took a taxi to the town of Ksamil and wandered along the waterfront. In late October, it felt deserted. All the beachside restaurants were closed, with beach loungers neatly folded away and the shutters down. I could see the island about a quarter mile away, and I briefly thought about swimming to it. But since i had a small pack with a camera in it, I discarded that idea. Continuing along the coastline, I stumbled upon the Restaurant Rilanda, where the owners were enjoying a snooze in the sun. They were more than happy to rent a kayak, so I was able to make it out to the island after all.</content:encoded>
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      <title>Sunday morning dominoes</title>
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      <description>A group of men gather Sunday morning in Saranda, Albania for a friendly round of dominoes. After I tried out one of the few Albanian words I know (Miremenjes) for good morning, one of the men turned around and told me that the fellow in the checkered jacket, dealing the dominoes and counting the money, is the town's police chief.</description>
      <content:encoded>A group of men gather Sunday morning in Saranda, Albania for a friendly round of dominoes. After I tried out one of the few Albanian words I know (Miremenjes) for good morning, one of the men turned around and told me that the fellow in the checkered jacket, dealing the dominoes and counting the money, is the town's police chief.</content:encoded>
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      <dc:date>2009-10-31T11:28:50Z</dc:date>
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      <title>Fancy ice cream</title>
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      <description>Raindrops plop against the windows of the Number 3 tram as it rolls across the Nibelungen Bridge, spanning the Danube between Linz and Urfahr. We're on our way to the train station, but not without a stop at the Hauptplatz, Linz's under-rated Baroque square that features its very own carillon.&#xD;
A museum of dental history is just one block off the square, and that seems fitting, since everyone around us apparently has a sweet tooth. Despite the persistent drizzle, everyone in sight is licking an ice cream cone. We're not about to fight the flow, so we sit down at the Eis Cafe Garda, serving a rainbow palette of creamy gelato.Ice cream is a social affair here. Many a first date here in Linz features an afternoon sundae on a terrace overlooking the broad river. Underneath the shade of broad-armed chestnut trees, young lovers share their frosty treats. Some of the cafes even offer a sundae called Heisse Liebe (Hot Love), full of chocolate ice cream and coffee.The Garda&amp;nbsp; doesn't just scoop out circular ball of the frozen stuff. The ice-cream menu is thick and glossy, several pages of fanciful concoctions, many shaped to look like savory treats. A "spaghetti Bolognese" dish is made of thin strands of vanilla ice cream strained through a pasta machine, topped with strawberry sauce.We choose a dish called "Spiegeleier," (fried eggs). A pair of poached peach halves serve as yolks, while vanilla ice cream and whipped cream make up the egg white.&#xD;
Delicious!&#xD;
We wash it down with a couple of strong espressos and glass of prosecco while checking our Eurail guide for connections to Ljubljana, the next destination on this Euro-jaunt.</description>
      <content:encoded>Raindrops plop against the windows of the Number 3 tram as it rolls across the Nibelungen Bridge, spanning the Danube between Linz and Urfahr. We're on our way to the train station, but not without a stop at the Hauptplatz, Linz's under-rated Baroque square that features its very own carillon.&#xD;
A museum of dental history is just one block off the square, and that seems fitting, since everyone around us apparently has a sweet tooth. Despite the persistent drizzle, everyone in sight is licking an ice cream cone. We're not about to fight the flow, so we sit down at the Eis Cafe Garda, serving a rainbow palette of creamy gelato.Ice cream is a social affair here. Many a first date here in Linz features an afternoon sundae on a terrace overlooking the broad river. Underneath the shade of broad-armed chestnut trees, young lovers share their frosty treats. Some of the cafes even offer a sundae called Heisse Liebe (Hot Love), full of chocolate ice cream and coffee.The Garda&amp;nbsp; doesn't just scoop out circular ball of the frozen stuff. The ice-cream menu is thick and glossy, several pages of fanciful concoctions, many shaped to look like savory treats. A "spaghetti Bolognese" dish is made of thin strands of vanilla ice cream strained through a pasta machine, topped with strawberry sauce.We choose a dish called "Spiegeleier," (fried eggs). A pair of poached peach halves serve as yolks, while vanilla ice cream and whipped cream make up the egg white.&#xD;
