While living in Madrid, Spain I went on a 10 day trip through Italy with some friends who were also living in various cities in Europe. This is the story of how we fit 5 cities in Italy into a 10 day trip. Obviously I would have preferred to spend more time in each of the cities (except maybe Rome) but here's how to do it on a time crunch.
In Rome we were hosted by a friend who was living there who showed us all of the historical sites of this city, including: the Coliseum, the forum, the Pantheon, the Spanish steps and the Trevi Fountain. She also took us into a church that she had visited with her architecture class that is painted to look like it has a dome when it actually doesn't. So when you walk in and look up it looks like a dome, but when you walk directly beneath it the perspective is skewed. It is hard to explain, but very cool to see. I was glad that she showed us that, since we never would have gone in there on our own. She also took us to the neighborhood called Trastevere for a great pizza dinner and a look around at the flea market. It was great to have someone who knew the layout of the city to take us around and keep us from getting lost. However, for some of the sites (like Palatine Hill) I think it would have been advisable to hire a guide who knows the history. I spoke to other travelers who hired guides and they knew so much more about the sites, whereas we had only seen them.
The next morning we got up early to get in line at the Vatican Museum. Apparently we didn't get up early enough though, since we had to wait for 3 hours. But at least we got in at all. The whole
museum was great, but obviously the Sistine Chapel was the highlight. We spent a long time in there looking at each of the panels. But I thought that the atmosphere was kind of ruined by the guards. Every few minutes they would clap their hands loudly and yell at everyone to stop talking and stop taking pictures. After that we grabbed some lunch then got in line for St Peters. Thankfully that line was not nearly as long since it was incredibly hot by that time. St Peters was also incredibly beautiful. We used a guidebook that we had to explain many of the things in the cathedral, like the tradition of rubbing the foot of the statue of St Peter.
On Sunday we went inside the Coliseum and Palatine Hill, which were really cool to see and imagine what it was like during the height of the Roman empire. We then walked to a flea market that we heard was supposed to be cool, but really it was just more of the junk that is sold on pretty much every street. But on the way we got to walk past Circus Maximus, and through some nice residential areas. That night we were exhausted from the insanity of Rome, so we cooked dinner in the hostel and relaxed.
The next morning we got an early train to Florence. After checking in to our hostel we headed back to the train station to go to Siena. This ended up being one of my favorite cities because it was beautiful, but most importantly not crawling with tourists. I definitely enjoy the smaller cities much more. In Siena we saw the duomo, San Domenico church, and the sanctuary of St Catherine, which contains her actual head and finger preserved in glass cases! That was pretty disgusting and also a strange thing to have in a church, I thought. We then climbed the city tower for a beautiful view of the city and beyond. Then we sat in the main square, Il Campo for a while to just people watch and enjoy. For dinner we went to a little hole in the wall restaurant where we ordered what the waiter suggested, which was the typical pasta of Siena, pisci, and a meat and potatoes dish, which were both incredibly good and cheap. Then we caught the last bus back to Florence.
While in Florence we visited the duomo (which I thought wasn't as good as the duomo in Siena) and then walked over to the Pitti Palace. We had a picnic outside, then went into the gardens which were absolutely beautiful. The views of Tuscany were unbeatable. We spent most of the afternoon exploring the gardens, then got some excellent gelato.
On our last day in Florence we went to the two famous museums, the Accademia and
the Uffizi. The Accademia is where Michelangelo´s David is, and it was amazing to see. I never realized how huge the sculpture is! The rest of the works there were not that interesting though. The Uffizi is considered to be one of the best collections of Renaissance paintings in the world. And I'm sure that I would have loved it if I were a fan of Renaissance art, but I actually found it to be rather monotonous.
To celebrate the twentieth anniversary of our first date, my husband and I took a trip we'd long talked about but never gotten around to planning - a journey to Italy. It was difficult deciding which areas of Italy to see, but we finally chose the Cinque Terre, Tuscany, and Rome. To say our trip surpassed my wildest dreams would be an understatement. Welcome to our Italian adventure!
After flying into Milan, it took several trains to reach the Cinque Terre (which means Five Lands), but it was completely worth venturing off the beaten path to visit this quaint, charming, and friendly coastal area of Italy. The Cinque Terre consists of five small hillside towns that each looks like it's literally spilling into the ocean. The towns have all been in existence since Medieval times and have the ancient lookout towers and historic stone churches to prove it. The shops are quaint, the people are friendly, and the views are breathtaking. We especially enjoyed just roaming the streets, as well as the twisting stairs and alleyways (which also qualify as streets in a place as old as the towns of the Cinque Terre,) taking pictures of lovely archways and windows, and watching the locals hanging their laundry out as they conversed from window to window.
