6 Search Results for "gelateria"

• Gelateria, Florence

  • From: jhodgso1
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  • 2 weeks ago
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• Gelato

  • From: Kahealani
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    This photo was taken at a gelateria in Florence, Italy.

  • 5 months ago
  • Views: 107
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• Just off the Map in Florence

  • From: hermitisland2006
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    Earlier this year my wife and I along with four of our kids, ages 14 – 25, spent the third week of June in Firenze (Florence), Italy.   This was my first trip to Italy, my wife’s third, and our planning started a year ago. Eventually we decided to rent two apartments right on the Piazza Della Signoria.  The apartments were OK, nothing elaborate, but the location was wonderful. We were right in the middle of Firenze, and we could feel the life pulsing from the piazza.  All of the city’s sites were within a twenty minute walk of the apartment. The idea behind the apartment was that we would not be bound to have every meal out and the mornings could be a casual, slow awakening for our tribe.  This worked for everyone - they slept in while I rose early and explored on foot as the city awakened.

    
    I savored my self-appointed role as the advance scout.  The streets were empty except for the street cleaners with their brooms of twigs (just like a witch’s broom), a centuries-old design which was perfect for brushing the uneven paving stones.  Vendors were pushing carts heavily loaded with wares to their street market locations.  One morning I encountered an open-backed Panda utility truck as it clunked along a narrow lane, its only cargo a pile of empty straw covered Chianti bottles that had been collected from the sidewalks in front of shuttered restaurants.  I’m not sure if they were destined to be recycled or taken back to the winery for refilling.  The aroma from bakeries and pasticceria filled the streets with temptation as the city slowly came alive with businessmen and women seeking their biscotti and morning cappuccino.  Each day I explored in a different direction, and returned with neighborhood breakfast specialties and inspiration for the days’ outing if all the stars were aligned correctly.

    
    One morning I crossed the Arno River and head uphill towards the Piazzale Michelangelo for a postcard-perfect view of the city.  From the front of the Uffizi Gallery I made a left onto Via Della Ninna which after a short walk turned into the Via  Dei Neri.  Walking just one or two blocks away from any attraction in Firenze makes a huge difference in feeling.  The tourist crowds thin out and the true character of the surrounding streets can be felt.  The Via Dei Neri turned out to be one of our favorite streets, with its small trattorias that brought tables out onto the street on the weekends.  The Taverna de’Neri offers exceptional food, good value, and a congenial owner.  On our second visit, the owner related that she had seen our children the previous day buying gelato across the street. Gelateria dei Neri offers several flavors of soy-based gelati, for the lactose intolerant, which was not easy to find in Firenze.  Every flavor looked delicious but be sure to ask for a sample of the chocolate pistachio with red pepper flakes before you get a whole scoop: it’s a hot spicy gelato!  Posted on the walls of the shop are snapshots of Gelateria dei Neri cups in front of famous sites the world over that patrons have sent back to the store for the staff's enjoyment.  Farther down the lane you’ll find shops that feature the handicrafts of local artisans.

    
     If you stayed straight on Via dei Neri you would eventually be one block from Chiesa di Santa Croce.  But I turned right when I reached  Via Del Benci and crossed the Arno River on Ponte Alle Grazie.  The vantage point from this bridge offers wonderful views of the Ponte Vecchio, Firenze crew teams practicing their strokes and local residents sunbathing and swimming along the banks of the river.  The Oltrarno (other side of the Arno) neighborhood is off the beaten track, with a very laid back feel, and it has been home to craftsman and artists for centuries.  My nose led me to a tiny bakery on Via Di San Niccolo - my backpack wasn't large enough to hold all the treats I wanted to buy.  My special find was a small breakfast panini with ricotta cheese and sardines.