Delicious!&#xD;
We wash it down with a couple of strong espressos and glass of prosecco while checking our Eurail guide for connections to Ljubljana, the next destination on this Euro-jaunt.</content:encoded>
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      <pubDate>Sat, 29 Aug 2009 00:32:14 GMT</pubDate>
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Delicious!&#xD;
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      <title>A waffle quest</title>
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      <description>&amp;nbsp;Our bike marathon on the Dutch island of Texel was fueled by krokets, which seem terribly exotic until you realize that it's creamed mystery meat fried into a ball of breadcrumbs. So on a whim, we head for Bruxelles, via Luxembourg, in search of the ultimate Belgian waffle.On the train, we break out the Eurail map and laugh about our craving. We daydream about a mythical Waffleland theme park, where all the attractions are modeled on the fried treats. Hey, there&amp;rsquo;s a Legoland nearby, so why not waffles? In the meantime, Bruxelles will do as our mythical waffle Shangri-La.Outside Bruxelles central station, drops of rain bead up into translucent pearls on the metallic tables of a street caf&amp;eacute;. The day-long rain has left the city gleaming in the last rays of sunset, brick buildings miraculously lighting up from gray to fiery red, streaks of soot drooping like wet mascara from the facades.An Asian family changes the tire on their rented minivan, using a six pack of Evian water as a makeshift block to raise the wheel off the curb.&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
Within earshot, I hear men on their cellphones, talking in a salad of languages: French, Flemish, Arabic, Russian, German and English. A couple of late-night joints are dishing up fried chicken livers and, yep, more mystery meatballs. All the restaurants are closed. Just like Holland, the kitchens generally shut down at 9 p.m. Even here in the heart of the New Europe, it&amp;rsquo;s tough to find a decent meal after hours. The Belgian Waffle will have to wait until morning.We finally track down the sought-after confection in a cozy joint near the Grande Place. The deluxe waffle comes with scoops of ice cream, fruit compote, whipped cream and syrup, and for dessert, we try some crepes.Just around the corner, Mannequin Pis is&amp;nbsp;cheerfully spurting a steady stream while grinning angelically at the rooftops. Today he is&amp;nbsp;wearing a natty red vest in honor of some ethnic celebration in this multi-ethnic city.Maybe he&amp;rsquo;s making&amp;nbsp;fun of the fact that, if you don&amp;rsquo;t have exact change for the pay toilets, you too will be peeing in the street.Poltiical Notes: Euro-integration born in Bruxelles&amp;nbsp;As a near-constant battleground, Belgium is one of the best examples from what a country stands to gain from following the European Union path of collective security based on freedom, prosperity and integration. As a nation-state, Belgium was created after World War I to be a buffer between France and Germany. The vast military graveyards in the fields of Flanders show how, again and again, from Waterloo to the Ardennes and the Battle of the Bulge, the country was over-run by opposing armies.It&amp;rsquo;s the collective security and growing interdependence that has enabled smaller European countries and cultures to re-establish themselves as distinct entities without threatening an even-smaller neighbor. Brussels has capitalized, literally, by becoming the formal seat of government for an unwieldy but generally well-meaning European Parliament. The country as a whole gains from its crossroads status, growing as a center of trade, culture and politics.&amp;nbsp;Along with the cantankerous parliamentarians, including celebrity athletes like cranky climber Reinhold Messner, the Brussels-based EU presides over a small bureaucratic army that holds massive power through a regulatory scheme. The machinations of the merchant republics like Venice and Genoa, and the petty officialdom of the Hapsburg Empire had nothing on the latest crop of Eurocrats.&amp;nbsp;But it all seems to work, almost. We marvel that buying tickets for subways and trains is easy via automated terminals, and that you can use a cellphone to buy candy from a train station vending machine, but at the same time, you have to have the exact coin to gain access to a public toilet. If the ticket machine can make change, why not a urinal turnstile? Maybe that&amp;rsquo;s what Brussel&amp;rsquo;s iconic Mannekin Pis statue is smirking at about, as he stands eternally relieving himself on a corner in the heart of the city.</description>