Getting Around the Cinque Terre
Don't expect taxis here, and whatever you do, don't plan on renting a car. In the Cinque Terre, there are three options: trains, hiking, and boats (although boats may not be available year round.) Oceanside trails passing through olive groves and terraced vineyards connect the five towns of Monterossa, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and are a lovely way to travel - but be warned, the trails get progressively more difficult the farther north you go. So, based on your hiking ability, we advise hiking between the more southern towns and taking the train between the northern towns. We used the low-priced Cinque Terre Treno Card, which admits you to both the trails and the trains. And we sometimes found the train schedules difficult to follow in the Cinque Terre, so when arriving at the station, we advise asking a clerk when the next train to your destination is due. Overall, the trains are a pretty easy way to hop between the towns if you choose not to hike or tire of it.
Where To Stay in the Cinque Terre 
We chose to make the town of Manarola our home base. It's the least touristy of the towns and we found our hotel, the Ca' d'Andrean simple but perfect for our stay. It's a steep walk up the hill with luggage, but worth it for the view of lemon trees and terraced hillside gardens out our shuttered window each morning. The staff here was especially helpful in mapping out future parts of our trip. For nice, clean accommodations, we highly recommend the Hotel Ca' d'Andrean.
While Manarola was our favorite, when we visit the Cinque Terre again, we will gladly consider staying in any of the other towns.
Highlights of our Time in the Cinque Terre
We found something truly unique and delightful at every turn in the Cinque Terre, so it's hard to narrow it down, but here are a few faves:
Cinque Terre Fun Facts
Finding Romance in the Cinque Terre
Romance was pretty much everywhere here, but here are a few tips for romantic moments with your significant other:
If you want to stop and smell the roses - or the sweet scents of lemon trees and lavender in the air - schedule some time for the Cinque Terre in your trip to Italy. We spent only two and a half days there and wished we'd had more time to simply soak up the slow-paced seaside charm of this traditional slice of Italy. Italian charm at its best.
Under the Tuscan Sun
From the Cinque Terre, we took the train to LaSpezia, where we rented a car. Warning: Driving a car in any sizable Italian city is a challenge when you can't read the signs and don't know the general rules and customs of the road. But once you get out of the city into more rural areas, driving is fine.
Our plan to drive through Tuscany, hitting as many hill towns as possible along the way, worked out well. We spent two days meandering the twisting roads across rolling gold and green hills, stopping to soak up Medieval history along the way. It was amazing to be driving along and suddenly see an ancient fortified city appear in the distance.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
We made our home base at the Castel Bigossi, a lovely thousand-year-old castle in the heart of Tuscany near the fort town of Monteriggioni. It was off the beaten path, but we enjoyed the drive through the countryside, dotted with still more historic towns, each time we returned there. The exterior and grounds of the Castel Bigossi were lovely - the perfect Tuscan postcard - and the staff was friendly, talkative, and helpful. The interior was an unusual mix of modernity (spiral staircases and an elevator) and history (ancient wood beams on the ceiling of our bedroom) and all the rooms in the castel are spacious suites - more room than we needed, but we didn't mind. This would be a great place to stay for a longer visit than the two nights we spent there.
Other thoughts on accommodations: Tuscany also boasts many agriturismos - these are working farms that also provide bed-and-breakfast type accommodations. And if you're more of a city person, all the hill towns offer rooms, as well.
Getting Around Tuscany by Car
Like I said above, once you're away from traffic, driving is a breeze, but be warned: Italian street signs and American street signs differ greatly. In Italy, roads are not marked with any sort of name or number, so it's hard to tell where you are most of the time, even when following a map. You are instead guided by arrows that point the way to the nearest town in any direction, and these tend to appear in groups at the frequent roundabouts.
Also, be prepared for crazy drivers who will merrily pass on blind curves and motorcycle riders who consider it perfectly acceptable to pass between two cars without a lane. Our advice: Drive safely and normally, but be on guard.
The Tuscan landscape is dotted with lots of Medieval hill towns, each with its own personality. Meandering through these places was fascinating not only because we were walking streets and seeing buildings that have been there for nearly a thousand years, but also because these are all still thriving communities where people live and work. Wandering the stone streets and piazzas, I expected to see knights in shining armor come riding up on horseback any minute.