    
    This part of the city still has portions of the medieval defensive wall visible from many angles.  The steep climb to Piazzale Michelangelo starts at the ancient Porta San Miniato gate.  Upon exiting the gate a right turn would have lead me up a lane that followed the curve of the ancient wall, to the renaissance era Forte Di Belvedere and the rear entrance to Giardino di Boboli.  But I continued straight on Via del Monte Alle Croci until I veered left to the Michelangelo stairs, a short but steep and shaded approach to the piazza at the top.  Halfway up I found the Colonia Felina Protetta #3, a protected area that provides shelter, food and water for stray cats. I saw an elderly woman calling them for their morning treats.   My determined pace up the stairs was rewarded with a fantastic panoramic view of Firenze and all its Renaissance glory below.  At the east end of the piazzale I gazed into the surrounding countryside covered with the cypress trees that Tuscany is known for.  There were many places just off the piazza to rest and dine.  This is a great vantage point to watch the sunset over Firenze later in the day.  At this point if exhaustion has set in you can hop onto the number 12 or 13 bus for the trip back into Firenze.   But don’t turn back now: the find of the day is just a little farther up the road away from the Piazza. 
    It’s the quest to explore and look around each corner that let me to the Basilica Di San Miniato.  It was not on the city map I was using, just off the edge, not visible.  But from the road where I was standing a series of footpaths that wound a little farther uphill looked intriguing and begged for further exploration.  Eventually the walk revealed high stone walls.  I found a hole in the hedgerow, and upon exiting this rabbit hole I was at the base of stairs that revealed the magnificent, geometrically patterned, green and white marble façade of the Basilica Di San Miniato, dedicated to St. Minias, Firenze’s first martyr.  He was thrown to the lions in 250 A.D. but they refused to devour him; unfortunately this reprieve was short lived, and he was later beheaded by order of the emperor.  Legend says he then tucked his head under his arm, crossed the Arno River and walked up the hill to the site of the Basilica.  There has been a church on the site since the Eighth century, remnants of which can still be seen in the crypt, the high altar which contains the Saint's relics.  Construction for this Romanesque church was started in 1013 and is very unique, with the choir raised above the crypt.  The center of the church is highlighted by a free standing intricate Cappella del Crocefisso (Chapel of the Crucifix) added in 1448.  The pavement in the centre of the Basilica includes marble inlays representing the signs of the zodiac and symbolic animals.  The walls contain many faded but still beautiful frescoes from the 13th and 14th century.  Up the stairs in one of the side chapels, I eventually found the coin box for the interior lights.  It was worth a Euro to illuminate the treasures otherwise hidden in dim shadows. During the siege of Firenze in 1530 the Basilica and its Benedictine monastery were surrounded with fortified defensive walls designed by Michelangelo and used as an artillery post by the defenders of the city.  These walls now enclose a pleasant cemetery with many unique headstones and mausoleums.  One monument featured the sculpted portrait of the deceased wearing his fedora.  The shop outside the Basilica sells liqueurs, honey and tisanes made by the Olivetan order of Benedictine monks that have occupied the Basilica's monastery since 1373.  As I rested at the top of the stairs to admire and absorb the view towards Forte Di Belvedere and Firenze beyond, I thought it was absolutely spectacular.

    
    I headed home carrying a breakfast of breadsticks and pastries for the late sleepers, only to return later in the day with them in tow.  We took the less strenuous route to the top in the afternoon - the #13 bus to the summit, where we all enjoyed this adventure together. The Piazzale Michelangelo and the Basilica are wonderful destinations, and I heartily recommend spending a half day of your time at this extraordinary vantage point in Firenze.

     

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  • 1 year ago
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• Southern Tuscany - - For the L

  • From: georgewbrown
  • Description:

     

    So, Ashley is again to blame. She made the inevitable mistake of asking how Italy was. That is not a simple yes/no, good/bad answer. Eleven days is a long time, another continent, a wild adventure and a gorgeous wife deserve their due credit. I actually started this yesterday, didn't finish, and completed it today. I think I am in a better mood, better rested today because I like my writing better. Its long - - I am sorry. Bear with me as it gets better . . . . .

     Italy was amazing, as you would expect it to be. But, this year, I think we got a better feel for it than last year, for the towns, the people, what we like and what we don't. We claim we will not go there next year. Not that we don't like it, in fact the exact opposite, but the world is large and time is limited . . . . we will see.