      <content:encoded>&amp;nbsp;Our bike marathon on the Dutch island of Texel was fueled by krokets, which seem terribly exotic until you realize that it's creamed mystery meat fried into a ball of breadcrumbs. So on a whim, we head for Bruxelles, via Luxembourg, in search of the ultimate Belgian waffle.On the train, we break out the Eurail map and laugh about our craving. We daydream about a mythical Waffleland theme park, where all the attractions are modeled on the fried treats. Hey, there&amp;rsquo;s a Legoland nearby, so why not waffles? In the meantime, Bruxelles will do as our mythical waffle Shangri-La.Outside Bruxelles central station, drops of rain bead up into translucent pearls on the metallic tables of a street caf&amp;eacute;. The day-long rain has left the city gleaming in the last rays of sunset, brick buildings miraculously lighting up from gray to fiery red, streaks of soot drooping like wet mascara from the facades.An Asian family changes the tire on their rented minivan, using a six pack of Evian water as a makeshift block to raise the wheel off the curb.&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
Within earshot, I hear men on their cellphones, talking in a salad of languages: French, Flemish, Arabic, Russian, German and English. A couple of late-night joints are dishing up fried chicken livers and, yep, more mystery meatballs. All the restaurants are closed. Just like Holland, the kitchens generally shut down at 9 p.m. Even here in the heart of the New Europe, it&amp;rsquo;s tough to find a decent meal after hours. The Belgian Waffle will have to wait until morning.We finally track down the sought-after confection in a cozy joint near the Grande Place. The deluxe waffle comes with scoops of ice cream, fruit compote, whipped cream and syrup, and for dessert, we try some crepes.Just around the corner, Mannequin Pis is&amp;nbsp;cheerfully spurting a steady stream while grinning angelically at the rooftops. Today he is&amp;nbsp;wearing a natty red vest in honor of some ethnic celebration in this multi-ethnic city.Maybe he&amp;rsquo;s making&amp;nbsp;fun of the fact that, if you don&amp;rsquo;t have exact change for the pay toilets, you too will be peeing in the street.Poltiical Notes: Euro-integration born in Bruxelles&amp;nbsp;As a near-constant battleground, Belgium is one of the best examples from what a country stands to gain from following the European Union path of collective security based on freedom, prosperity and integration. As a nation-state, Belgium was created after World War I to be a buffer between France and Germany. The vast military graveyards in the fields of Flanders show how, again and again, from Waterloo to the Ardennes and the Battle of the Bulge, the country was over-run by opposing armies.It&amp;rsquo;s the collective security and growing interdependence that has enabled smaller European countries and cultures to re-establish themselves as distinct entities without threatening an even-smaller neighbor. Brussels has capitalized, literally, by becoming the formal seat of government for an unwieldy but generally well-meaning European Parliament. The country as a whole gains from its crossroads status, growing as a center of trade, culture and politics.&amp;nbsp;Along with the cantankerous parliamentarians, including celebrity athletes like cranky climber Reinhold Messner, the Brussels-based EU presides over a small bureaucratic army that holds massive power through a regulatory scheme. The machinations of the merchant republics like Venice and Genoa, and the petty officialdom of the Hapsburg Empire had nothing on the latest crop of Eurocrats.&amp;nbsp;But it all seems to work, almost. We marvel that buying tickets for subways and trains is easy via automated terminals, and that you can use a cellphone to buy candy from a train station vending machine, but at the same time, you have to have the exact coin to gain access to a public toilet. If the ticket machine can make change, why not a urinal turnstile? Maybe that&amp;rsquo;s what Brussel&amp;rsquo;s iconic Mannekin Pis statue is smirking at about, as he stands eternally relieving himself on a corner in the heart of the city.</content:encoded>
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      <pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2009 23:43:28 GMT</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>bberwyn</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2009-08-28T23:43:28Z</dc:date>