It would be difficult to see all the hill towns in the region (yes, there are that many,) so we picked a few that sounded especially appealing based on guidebooks and advice from our hotel staff. A few of our favorites were:
Note: As hill towns go, Siena is the largest in the region and pretty much considered a must-see. Personally, we were disappointed by how modern and commercialized even the historic part of town is (Foot Lockers and other American mall-type stores lined the stone streets.) But it's still worth a stop for the stunning Duomo, dating from 1215, and the huge Piazza Il Campo where a wild, no-rules horse race is run every July and August.
But Back to the Rolling Tuscan Hillsides 
We made a small project out of locating some of the best-known postcard views of Tuscany's cypress-lined roads - a task made more difficult by the lack of road signs. However, before leaving home, we Googled on the topic and found other travelers' notes on how to reach some of these scenic spots. Finding them felt like a special victory! But with or without them, we came home with countless pictures of fields teeming with red poppies, villas flanked by vineyards, and some lovely cypress-lined roads we stumbled across on our own.
Note: As we traveled the winding roads that criss-cross Tuscany, we were kept company by the abundance of American music on the radio - everything from Dionne Warwick to Bruce Springsteen to Green Day.
Finding Romance in Tuscany
Romance is pretty easy to find in Tuscany, too, but here are some recommendations:
Tuscany is a must-see for those who enjoy lovely, rolling landscapes. The rich Medieval history and striking hill towns are wonderful perks to this region teeming with romantic ambience.
All Roads Lead to Rome
All roads may lead to Rome, but here's a tip: leave your rental car at the airport and take the train into the city. Even that was a bit of a challenge - remember, Italians don't seem to value signage as much as we do in America - but it was still by far the best choice.
You can look at Rome in two ways: it's a zoo or it's a party. Choose the party attitude and you'll have a much better time. This large, busy city seemed to have as many pedestrians as cars, and it was usually unclear who had the right of way, especially on small streets left over from older times.
Getting Around Rome
To walk or take the train around town? It's a toss-up. Rome is a walking city, but things are often farther away than they appear and you can put many a mile on your sneakers by day's end. On the other hand, some of the subway terminals were confusing to navigate and had broken ticket machines, or they were far enough out of the way that it just seemed simpler to walk.
The streets are confusing - remember, this is a very old city, full of twists and turns. Our advice: Follow the signs toward major landmarks and don't be frustrated if you get lost. On one particular evening, after listening to street musicians for a while at the popular Piazza Navonna, we started the twisting trek toward our hotel, following signs and making good progress - we thought - until, about fifteen minutes later, we emerged right back onto the Piazza Navonna. We just looked at each other and cracked up laughing.
Where to Stay
We made our home in Rome the LaResidenzia Hotel, near the Via Venetta, a major thoroughfare. Despite the fact that two lap dance clubs sit directly across the street from the hotel, we were very happy with our choice - which is to say we never really saw any traffic at the clubs and they seemed very quiet. Like our other Italian accommodations, the staff was knowledgeable and friendly. Sitting areas in the lobby were spacious and elegant, our room was nice with lots of storage and a turn-down service, and a pretty good breakfast buffet was included in the price of the room.
Ancient Rome - Walking Through History 
If you're a history lover, this is why you're here. We loved the Colesseum and the Forum, as well as Palatine Hill (where many Roman rulers built their palaces.) Our advice: It's worth it to pay for the tours here. Not only do you get good, interesting information along the way, if you enter with a tour, you bypass the long lines to get in.
We spent a couple of hours roaming around the Colesseum, and more time outside, just taking pictures and enjoying the ambience of the area. As this was a sight I'd only dreamed of seeing, it felt almost surreal to actually be there. I had the same reaction to the Roman Forum and enjoyed knowing I was walking the same paths Julius Caesar and so many other historic figures had traveled. I found myself wanting to take a picture at every step to be sure I captured it all, and I truly felt the impact of being in the cradle of modern Western civilization.
Roaming Around Rome
Of course, there's much more to see here than just the ancient ruins. We enjoyed sitting on the Spanish steps, hanging out at the Trevi Fountain, touring the Pantheon (an amazing piece of ancient architecture,) and taking in the views from the Victor Immanuel Monument (although not as famous as some stops in Rome, you can't miss it on your way to the Colesseum - it's an enormous building that looks like a giant wedding cake.)
Rome is filled with countless piazzas - or town squares - both great and small, and each has it's own personality. Some are large, sporting numerous cafes, shops, fountains, and street artists, while others are smaller and less busy. It was fun to be walking along a narrow street and suddenly exit into another new piazza and see what it had to offer.