     We left Thursday, slipping away from work to catch the 5:00 flight out of Atlanta. By slipping away, I mean P dragging me and me cowering so my office would not know how much time I was taking. Not only had all of the Friday flights filled up, but we didn't even get to fly to Italy. Instead, we flew to Zurich, Switzerland. For several reasons, I was okay with this: first, new stamp for my passport - - yes, I am becoming one of those people who "collects" stamps - - - funny. the customs officer waved us through without a stamp. I pouted. P on the other hand just asked if he would stamp out passports (it is the law, isn't it????). Now why didn't I think of that? Second, picking up our rental car in Zurich means we paid in Swiss Francs - - a much better exchange rate than Euros. Third, we flew business class (why isn't this first class anymore?). The flight, ah, the flight, lets see, start with a glass of champagne, then, a glass of Sauvignon Blanc to accompany the bowls of warmed nuts (no peanuts in there either - - - just the good stuff - - well except for that brazil nut). Then, a filet with béarnaise sauce, green beans and potatoes. Of course, a Pinot Noir to accompany the filet. Then, an ice cream sundae with chocolate sauce and nuts while watching a movie (I cannot remember which because there were so many to choose from) on our individual television screens. I wonder what those in the back of the plane were watching and eating . . . Oh yeah, did I mention the multiple breakfast options as we fly over France. I selected the Mimosa - - breakfast of champions (to honor the French of course). Boy, I love business class.

    Anyway, Paulette conned our doctor into giving us a prescription for Ambien to try and help us sleep. It’s tough to do on a plane. I say conned, but I think she actually just called his office, said "I think we are supposed to say we are having trouble sleeping or something. But, we really just want to sleep on a plane. Will you prescribe us drugs?" She is kind of straight forward with customs officers and doctors - - - not so much with lawyers. He did. My wife is good, maybe too good (do I give in like that so easily????) So, a little afraid, we each took half a pill. Paulette zonked. I slept, restlessly for maybe 3 hours - - maybe. So, we leave Atlanta at 5:00 p.m., sleep 3 hours, fly 8 1/2 hours and get of the plane in Zurich at 8:30 in the morning. Hmmm, just lost some time in there, didn't we? So, off to the car rental place. We got a little Renault - - kind of cool actually. But, in line to sign the paperwork, I hand over my credit card and Paulette gives them her name as the driver (not good in Chip's brain). I say, "Shouldn’t that be in my name????". She says no. Okay, no. Why not? Oh, you made the reservation. I guess that trumps like, paying for the whole trip, doesn't it? Anyway, off we go (Paulette driving). Next issue, we left our good Michelin maps at home. So we are using Eurocar's map to try and get from Switzerland to Italy, me navigating, Paulette driving (and navigating too - - - if you don't like my navigating, let me drive and I will let you navigate . . . .). ANYWAY, the drive goes well, no mishaps until we get past Milan and decide, largely based upon my snoring and the drool slowly dribbling from the corner of Paulette's mouth, that it is time to stop for lunch, some air and a little walking around to wake up. Hint, when overly tired and hungry, one tends to be irritable . . . only compounded by running over curbs in parking lots (and nearly old Italian men). Did I mention P was driving? That being said, we found a great little lunch spot, struggled mightily with out limited Italian and had a nice lunch. Other than massive traffic around Firenza (Florence - no, it’s not called Florence in Italy), the drive was thereafter uneventful. But, the traffic ran us behind and I sent us down the wrong road (see I should drive and she should navigate). By dark, my cell phone rings and it’s the lady who owns the Agritourism place where we are staying wanting to know where we are (cannot wait to see the cost of answering that phone call). She speaks very little English and lives at their nearby winery. Her mother, who lives at the Agritourism, speaks no English. Paulette, I know you are driving but here, talk to this woman. I cannot understand a word she says. Five minutes later, my keen eye spots the mailbox for which we are looking (chock one up to Mr. Navigator) and we are there. After brief introductions (me Chip, you something I cannot pronounce) we drive 1 minute into town, drool on ourselves a lot, have dinner and crash into deep slumber.