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        <media:description>&amp;nbsp;Our bike marathon on the Dutch island of Texel was fueled by krokets, which seem terribly exotic until you realize that it's creamed mystery meat fried into a ball of breadcrumbs. So on a whim, we head for Bruxelles, via Luxembourg, in search of the ultimate Belgian waffle.On the train, we break out the Eurail map and laugh about our craving. We daydream about a mythical Waffleland theme park, where all the attractions are modeled on the fried treats. Hey, there&amp;rsquo;s a Legoland nearby, so why not waffles? In the meantime, Bruxelles will do as our mythical waffle Shangri-La.Outside Bruxelles central station, drops of rain bead up into translucent pearls on the metallic tables of a street caf&amp;eacute;. The day-long rain has left the city gleaming in the last rays of sunset, brick buildings miraculously lighting up from gray to fiery red, streaks of soot drooping like wet mascara from the facades.An Asian family changes the tire on their rented minivan, using a six pack of Evian water as a makeshift block to raise the wheel off the curb.&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
Within earshot, I hear men on their cellphones, talking in a salad of languages: French, Flemish, Arabic, Russian, German and English. A couple of late-night joints are dishing up fried chicken livers and, yep, more mystery meatballs. All the restaurants are closed. Just like Holland, the kitchens generally shut down at 9 p.m. Even here in the heart of the New Europe, it&amp;rsquo;s tough to find a decent meal after hours. The Belgian Waffle will have to wait until morning.We finally track down the sought-after confection in a cozy joint near the Grande Place. The deluxe waffle comes with scoops of ice cream, fruit compote, whipped cream and syrup, and for dessert, we try some crepes.Just around the corner, Mannequin Pis is&amp;nbsp;cheerfully spurting a steady stream while grinning angelically at the rooftops. Today he is&amp;nbsp;wearing a natty red vest in honor of some ethnic celebration in this multi-ethnic city.Maybe he&amp;rsquo;s making&amp;nbsp;fun of the fact that, if you don&amp;rsquo;t have exact change for the pay toilets, you too will be peeing in the street.Poltiical Notes: Euro-integration born in Bruxelles&amp;nbsp;As a near-constant battleground, Belgium is one of the best examples from what a country stands to gain from following the European Union path of collective security based on freedom, prosperity and integration. As a nation-state, Belgium was created after World War I to be a buffer between France and Germany. The vast military graveyards in the fields of Flanders show how, again and again, from Waterloo to the Ardennes and the Battle of the Bulge, the country was over-run by opposing armies.It&amp;rsquo;s the collective security and growing interdependence that has enabled smaller European countries and cultures to re-establish themselves as distinct entities without threatening an even-smaller neighbor. Brussels has capitalized, literally, by becoming the formal seat of government for an unwieldy but generally well-meaning European Parliament. The country as a whole gains from its crossroads status, growing as a center of trade, culture and politics.&amp;nbsp;Along with the cantankerous parliamentarians, including celebrity athletes like cranky climber Reinhold Messner, the Brussels-based EU presides over a small bureaucratic army that holds massive power through a regulatory scheme. The machinations of the merchant republics like Venice and Genoa, and the petty officialdom of the Hapsburg Empire had nothing on the latest crop of Eurocrats.&amp;nbsp;But it all seems to work, almost. We marvel that buying tickets for subways and trains is easy via automated terminals, and that you can use a cellphone to buy candy from a train station vending machine, but at the same time, you have to have the exact coin to gain access to a public toilet. If the ticket machine can make change, why not a urinal turnstile? Maybe that&amp;rsquo;s what Brussel&amp;rsquo;s iconic Mannekin Pis statue is smirking at about, as he stands eternally relieving himself on a corner in the heart of the city.</media:description>
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      <title>Jamaica Jump</title>
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      <description>Dylan takes the 20-foot plunge from a limestone cliff into the aqua-colored Caribbean at Xtabi Resort in Negril, Jamaica. During a few recent trips to Jamaica, we enjoyed the mellow, family friendly hospitality of the Negril Yoga Center and explored the west end of the island nearby. Xtabi is an upscale hotel with a fine restaurant, but the staff is friendly and welcoming to drop-in visitors, who are allowed to use the swimming and diving platforms to explore the hidden coves and small sea caves at the base of the cliffs.&#xD;
The yoga center offers a variety of rooms and bungalows at reasonable rates, along with drop-in yoga sessions at full retreats. Get more information at http://www.negrilyoga.com/.&#xD;
More info on Xtabi is online at http://www.xtabi-negril.com/welcome.htm.&#xD;