Adventures at the Vatican
How many people can say they've been kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica? I don't know, but we are now among that number. More to come on that in a moment.
First, some facts. This is another place where it's wise to pay extra and enter with a tour group - it cut our wait considerably and we truly got a lot out of the tour. Also, you must where clothing that covers your shoulders and knees to be admitted to St. Peter's Basilica.
Our tour covered St. Peter's Square, the Basilica, and the Vatican museum, including the Sistine Chapel. Upon entering the Basilica, we'd barely gotten started when an angry man approached our tour guide and began yelling at her in Italian. She reported that we were being thrown out because he didn't believe we were a real tour group and that she'd bring us back later. Weird but true, and we never did really understand what happened there. But on with the show.
We were, honestly, a little let down by the Sistine Chapel, which I'd long looked forward to seeing. It's an amazing piece of art, yes, but the ceiling is higher than I'd envisioned, so it's really pretty difficult to see. The whole room was packed with people craning their necks to try to take it in, which made everyone prone to bumping into each other. Plus you can't take pictures (understandable) and you can't talk (less understandable.)
After the chapel, it was back to the church, but we had to pretend we were not a tour group. (Again, confusing, I know.) But we enjoyed the un-tour of the basilica and were taken aback by the scope and size. Particularly notable items in the church: the famous Pieta by Michelangelo, the enormous canopy marking the (official but who knows) burial spot of St. Peter, and a statue of St. Peter to which, tradition holds, one should hold onto the toe, make three wishes, and they will come true.
One nice thing about being kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica: when we returned, hours had passed, and the sun shone through small windows in the dome, casting a heavenly glow on the floor, which made for amazing photos.
A Few Tips for Your Time in Rome
Finding Romance in Rome
Rome is busier and a bit more challenging in ways, but you still need not look far for romance here:
Ah, Rome. Two-thousand years of history and culture and architecture. It's a lot to take in, but it would be a crime to visit Italy without fully embracing it's exciting, bustling capital.
Ciao!
We travel a lot, but our trip to Italy was truly the romantic adventure of a lifetime.
Final tip: Take your time exploring romantic Italy, and eat a lot of gelato because it's just not as good at home, no matter what anyone says.
My husband and I spent the month of May in Italy. Being of Italian decent I was truly excited but the fact that I had done lots of geneology work and had found the village where my grandmother was born was an added bonus. Before leaving the States, I made arrangements and hired an English speaking driver and a car to take me to my village in the small commune called Albano de Lucania.
We decided to do two tours with Cosmos. The first tour started and ended in Rome. W
hat a magical city!! I could spend many days there and still be fascinated. Such history. It is amazing to stand inside the Colosseum after viewing it so often in various movies. We did all the touristy things, i.e. The Vatican, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Square and the Roman Forum.
We moved South and visited Naples. At this point, our driver was to pick us up for the 2 1/2 hour drive to Albano. He was terrific...almost as excited as I was at the prospect of visiting the village. The people at the municipal building went our of their way to help me. I give them the street
address and they brought me to the small building where my grandmother was born. I was overwhelmed!!!! When we returned to the municipal building, I received another amazing piece of
information. They told me that I had cousins living in the next town and that they had called them and told them we would be going to see them. We drove to this town called Vaglio and we were greeted by these wonderful people. They couldn't have been nicer and they made us feel welcome in their home. It was truly a marvelous day for me and for them also as the tears flowed from us all. Unfortunately we had to leave, but we have been in touch since then.
Italy is intriging. There are so many marvelous sights to see. Sorrento, Pompeii with its preserved homes. Our overnight cruise to Palermo and the Valley of Temples in Agri
gento. Then to Syracuse to the 5th century BC Greek Theatre and to Taormina. What a beautiful place. High up on a mountain top with spectacular views.
It would take pages for me to tell you everything about the places we visited and the wonderful Italian people that we met everywhere. Places like Agrigento, Syracuse, Matera and wonderful Alberobello with their unique cone shaped homes called Trulli.
We ended the first tour in Rome and visited the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and of course did lots of shopping. Then onward to Pisa and the Leaning Tower and Florence to visit the amazing statue of David.
Next we were on our way to Milan, Lugano and Lake Maggiore. This area is so beautiful, it is hard to put into words. We visited Isola Bella, a privately owned Island with a barque palace and gardens full of peacocks.