    Saturday, we get up at a descent hour and think we are going to Arezzo for one of the largest antique markets in the area (by we, I mean my wife. I navigate, she directs). Somehow, nonna (grandmother), manages to let Paulette know the market is actually Sunday. Since it is a 2 hour drive to Arezzo, we are thrilled to not go. We end up going into Montalcino where we will be spending 6 days. This is your classic Italian hilltop town with a medieval walled fortress and several bell towers. The streets are all stone and so narrow that one car can barely drive through. Yes, I am in heaven. We find a bar for an espresso, the life-blood of Italians, and wander around town. The fortress is really cool, we get to climb to the top of one of the towers (where of course we meet people and stand talking for like 3 days) and can see for miles in all directions. The hills in southern Tuscany are different than the Piemonte (Piedmont) area we visited last year. This is Brunello region, Brunello di Montalcino being one of the most expensive and best wines in the world. Looking out, you see hills of grape vines and equally, hills plowed under, ready for planting next spring. Whatever they grow was harvested already and tilled under. Imagine fields of dark brown, alternating with fields of grape vines, stretching a far as you can see, appearing to be tilled to at least three feet. If you stepped in, you might sink in this rich soil - - just like quick sand. Good place to hide a body, say of the driver who won't let the navigator drive. But, I digress. The grape vines, though mostly harvested, were beautiful as well, slowly changing from green to gold and amber red, seemingly before our eyes as though to click by the days we were there. One thing about Montalcino, it was great, but its notoriety for Brunello brings with it unwanted consequences. The aforementioned fortress, is now an Enoteca, those notorious wine bars springing up all over Italy (cluttering might be a better description), offering light lunches, wine tasting and an expanse of wine for tourists to purchase, conveniently (annoyingly) boxed in two's and three's for the low, low price of . . . . . Anyway, a fortress turned into an Enoteca, tragic in my opinion. Now if that weren't one of the 501,203 Enotecas in Montalcino (population of about 500 - - so what is that ratio????) the town might have been perfect. Don't get me wrong, I enjoyed it, I would not likely go back. But, I enjoyed it.

    Now, the highlight of Saturday . . . . . the owner of the Agritourism place managed to tell us (okay, Paulette - - - I don't think I ever understood a word she said) about a "festival" in nearby Camigliano, a celebration of the harvest. This would mainly be locals as it is a very small town. So, in the car at 7:00 and off we go (slightly dragging still from jet lag . . . and enough wine already that my 97th espresso of the day cannot overcome). Down the big road, to the right, more pot holes than road (was that a even a road by definition?), finally to a "town", maybe fifteen houses, a few buildings, okay a few more but tiny even by Italian, in the middle of nowhere, please God don't let these be cannibals, standards. Surprisingly, there are many cars so we park and walk, wandering until we come upon tents set out, a dance floor, workers milling around cooking food and many, many wine bottles being opened. But, very, very few people and apparently no one who spoke English. Back to that whole being tired and hungry leads to irritability. Now add that to me - - not being know for enjoying standing around with absolutely no earthly idea how to communicate with these people or what I am doing. I am not sure how long we waited nor how many people Paulette asked "parli ingles?" These people were not highly educated, more the farmers from the community. I stood there saying to myself, trying to smile in that, I want to go eat and to bed, way, that my wife will make this evening the highlight of our trip. I know she will. I was not disappointed. Finally, one old man pointed Paulette to Lisa "angel in blue jeans" Annicchiarico (yeah, try to say that last name). Lisa is from Vancouver though her parents are from Italy. She moved to Montalcino 6 years ago and, more importantly, speaks English better than I do, at least when drooling from the corner of my mouth from fatigue, hunger and boredom. Turns out, you needed tickets and reservations. But, as most non-Americans are (sorry, but it is true), they opened their collective arms and welcomed us in (or snook us in depending on your vantage point). The food that night was made by the people in the town. They had been cooking for two days non-stop. Lisa had a hand in the ragu (by the way, did you know classic ragu has liver????? YUCK!!!!!!!!! But tastes darn good!).  We had tagliatelle with ragu, grilled chicken and (drum roll please) Tuscan white beans with garlic, sage and olive oil (maybe my new favorite food - - in fact P made some last night). The food was amazingly cheap (even as the Euro exchanged at $1.39 - - - better than the $1.54 when we decided on Italy- - worse than the $1.34 today) and even more amazingly good. Oh, that wine being opened, yeah, we made a dent. After eating, there was a disco (dance, not Bee Gees and other cheesy '70s music). But, Italians don't eat till late and start to dance even later. So, how to pass the time, okay, another bottle of wine, a couple of glasses of muscato (dessert wine as sweet as honey) and, because I was freezing (yeah, October evening in Italy are very cool - guess I didn't need that swimsuit after all dear) P went to some dude in German military clothes (more on him later) to order two grappa. What is grappa? Imagine grain alcohol made from grape skins, leaves and stems - - heck the neighborhood cat might be crushed in there. Anyway, one sip, searching the ground for my left eye which popped out from the intensity, and three guys start clearing everyone out of the disco. Apparently, you had to have a 5 Euro ticket to get in which they politely accepted from us and left us as the only people there. Guess it was easier to leave us than try to communicate we had to leave, only to turn around and walk right back in. Soon, multitudes crowded in. Where they came from, I have no idea. But, imagine a couple of hundred white people dancing to '80s American music - - - and me being one of the better dancers! (Yeah, ouch!!!!!!!) But, by about 1:30 am, both my eyes had fallen out, P had finished my grappa and chugged hers, so, we climbed in the car to drive back to Montalcino. By the way, when driving "under those circumstances" it is wise not to let the person who chugged grappa drive. Even better the "chugger" should refrain from having her bright lights one (highly illegal) when passing THREE carabinieri - - that's like state troopers or at least cops with really, really big guns. I will not mention who was driving. But we made it home . . . I think. I do know that I woke up in bed the next morning. In the long run, P pulled it off, dragging me to the middle of nowhere, tired, irritable and against my desire, and making it the best night of our trip. But, don't quit reading just because this was the highlight. We still have David's wiener to tantalize you . . .