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      <content:encoded>Dylan takes the 20-foot plunge from a limestone cliff into the aqua-colored Caribbean at Xtabi Resort in Negril, Jamaica. During a few recent trips to Jamaica, we enjoyed the mellow, family friendly hospitality of the Negril Yoga Center and explored the west end of the island nearby. Xtabi is an upscale hotel with a fine restaurant, but the staff is friendly and welcoming to drop-in visitors, who are allowed to use the swimming and diving platforms to explore the hidden coves and small sea caves at the base of the cliffs.&#xD;
The yoga center offers a variety of rooms and bungalows at reasonable rates, along with drop-in yoga sessions at full retreats. Get more information at http://www.negrilyoga.com/.&#xD;
More info on Xtabi is online at http://www.xtabi-negril.com/welcome.htm.&#xD;
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      <pubDate>Fri, 28 Aug 2009 16:39:26 GMT</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>bberwyn</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2009-08-24T15:30:06Z</dc:date>
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        <media:description>Dylan takes the 20-foot plunge from a limestone cliff into the aqua-colored Caribbean at Xtabi Resort in Negril, Jamaica. During a few recent trips to Jamaica, we enjoyed the mellow, family friendly hospitality of the Negril Yoga Center and explored the west end of the island nearby. Xtabi is an upscale hotel with a fine restaurant, but the staff is friendly and welcoming to drop-in visitors, who are allowed to use the swimming and diving platforms to explore the hidden coves and small sea caves at the base of the cliffs.&#xD;
The yoga center offers a variety of rooms and bungalows at reasonable rates, along with drop-in yoga sessions at full retreats. Get more information at http://www.negrilyoga.com/.&#xD;
More info on Xtabi is online at http://www.xtabi-negril.com/welcome.htm.&#xD;
 &#xD;
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      <title>Paulet Island</title>
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      <description>Sharing the Paulet Island beach with a solitary skua and a fur seal, three guides from the M/V Professor Molchanof stand ankle-deep in pink penguin guano. A pair of Zodiacs cruise through a maze of icebergs back to the ship, just visible in the distance. The Dutch guides had wanted to climb to the summit of the volcanic island, but Russian Captain Nikolai Parfenyuk was concerned about ice closing in, so he ordered the landing party back to the ship.&#xD;
The Gentoo penguin colony was gone, but the pungent guano was a reminder of their recent presence. Still, the beach was alive with fur seals, blue-eyed shags (the only member of the Cormorant family to range into Antarctica), and even a few ice-loving Adelie penguins.&#xD;
During the landing, we visited the remains of an old stone hut built by Swedish and Norwegian explorers in the early 1900s after their ship was crushed by ice. Twenty men from the Nordenskold expedition spent a long winter on the island eating penguins before being rescued by an Argentine boat the following summer. Only one man died during the winter. His grave, marked by a plain wooden cross and a mound of rocks, is still evident on the beach.&#xD;
Our voyage to Antarctica through the Weddell Sea and around the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the Molchanov was in late February and early March 2009. The well-led trip featured landings and hikes every day, including a spectacular walk over a glacier and along the rim of the Deception Island caldera to visit a huge chinstrap penguin colony.&#xD;
On the 52-passenger Molchanov, it was easy to get to know fellow passengers and the guides, as well as the friendly Russian crew. Leigh and I highly recommend ship. We organized our trip through Oceanwide Expeditions, online at ://www.oceanwide-expeditions.com/.&#xD;
Several passengers on our trip were able to book last-minute passage aboard the Molchanov in Ushuaia, Argentina, just a few days in advance at a significant discount. Of course, there are no guarantees, but several tour operators in Ushuaia said that, late in the season, there often are last-minute berths available.&#xD;
Read more about the trip at this Budget Travel journal: http://mybt.budgettravel.com/_Antarctic-adventure/blog/219657/21864.html.&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;</description>
      <content:encoded>Sharing the Paulet Island beach with a solitary skua and a fur seal, three guides from the M/V Professor Molchanof stand ankle-deep in pink penguin guano. A pair of Zodiacs cruise through a maze of icebergs back to the ship, just visible in the distance. The Dutch guides had wanted to climb to the summit of the volcanic island, but Russian Captain Nikolai Parfenyuk was concerned about ice closing in, so he ordered the landing party back to the ship.&#xD;
The Gentoo penguin colony was gone, but the pungent guano was a reminder of their recent presence. Still, the beach was alive with fur seals, blue-eyed shags (the only member of the Cormorant family to range into Antarctica), and even a few ice-loving Adelie penguins.&#xD;