Saying goodbye to Lake Maggiore, we headed to Verona and after that to Venice. Yes, it is as beautifu
l as they say. More so perhaps. St. Marks Square, the Doges' Palance and of course the famous Bridge of Sighs. We couldn't miss the Murano Glass blowers either as well as lunch at Harry's Restaurant and my favorite, our gondola ride!
We stopped in Ravenna and then to Assisi. Since we had missed the excursion to Capri (that was the day I found my relatives) we had another opportunity to visit that wonderful Isle and to spend another night in Sorrento, one of my many favorite cities.
On the way back to Rome we visited the Abbey of Montecassino which was another wonderous place.
Condensing a month into this short description is no easy task. I am sure many folks have gone to Italy and enjoyed it as much as we did, but the extra bonus of seeing the home of your grandmother and finding cousins to boot, cannot be beaten. So we said "Arrivederci Roma" for now. I do expect to return one day. After all, I threw my coins in the fountain!!
My boyfriend and I just came back from our one week trip to Italy (October 13-20) to Rome, Florence, and Venice and we would love to share our experiences.
Rome:
Day 1
We arrived in Rome on Sunday October 14 in the early afternoon. From the airport you can buy an express ticket that takes you directly to Termini Train station for $11 euros. No one even checked our ticket on board (probably because it was a Sunday). Termini is only a 30 minute ride from the airport and our hotel was directly across (Hotel Corot-see my review). We decided to go to the Coliseum around 3:30pm and the public transportation is very convenient and you can take the B line directly to the Coliseum. The line was not too long as it was about to close within an hour and one ticket is good for both the Coliseum and for Palantine Hill until 1:30pm of the next day. After the Coliseum, we walked over to the Pantheon square and then walked over to Piazza Navona to eat dinner. I agree with all the other members who have written on this particular topic, please do yourself a favor and do not eat at any place that has a "Menu Tourista" or has English subtitles in the Menu. During our stay in Rome, we ate around all the touristy areas, Piazza Popolo, Pantheon, etc..and we were disappointed with the quality of the food (Italian food in the States tasted better than the food that we had there!). After dinner we headed over to the crowded Trevi Fountain which was crowded with tourist even at 11pm at night but it made it sort of festive. We finished the night off with some gelato at a local shop near our hotel next to the Termini station.
Day 2
Day 2 started off seemingly well for us as we headed over to the Palantine Hill, Circus Maximus, and the Forum ruins. Because we headed over there around 8am, we beat the crowd and it was very peaceful and a great way to see the sights. Unfortunately, as we were riding on the Metro to our next destination, we got pickpocketed! I urge everyone to be very careful! It happened in an instance! We were shoved into the metro and these teenage girls used this distraction to take my boyfriend wallet's which contained a lot of money! When we went to the American Express to pick up a temporary card, 3 other people in line told me that they were pickpocketed or had their purses stolen that morning as well, so be very very careful when you are there in Italy, I cannot stress that enough! Despite the stress and the loss of our money =( we tried to enjoy the rest of Rome. We walked to the Vatican (the line was extremely long and somehow we were lucky enough to be swept in with some of the other tourist, but go early or go late to the Vatican City since St Peter's basilica and the Vatican Museums are a must when you are in Rome. We strolled along the river passing Castel D' St. Angelo (closed on Mondays) followed by a coffee break at a sidewalk cafe at the Piazza Poppolo. There's high retail shopping near the Spanish Steps with Gucci, LV, Dior boutiques etc. but we got there when the stores were already closed. We ate dinner near the Pantheon at a cafe with lots of people which we thought would be a good indicator that the food would be good but it turns out that most of the diners were also fellow tourists and the food was not that great. We finished the night by walking over to the Spanish Steps (crowded at all hours of the day) and the Trevi Fountain and then taking a nice stroll back to Termini.
Tips for Rome:
*Watch out for your personal belongings! Use a money belt, keep your money stored in different places, keep your hand on your money/wallet at all times!
*Visit the Coliseum/Palentine Hill early in the morning to avoid the crowds
*Do not eat at the touristy spots! Do your research to find good restaurants, ask for recommendations, or wander away from the touristy restaurants to get good fare.
*Note that the line for the Vatican Museums is probably long at all hours of the day.