    Speaking of beds, in case you haven't been to Italy, or Europe for that matter, they could use a few Serta mattresses. I think my desk would be more comfortable to sleep on and my computer might make a better pillow. These guys would think of a '70s sofa bed as luxurious. Seriously, I think by the time we left Montalcino, I needed back surgery or at least a chiropractor.

    Sunday, bright and early - - okay, not so early, we left for Arrezo. Leave it to the stupid navigator (I won't tell you who was navigating but it wasn't the same person driving the night before), but, we almost ended up in Prague. To my, I mean the navigator's defense, Italian maps don't bother show things like roads or names for the few roads they do show. Roads sometimes have numbers. But, if the maps don't show the numbers, what good are they? (Quit snickering dear - - we didn't get lost too many times). So, you end up stumbling from one town to the next navigating towards the next town between you and your destination - - leading to a lot of zigzagging. (Kids, Big Ben, Parliament - - - please tell me your remember National Lampoon's European Vacation - - we sure did). In the hill country, this is compounded by roads going back and forth to climb mountains and my constant screaming of "STOP - - - I want to take a photo!" Anyway, we finally arrive in Arezzo. The antique dealers are spread throughout the city - a rather large city at that, centered on the main piazza. P finds several old glass wine stoppers that are really cool. Meanwhile, I focus on several old wine bottles to complement my purchase from last year in France. I try to haggle (difficult when venders say numbers so quickly that you have to have them write them down) on one of three large bottles. Not wanting a repeat of last year's bottle between my legs for the 10 hour flight home, I decide to continue looking rather than plop down 35 Euro (why doesn't this keyboard have a "Euro" key?????). Up the hill, we find three slightly smaller, magnum sized green bottles, one with an old ceramic stopper. P asks the price (I still cannot remember how to ask in Italian. Spanish yes, Italian, well, that is one of the reasons I took her along). 10 euros. 10? Yes, 10. Could you write that down? Him waiving a 10 Euro note - - somewhat annoyed or annoyingly. Really, 10???? So much for bartering . . . . its mine!!!! (and home intact I might add). Wait a minute, when did that parking meter expire??? Oh yeah, we do need to look at EVERY single piece of jewelry between here and there. So, we get to the car with no ticket (despite the jewelry) and start homeward only to find a festival in a town we passed through on the way. I am not sure how, but since we passed through earlier in the day, thousands have arrived, a ferris wheel is erected and I think a small roller coaster was installed. Parking is car to car for miles. So, what do we do? Make a space and head toward the festival!