During the landing, we visited the remains of an old stone hut built by Swedish and Norwegian explorers in the early 1900s after their ship was crushed by ice. Twenty men from the Nordenskold expedition spent a long winter on the island eating penguins before being rescued by an Argentine boat the following summer. Only one man died during the winter. His grave, marked by a plain wooden cross and a mound of rocks, is still evident on the beach.&#xD;
Our voyage to Antarctica through the Weddell Sea and around the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the Molchanov was in late February and early March 2009. The well-led trip featured landings and hikes every day, including a spectacular walk over a glacier and along the rim of the Deception Island caldera to visit a huge chinstrap penguin colony.&#xD;
On the 52-passenger Molchanov, it was easy to get to know fellow passengers and the guides, as well as the friendly Russian crew. Leigh and I highly recommend ship. We organized our trip through Oceanwide Expeditions, online at ://www.oceanwide-expeditions.com/.&#xD;
Several passengers on our trip were able to book last-minute passage aboard the Molchanov in Ushuaia, Argentina, just a few days in advance at a significant discount. Of course, there are no guarantees, but several tour operators in Ushuaia said that, late in the season, there often are last-minute berths available.&#xD;
Read more about the trip at this Budget Travel journal: http://mybt.budgettravel.com/_Antarctic-adventure/blog/219657/21864.html.&#xD;
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      <pubDate>Sat, 01 Aug 2009 06:23:02 GMT</pubDate>
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      <dc:creator>bberwyn</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2009-08-01T06:23:02Z</dc:date>
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        <media:description>Sharing the Paulet Island beach with a solitary skua and a fur seal, three guides from the M/V Professor Molchanof stand ankle-deep in pink penguin guano. A pair of Zodiacs cruise through a maze of icebergs back to the ship, just visible in the distance. The Dutch guides had wanted to climb to the summit of the volcanic island, but Russian Captain Nikolai Parfenyuk was concerned about ice closing in, so he ordered the landing party back to the ship.&#xD;
The Gentoo penguin colony was gone, but the pungent guano was a reminder of their recent presence. Still, the beach was alive with fur seals, blue-eyed shags (the only member of the Cormorant family to range into Antarctica), and even a few ice-loving Adelie penguins.&#xD;
During the landing, we visited the remains of an old stone hut built by Swedish and Norwegian explorers in the early 1900s after their ship was crushed by ice. Twenty men from the Nordenskold expedition spent a long winter on the island eating penguins before being rescued by an Argentine boat the following summer. Only one man died during the winter. His grave, marked by a plain wooden cross and a mound of rocks, is still evident on the beach.&#xD;
Our voyage to Antarctica through the Weddell Sea and around the Antarctic Peninsula aboard the Molchanov was in late February and early March 2009. The well-led trip featured landings and hikes every day, including a spectacular walk over a glacier and along the rim of the Deception Island caldera to visit a huge chinstrap penguin colony.&#xD;
On the 52-passenger Molchanov, it was easy to get to know fellow passengers and the guides, as well as the friendly Russian crew. Leigh and I highly recommend ship. We organized our trip through Oceanwide Expeditions, online at ://www.oceanwide-expeditions.com/.&#xD;
Several passengers on our trip were able to book last-minute passage aboard the Molchanov in Ushuaia, Argentina, just a few days in advance at a significant discount. Of course, there are no guarantees, but several tour operators in Ushuaia said that, late in the season, there often are last-minute berths available.&#xD;
Read more about the trip at this Budget Travel journal: http://mybt.budgettravel.com/_Antarctic-adventure/blog/219657/21864.html.&#xD;
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      <title>Mayfield Falls, Jamaica</title>
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      <description>Jamaican guide Ron Williams (standing) and Daichi Yuuta share a quiet moment in a pool along the crystal-clear Mayfield River in western Jamaica. The Mayfield River runs through the Dolphin Head Mountains, about a two-hour drive from Negril. As far as we could tell, the area is managed by a local grassroots co-op, staffed by friendly young guides with a good knowledge of local plants and animals.The river and falls are touted as an eco-destination, and the area seems well cared-for.&#xD;