Florence:
Day 3
We took the train to Florence from Rome and it was a very enjoyable 1.5 hour ride with great views of the countryside. We arrived in Florence and immediately loved it. There was a feeling of tranquility as soon as we got there; drastically different from the crazy hustle/bustle of Rome. Our hotel, the La Fortezza (separate review) was only a 15 minute ride from the station and we loved our little hotel. After checking in and dropping off our things, we started to explore the city of Florence. It's a charming city and the people seemed friendlier than those in Rome. We pre-booked our tickets to the Uffizi gallery for $3 more (highly suggested) and bypassed the huge line. I enjoyed viewing all of the different works and my favorite was Botticelli's Spring. After the Uffizi gallery, we had snacks and rested at the Piazza de la Signoria before walking over to the Duomo and climbing up the 436 steps to get a wonderful bird's eye view of the city of Florence. After climbing down the Duomo we walked over to the Ponte Vecchio to catch the sunset over the bridge. For dinner, we ate at La Ghiribelini (recommended by fellow members) and we had our first delicious meal in Italy! We had pizza and two pastas and everything was great! The restaurant is away from the touristy sights but well worth the walk to.
Day 4
Early reservations to the Accadamia got us up and out of the hotel at 8:00am. Michelangelo's David is magnificent. How could a statute be so universally appealing? I thought the same thing until I saw it, there's no other way to explain it, you just have to see it in person to truly grasp the beauty, other people's pictures are not going to cut it. After the Accadamia we walked over to the Medici Chapels and to the Mercaceria where the indoor market sold meats, cheeses, and fresh fruits and vegetables. We then sauntered past the San Lorenzo marketplace with its leather goods and cashmere pashminas. We crossed the Ponte Vecchio to Oltrano and spent all afternoon at the Boboli Gardens and museums. The place is huge! We spent hours just looking at the exhibits, walking through the garden, and taking a much needed nap on the grass and near the fountains. To catch the sunset, we walked over to the Piazza Michelangelo and climbed up the hill to see a wonderful night view of Florence. After making our way back across the Ponte Vecchio, we had dinner at Leo's in St. Croce which was also another lovely authentic Italian meal. We attempted to go to the famous Harry's Bar but when we got there it was quiet and there was no jazz music (maybe they only play it on certain days?) so we walked along the river and stopped by a bar to get some late night dessert and expresso before going home.
Tips for Florence:
*Reserve your tickets in advance for the Uffizi and Accadamia! You pay $3 more for each ticket but it's worth it not to have to wait in line when you are there! David is a must see!
*The view from Piazza Michelangelo is really nice but it is a bit further away from the main touristy spots
*Florence is a great city just to walk around, make sure you spend time just relaxing and enjoying the atmosphere.
*Climbing up the Duomo was fun and well worth it for those without any health conditions (parts of the stairs are really narrow and dark and could make someone really dizzy or sick)
Day 5 Venice
The ride from Florence to Venice is a bit longer-almost 3 hours and not as comfortable as our ride from Rome to Florence. The Venice train station is more hectic than Florence but our service lady at the tourist office was extremely affable and gave us some well needed information. We hopped onto the 51 Vaporetto to get to our hotel, Sant Elena (see my separate review) which we loved! I was a bit apprehensive because it was raining when we got to Venice but luckily the rain subsided within a couple of hours. The rain made the Venetian night look beautiful as the air was crisp and fewer people were out and about because of the rain. We headed out to St. Mark's Square and strolled down all the little alley ways looking at shops and restaurants. Unfortunately, for dinner we decided to eat at the Piccolo Martini, a little restaurant that seemed crowded and not on the main road but again we were really disappointed with the food! After dinner, we spent the evening crossing bridges and watching gondola riders before heading over to listen to the dueling orchestras in St. Mark's square (very fun!). We had dessert at one of the restaurants and enjoyed the music for the rest of the night before heading back to our hotel.