     

    Now, by festival, I really mean market combined with amusement park. These were the highlight of our trip to France last year. I am not sure why, but, this was not a highlight. Imagine a very, very bad flea market in the darkest hills of Georgia - - - they sell the same crap, down to the bootleg CDs and DVDs. But, the Italians supplement it with underwear, lingerie and so many people, you cannot walk through the booths without first being intimate with everyone around you. My height, abnormal by Italian standards, serves me well. One fun thing they have is what I like to call the "meat trucks". Trucks designed with one entire side that opens, lined with cold cases and have meats of all descriptions - - like a traveling butcher. I remember these in France, but Italian meat trucks have porchetta, basically an entire pig stuffed with herbs, spices and pig parts (yeah, don't ask but I don't think the pig had a tongue any more), cooked and thinly sliced for sandwiches. Italians seems to think this is the best thing since salami and eat them like crazy despite the well place pig head right next to their sandwich. P almost gagged, seriously. (We the pigs eyes still there or included in the stuffing and I won't even go there with it's innards) So, we skipped the porchetta and got a salami then bailed out due to the massive crowd. Luckily, upon our return to town, we managed the last table in a restaurant we tried to get in Friday night (sorry dude, we were first). Dinner was amazing: a liter of house red and three courses of heaven on a plate. For the life of me, I cannot remember what we ate (honey, notebook next trip please). But, it was incredible. Then to bed. By the way, if Italy is so romantic, why don't we . . . . never mind, I remember, jet lag.

    Monday, still in Montalcino. But, today we are off to Cortona. University of Georgia has a study abroad program in Cortona complete with its own campus. This actually turned me off a bit despite my reading "Under the Tuscan Sun" (completely different from the movie by the way - - - READ THE BOOK!), centered in Cortona. But, P's mom highly recommended it. So, off we go. Again, I suggest, a detour to Montapulciano (one of my favorite wines) or that we stop in any of the 30 assorted hill top towns we pass through on the drive. But, my wife, believing in her mom and being much wiser that I, drives onward (no, I have not touched the driver's seat yet). Luckily, we had a couple of friends who spent the summer in Cortona. Their suggestions? Gelato at Coccoa, the one and only one, gelateria (we were forbidden from eating Gelato anywhere else in Italy - - strong endorsement), lunch at one of two restaurants (we skipped the four hour, 150 Euro, 15 course meal) and a 30 minute walking tour. First lunch. Above the main piazza, Il Loggiata, used to be the fish market but now is a restaurant. It overlooks the piazza and 14th century main hall and was ideal for lunch. As I later found out reading my book, Frances Mayes ate there often. Its fun reading a book about where you have been - - - I guess why Jenean so strongly recommended the town and the book. Before shopping, we decided to take the walking tour, out of town, through a gorgeous tree lined park looking out across the valley far below us to a lake disappearing amongst the hills (yeah, it was a pretty walk, level too), around the tennis courts (clay Mom) and up the "hill" past Bramsole, Mayes' now infamous house and up to a church on top of the hill. Funny, we knew we were to pass Bramsole. But, which house? It’s not like they posted a billboard saying, here is the house Mayes wrote about. I was trying to remember the description from the book. The, round a turn - - - there she was. No doubt about it. Oh yeah, on the way, a small bar was recommended to us. Being that we were exercising and all, we stopped for a biere (beer). Eleven or so old men were gathered around a table on the patio, four playing cards, 7 telling them how to do it. (Why not a second deck of cards and game? I guess its more fun to watch and complain) And, a dog - little dog, guarding the entry. Literally, remember the dog from Men in Black (come on, Tommy Lee Jones, Will Smith - you remember)? It stood in front of the door with this incredulous look. P tried to reason with it. As good as her Italian was becoming, it didn't work. I stepped over (there is beer in there you know) and she joined me. We sat, watching the men, them watching us, scratching little Mr. Incredulous' backside.