The tour includes plenty of time for swimming and jumping in the heavenly blue waters of the river. My son especially enjoyed hanging upside-down, sloth-like, from trees fallen across the stream, then dropping in. We didn't find the underwater cave mentioned in the Frommer's online guide, but highly recommend the trip as a day away from the beach if you're spending time in the Negril area. Visit the Frommer's site at http://bit.ly/10PRbt for more info on the area.&#xD;
During a few recent trips to the Caribbean Island, my son and I have stayed at the Negril Yoga Center (www.negrilyoga.com), a quiet, family friendly oasis in the popular resort town. Along with drop-in yoga classes and special workshops, the yoga center features cozy and clean accommodations and terrific food, including tasty Johnny Cakes and the best smoothies ever.&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;</description>
      <content:encoded>Jamaican guide Ron Williams (standing) and Daichi Yuuta share a quiet moment in a pool along the crystal-clear Mayfield River in western Jamaica. The Mayfield River runs through the Dolphin Head Mountains, about a two-hour drive from Negril. As far as we could tell, the area is managed by a local grassroots co-op, staffed by friendly young guides with a good knowledge of local plants and animals.The river and falls are touted as an eco-destination, and the area seems well cared-for.&#xD;
The tour includes plenty of time for swimming and jumping in the heavenly blue waters of the river. My son especially enjoyed hanging upside-down, sloth-like, from trees fallen across the stream, then dropping in. We didn't find the underwater cave mentioned in the Frommer's online guide, but highly recommend the trip as a day away from the beach if you're spending time in the Negril area. Visit the Frommer's site at http://bit.ly/10PRbt for more info on the area.&#xD;
During a few recent trips to the Caribbean Island, my son and I have stayed at the Negril Yoga Center (www.negrilyoga.com), a quiet, family friendly oasis in the popular resort town. Along with drop-in yoga classes and special workshops, the yoga center features cozy and clean accommodations and terrific food, including tasty Johnny Cakes and the best smoothies ever.&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
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      <dc:creator>bberwyn</dc:creator>
      <dc:date>2009-07-27T19:10:48Z</dc:date>
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        <media:description>Jamaican guide Ron Williams (standing) and Daichi Yuuta share a quiet moment in a pool along the crystal-clear Mayfield River in western Jamaica. The Mayfield River runs through the Dolphin Head Mountains, about a two-hour drive from Negril. As far as we could tell, the area is managed by a local grassroots co-op, staffed by friendly young guides with a good knowledge of local plants and animals.The river and falls are touted as an eco-destination, and the area seems well cared-for.&#xD;
The tour includes plenty of time for swimming and jumping in the heavenly blue waters of the river. My son especially enjoyed hanging upside-down, sloth-like, from trees fallen across the stream, then dropping in. We didn't find the underwater cave mentioned in the Frommer's online guide, but highly recommend the trip as a day away from the beach if you're spending time in the Negril area. Visit the Frommer's site at http://bit.ly/10PRbt for more info on the area.&#xD;
During a few recent trips to the Caribbean Island, my son and I have stayed at the Negril Yoga Center (www.negrilyoga.com), a quiet, family friendly oasis in the popular resort town. Along with drop-in yoga classes and special workshops, the yoga center features cozy and clean accommodations and terrific food, including tasty Johnny Cakes and the best smoothies ever.&#xD;
&amp;nbsp;&#xD;
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While a thunderstorm builds over the Alps, a group of kids plays on the beach of the Mondsee, one of the sparkling alpine lakes In the Salzkammergut region of Austria. During our travels in this part of the world, my son and I always visit the Alpenseebad, a family friendly water park on the shore of the lake. The park features slides, floating rafts, soft grass for Frisbee and the big diving board shown in the photo. Most importantly, the vibe is relaxed and the lifeguards let the kids play (within reason) without getting too heavy handed about rules.&#xD;
The Seepension Hemetsberger (www.mondseeschifffahrt.com/) is a friendly Austrian inn located next to the water park. The owners are also boatbuilders and some of the guest rooms are directly above their watery "garage" where they build and store some of their boats. They also rent sailboats and electric boats and operate several of the larger tour boats that circle the lake and visit some of the other small villages.&#xD;