Day 6
Our hotel receptionist told us that it would be cloudy but when we woke up, we could not have asked for a more perfect day. The sun splendidly greeted and basked us in its warm light. The weather was so nice we strolled along the river from Sant Elena to St. Mark's square stopping by to admire the parks, bridges, boats, and homes along the way. Once we got to St. Mark's square, we went window shopping at some of the high end boutiques because we didn't get to do that in the other two cities. We then headed our way up the Campanile tower to get a view of the Venice from atop. It was $6 euros and we thought climbing the Duomo in Florence was more worth it but you're there so why not do both? We also went inside St. Mark's Basilica but after seeing all the different churches, we were a bit "churched" out. In St. Mark's Square, there are tons of pigeons and they are so friendly and perch right up on your arm or your head if you just stand there. My boyfriend got a kick out of that. For lunch, we ate at the Osteria da Maria for $30 where we got some very tasty vegetables and fresh made ravioli. We took a ride on the 1 vaparetto up and down the Grand Canal. Since we got the 36 hour pass, we were able to get on and off the vaparetto and explore the different areas from Ca D'oro to the Accadamia (yes they have one too). Getting lost in the little streets of Venice was kind of fun and so was walking up the streets of local shops, bakeries, mask and glass stores. We didn't know that the gondola rides end around 9:00pm and we had originally planned to take it after dinner but once we found out, we ran back to St. Mark's from our hotel. Luckily, we found one gondolier but he charged us $100 euros (he claimed that it was the night time surchage but since it was our last night there, we had no choice. The ride was nice, it was peaceful and our gondolier rode just close enough to another gondola that we got free musical accompaniment! Sadly, our ride was abruptly cut short because we felt some drops of rain and he said it was going to start raining. I think our ride was only about 25 minutes instead of the 40. That was the only bummer about the gondola ride. I would recommend going at sunset, I think that would be the most peaceful and romantic time to see the Venetian canals. If we get a chance to go to Venice again, we might do that :). Our last dinner in Venice was at the Osteria Da Franz located in Giardini. It was the nicest restaraunt that we ate at and the food and service were both outstanding. We spent about $120 euros there but could have easily spent more. After dinner, we took one last stroll to St. Mark's Square to get one last gelato since it was going to be our last night in Venice. We had to catch the night vaporetta at 3:00am so we didn't have much sleep, but luckily we got to the airport with the public transportation and without a hitch!
Tips for Venice:
*Ride the vaporetto on the Grand Canal during sunset towards and against Lido, it's beautiful.
*Take a sunset gondola ride
*Catch the dueling orchestras in St. Mark's
*walk along the boardwalk towards Sant Elena
*stroll up and down all the little shops
Overall tips:
I would dress in layers
T otally wear comfy shoes
A lways keep your money and belongings close to you
L learn to love gelato and cappucino-we had that everyday
Y es, have a blast!
Ciao Ciao
Rome, September 12-18, 2008
After four earlier trips to Rome, we decided to use the opportunity of a Mediterranean cruise that departed and returned from and to Civitavecchia, to stay in Rome after the cruise for about six days. For the purpose of this journal, we will arrange our experiences around five topics: Churches, Plazas, Fountains, Ruins, Outside Rome. At the end of this writing I will offer you some points about lodging, transportation and security.
Churches: Don’t miss St. Peter Basilica in the Vatican City. As you walk through Bernini’s colonnade you will be leaving Italy and entering in another country: The Vatican. Normally everyone enters the great basilica and takes a couple of pictures in the Plaza. However, I would recommend two other things to do here: 1. Climb the 320 steps to the top of the cupola for the best views of the Gardens of the Vatican and the whole city of Rome. Once you reach the top you are in the highest point of the city. 2. You may visit the Scavii (Excavations under the main altar of St. Peter). This will require that you made a reservation; it can be done by e-mail. St. Peter’s Basilica web site offers information about these two areas as well as other points of interest in St. Peter: http://saintpeterbasilica.org
The list of churches in Rome could be like a telephone directory of a small city. It is impossible to mention all of them here. Keep in mind that there is a dress code requirement for entering them and you must preclude from taking pictures while a religious ceremony is taking place. Also they are quite dark and provide you a cool refuge from the Roman heat as well as a place to sit down and relax for a while. Catholics have a saying that whenever you enter a church for the first time and you do a prayer you can ask for a favor….Your wish list in Rome could be quite lengthy.
Plazas: Rome give the impression of grow and live around plazas. As you walk around you will not be able to avoid them: regular shaped or without any designs, small or big, old or new, crowded or strangely deserted. The list here, like the churches, is large. Almost every church has a plaza in front, or around it somewhere. I would mention only about a dozen of them: Piazza de Spagna, San Pietro, Venezia, Navona, del Popolo, della Boca della Verita, del Quirinale, della Repubblica, di Santa Maria in Trastevere, del Campidoglio, dell’Esquilino, and Campo de Fiore.
In the plazas you could find a place to eat or drink a cappuccino. I would recommend to look for a gelateria (ice cream shop) mainly in Piazza Navona. Also most of the plazas aside from one or more churches you will find also one or more fountains. To sit around a fountain is one of the Romans preferred outings in the middle of the afternoon or early evenings. Don’t forget the saying: “If in Rome do like the Romans”
Fountains: The fountains of Rome have been the subject of classical musical pieces or well known-movies. Many of the fountains you will find in Rome were like public works constructed by the Popes for the benefit of the various sectors of the city. Likewise the list of plazas, I will offer only the names of few fountains that should be in any visitors' lists: Starting, probably with the most worldwide famous fountain: The Fontana de Trevi. This fountain together with the Triton Fountain in Barberini Square are the subject of two of the symphonic poems of Respighi, Fontane di Rome.