    Now, remember that 30 minute walk? I have never been accused of walking slowly, but that walk took a good two hours, bare minimum. We took one shortcut as the road switched back and forth . . . leading to little more that scrapes and a nice walk down a gravel road to get back to the road we had just left - - - maybe P should not navigate after all . . . .  P ended up with at least 22 Band-Aids on her feet later that night (artistic right to exaggerate noted). But, the "church" at the top of the hill was amazing. First, we were there completely alone (except the monk P was convinced was crouched in hiding, watching us, ready to leap at my slightest move towards my camera). Filled with magnificent frescoes and 10 - 12 paintings from the 1400's, this place was beyond description . . . . at least until we got to the alter, a convenient resting place for a 600 year old saint who used to wander the streets of Cortona beating herself and refusing to eat so she could feel Christ's suffering (no comment Paulette!) Now, when I say, "resting place", I mean, she is there - literally, in glass, right in front of you, kind of like a porchetta but not being made into a sandwich (am I going to Hell for that one????). Catholics are freaky, so say the least but a 600 year old dead body in a glass box??? Come on now! So, back to Cortona. The path back down to the city was constructed entirely of rock and so steep, I thought I might trip and end up about 1,500 meters down. The amazing thing is the old people we passed on their way up. It struck me, these Italians, as religious as they are, climb that hill for every church service. You will have to see the pictures hopefully to understand. No wonder they are in such good shape. So several hours into our 30 minute walk, we arrive back in the main piazza. The good news, drum roll please, my wife is too tired to shop!!!!! So gelato at Coccoa, lemon for me, white mint for Paulette (okay, hers was better so I ate a lot of it). Back to the car and release the hounds - - - our aching feet! (What is that smell?) An aside here. As we walked, seeing each house, looking for Mayes' house Bramsole, I tried to remember the description from the book. We later learned she had sold the house due to the notoriety achieved by the book. But, when we came around a turn, I had no trouble emphatically stating that was Bramsole. It leapt from the book at me and only continues to do so as I continued reading the next few days. I hope the movie (thanks Martha) does some justice to Cortona and the house. If I were to live in Italy, it might have to be Cortona - - a magical and amazing city. That night, we met Lisa for dinner. She took us to her favorite local place. Restaurants charge a coperto or cover charge in Italy - - basically for bread and the right to buy their food. We learned that night that really, the coperto doesn't apply to locals or their guests. Dinner again, was amazing.

     

    Tuesday came and we met Lisa again, this time to see the abbey of Sant'Antimo and hear the monks' Gregorian chants. This abbey is a highlight of the area, first built around 1000 when Charlemagne was traveling and his men became sick. He promised God he would build a church if they got better. They did. Presto, thousand year old church. But, the best is the chanting. This is one of the only, if not the only, churches in Italy where monks chant daily. It was pretty cool and the architecture of the church was inspiring. After the monks, interestingly - one looked out of place, wearing what in my brain was a white sweat suit while the others wore traditional robes, a choral tourist group gathered in the front and sang. Ends up, men can go and stay there while on spiritual journeys - - - hmmm, not to fond of Catholic priests these days, think I will just visit. For lunch, we broke down and went to an Enoteca. To out delight, the food was amazing. We struggled through ordering in Italian. Then, after lunch, I decided to try a flight of 5 Brunellos. The server quickly broke into perfect English to tell us all about the wines . . . . making us practice our Italian I see. Later that day, Lisa took us on another adventure as we drove back towards Camigliano. Turns out, it wasn't exactly a dead end road. There is a several mile long gravel dead end road off of it, leading to a wonderful vineyard owned and run by none other than the guy in a German uniform who gave P the grappa Saturday night . . . small world. Of course, he speaks no English but makes pretty darn good wine. Lisa translated for me (P by this time is fluent in Italian). We bought a few bottles of both Brunello and Rosso di Montelcino and avoided the grappa. We did take a wrong turn on the way, going down another road that ended at an amazing old abandoned farm house on top of a hill, looking out for miles across valleys and other hills. I think P made an offer on that (great, another house). That night, we had Lisa over to "our" place for dinner.

    Until part 2 . . . .

     

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• Rediscovering Rome

  • From: antfern
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    Rome, September 12-18, 2008

    After four earlier trips to Rome, we decided to use the opportunity of a Mediterranean cruise that departed and returned from and to Civitavecchia, to stay in Rome after the cruise for about six days.  For the purpose of this journal, we will arrange our experiences around five topics: Churches, Plazas, Fountains, Ruins, Outside Rome.  At the end of this writing I will offer you some points about lodging, transportation and security.