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While a thunderstorm builds over the Alps, a group of kids plays on the beach of the Mondsee, one of the sparkling alpine lakes In the Salzkammergut region of Austria. During our travels in this part of the world, my son and I always visit the Alpenseebad, a family friendly water park on the shore of the lake. The park features slides, floating rafts, soft grass for Frisbee and the big diving board shown in the photo. Most importantly, the vibe is relaxed and the lifeguards let the kids play (within reason) without getting too heavy handed about rules.&#xD;
The Seepension Hemetsberger (www.mondseeschifffahrt.com/) is a friendly Austrian inn located next to the water park. The owners are also boatbuilders and some of the guest rooms are directly above their watery "garage" where they build and store some of their boats. They also rent sailboats and electric boats and operate several of the larger tour boats that circle the lake and visit some of the other small villages.&#xD;
Nearby is a limnological institute dedicated to study of lake ecology. During the summer, the research facility holds an open house with cool activities for kids. Check out some info at www.oeaw.ac.at/limno/.&#xD;
Mondsee is not far from the World Heritage site of Hallstatt, one of the most important repositories of Celtic archaeology in Europe. General Mondsee information is available at www.frommers.com/destinations/mondsee/.&#xD;
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While a thunderstorm builds over the Alps, a group of kids plays on the beach of the Mondsee, one of the sparkling alpine lakes In the Salzkammergut region of Austria. During our travels in this part of the world, my son and I always visit the Alpenseebad, a family friendly water park on the shore of the lake. The park features slides, floating rafts, soft grass for Frisbee and the big diving board shown in the photo. Most importantly, the vibe is relaxed and the lifeguards let the kids play (within reason) without getting too heavy handed about rules.&#xD;
The Seepension Hemetsberger (www.mondseeschifffahrt.com/) is a friendly Austrian inn located next to the water park. The owners are also boatbuilders and some of the guest rooms are directly above their watery "garage" where they build and store some of their boats. They also rent sailboats and electric boats and operate several of the larger tour boats that circle the lake and visit some of the other small villages.&#xD;
Nearby is a limnological institute dedicated to study of lake ecology. During the summer, the research facility holds an open house with cool activities for kids. Check out some info at www.oeaw.ac.at/limno/.&#xD;
Mondsee is not far from the World Heritage site of Hallstatt, one of the most important repositories of Celtic archaeology in Europe. General Mondsee information is available at www.frommers.com/destinations/mondsee/.&#xD;
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      <description>Leigh celebrates her 39th birthday on Belize, enjoying a view out over the Caribbean from a rusty beach cruiser. This photo has been altered by Photoshop. I was experimenting with the program and while trying out different tools, I saw this version of the image, which to me invokes the dreamy quality of that day.</description>
      <content:encoded>Leigh celebrates her 39th birthday on Belize, enjoying a view out over the Caribbean from a rusty beach cruiser. This photo has been altered by Photoshop. I was experimenting with the program and while trying out different tools, I saw this version of the image, which to me invokes the dreamy quality of that day.</content:encoded>
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      <description>My girlfriend, Leigh, steps ashore at Brown Bluff, along the Antarctic Peninsula in early March. holding up five fingers and two thumbs to celebrate the milestone of visiting all seven continents. Leigh and I were passengers aboard the M/V Professor Molchanov on a well-run sailing and hiking voyage around the peninsula, into the Weddell Sea and to several islands in the South Shetlands group. At Brown Bluff, we watched fur seals lounging on ice floes, and a rookery of molting Gentoo Penguins. We enjoyed sunshine and 40 degree temperatures, and on our way back to the ship we cruised past fantastic arched icebergs.</description>
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      <description>At the pier in Ushuaia, Argentina, the M/V Professor Molchanov (blue hull) is dwarfed by a pair of over-sized cruise ships. We had just left the Molchanov after a 10-day voyage around the Antarctic Peninsula and the Weddell Sea. Seeing the floating hotels made us realize how lucky we were to experience and enjoy an ocean journey on a ship the size of the Molchanov, with only 52 passengers.</description>
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