We should mention also the three fountains in Piazza Navona: Four Rivers, the Moor and Neptune. There are beautiful and worth mentioning fountains in Piazza del Popolo and Nicosia. There are numerous fountains in many of the plazas that are worth the visit and to enjoy their cool environment.
One of my favorites is the small fountain at Santa Maria Cosmedin in the Forum Boarium, see picture of the fountain as well as the Temple of Hercules in the back.
Ruins and Monuments: Aside from churches, plazas and fountains the other ever present element of Rome are its ruins and classical monuments. From the countless Egyptian obelysks to the classic roman buildings and monuments, your selection is overwhelming. They are everywhere! The most famous probably is the Colisseum, followed by the Roman Forum. I would recommend that you buy a combined ticket of admission covering these two points of interest plus the Palatine. The Palatine is a place that most turists pass or simple ignore.
I strongly recommend that your itinerary includes these three attractions. This time we tried to visit the Domus Aurea, the old ruins of Nero's palace next to the Colisseum, but unfortunately it was was closed that day. Also among the recommended ruins you should visit are the Forum Imperiali and the Forum Boarium. There is a beautiful old Roman monument well preserved in a modern museum: Ara Pacis Augustana. Is an altar built by the Senate and People of Rome (SPQR) to conmemorate the peaceful era of Emperor Cesar Augusto.
Outside Rome: Rome is a place that must be visited by everyone… but also visitors of Rome should adventure outside the City and go to places such as Tivoli, Amalfi Coast, or even Florence and Assissi.
The pictured attached is from Positano, the jewel of the Costiera Amalfitana. To drive the Amalfi Coast that runs south of Sorrento, until the area around Salerno, will take a full day. But it may be shortened by returning a short while after visiting Amalfi turning toward Naples through the interior highway and thus avoiding the slow traffic of the coastal winding road.
Practical Guidelines:
Let me end with some general guidelines: During this last trip we avoided the museums due to the long lines and by the fact that we have visited the major ones during earlier visits. However, the Vatican Museums should be a priority for everyone visiting Rome.
Lodging: In our first visit to Rome in 1975, we stayed at D’Inghilterra, great location but we couldn’t afford it now. We have stayed in far out places and in the middle of the city. During our last trip we stayed at the Alimandi Tunisi about two blocks from the Vatican Museums. This was a great experience and we highly recommend it. However, the most important thing we would recommend about a hotel or pension in Rome is to find one that is close to a Metro station, this will provide you with the necessary mobility in this magnificent city.
Transportation: As we were planning to stay for six days we purchased at the Metro station a Carta Integrata Settimanale for Euro 16. This allowed us free access to the Metro and all city trams and buses for our complete stay. One of our best purchases ever! We recommend that you obtain this pass as well as a Roma Metro-Bus map for Euro 6, in any newsstand as a companion guide to the pass. That’s all you need to move around besides your own two feet wearing the most comfortable shoes you may have. Try to stay away from flip flops or high heels. The streets and pavement in Rome are quite uneven without considering the ancient cobbled streets and water running from a myriad of fountains around the city.
Security: In Rome, like any other large city, you may run the risk of being pick pocked if the basic security steps are not observed. Never carry valuables in your back pockets, carry your bags closely held next to your body, leave what you don’t need in a safe deposit in your hotel, carry copies of your passport, never put a bag in the floor or in an empty chair while you dine (regardless of the type of restaurant). Avoid strangers that approach you with a map or a book or any article trying to show or ask you something. Stay always alert. We never have had a problem in Rome regarding our security!
Accept the fact that you are going to be surrounded by hundred of thousand people living and visiting Rome at the same time that you are there. If you don’t like people in your pictures of buildings, plazas, parks, etc. you need patience and creativeness.
Enjoy the food and don't be afraid to drink water from any of the running fountains in Rome. The water is fresh and safe, unless there is a post indicating that it is not good for drinking.
Also, be prepared for the fact that Rome is not a cheap place to visit.
Each of the pictures appearing on this journal is individually explained in detail under the "My Photos" section. As an alternative you may click the photos appearing here for expanded information.