    Churches:  Don’t miss St. Peter Basilica in the Vatican City.  As you walk through Bernini’s colonnade you will be leaving Italy and entering in another country: The Vatican.  Normally everyone enters the great basilica and takes a couple of pictures in the Plaza.  However, I would recommend two other things to do here: 1. Climb the 320 steps to the top of the cupola for the best views of the Gardens of the Vatican and the whole city of Rome.  Once you reach the top you are in the highest point of the city. 2. You may visit the Scavii (Excavations under the main altar of St. Peter).  This will require that you made a reservation; it can be done by e-mail.  St. Peter’s Basilica web site offers information about these two areas as well as other points of interest in St. Peter: http://saintpeterbasilica.org

    The list of churches in Rome could be like a telephone directory of a small city.  It is impossible to mention all of them here.  Keep in mind that there is a dress code requirement for entering them and you must preclude from taking pictures while a religious ceremony is taking place.  Also they are quite dark and provide you a cool refuge from the Roman heat as well as a place to sit down and relax for a while.  Catholics have a saying that whenever you enter a church for the first time and you do a prayer you can ask for a favor….Your wish list in Rome could be quite lengthy. 

    Plazas: Rome give the impression of grow and live around plazas.  As you walk around you will not be able to avoid them: regular shaped or without any designs, small or big, old or new, crowded or strangely deserted.  The list here, like the churches, is large.  Almost every church has a plaza in front, or around it somewhere.  I would mention only about a dozen of them: Piazza de Spagna, San Pietro, Venezia, Navona, del Popolo, della Boca della Verita, del Quirinale, della Repubblica, di Santa Maria in Trastevere, del Campidoglio, dell’Esquilino, and Campo de Fiore.

    In the plazas you could find a place to eat or drink a cappuccino.  I would recommend to look for a gelateria (ice cream shop) mainly in Piazza Navona.  Also most of the plazas aside from one or more churches you will find also one or more fountains.  To sit around a fountain is one of the Romans preferred outings in the middle of the afternoon or early evenings.  Don’t forget the saying: “If in Rome do like the Romans”   

    Fountains: The fountains of Rome have been the subject of classical musical pieces or well known-movies.  Many of the fountains you will find in Rome were like public works constructed by the Popes for the benefit of the various sectors of the city. Likewise the list of plazas, I will offer only the names of few fountains that should be in any visitors' lists:  Starting, probably with the most worldwide famous fountain: The Fontana de Trevi.  This fountain together with the Triton Fountain in Barberini Square are the subject of two of the symphonic poems of Respighi, Fontane di Rome.

    We should mention also the three fountains in Piazza Navona: Four Rivers, the Moor and Neptune. There are beautiful and worth mentioning fountains in Piazza del Popolo and Nicosia.  There are numerous fountains in many of the plazas that are worth the visit and to enjoy their cool environment.

    One of my favorites is the small fountain at Santa Maria Cosmedin in the Forum Boarium, see picture of the fountain as well as the Temple of Hercules in the back.

    Ruins and Monuments:  Aside from churches, plazas and fountains the other ever present element of Rome are its ruins and classical monuments.  From the countless Egyptian obelysks to the classic roman buildings and monuments, your selection is overwhelming. They are everywhere!  The most famous probably is the Colisseum, followed by the Roman Forum.  I would recommend that you buy a combined ticket of admission covering these two points of interest plus the Palatine.  The Palatine is a place that most turists pass or simple ignore. 

    I strongly recommend that your itinerary includes these three attractions.  This time we tried to visit the Domus Aurea, the old ruins of Nero's palace next to the Colisseum, but unfortunately it was was closed that day.  Also among the recommended ruins you should visit are the Forum Imperiali and the Forum Boarium.  There is a beautiful old Roman monument well preserved in a modern museum: Ara Pacis Augustana.  Is an altar built by the Senate and People of Rome (SPQR) to conmemorate the peaceful era of Emperor Cesar Augusto.

    Outside Rome: Rome is a place that must be visited by everyone… but also visitors of Rome should adventure outside the City and go to places such as Tivoli, Amalfi Coast, or even Florence and Assissi.  

    The pictured attached is from Positano, the jewel of the Costiera Amalfitana.  To drive the Amalfi Coast that runs south of Sorrento, until the area around Salerno, will take a full day.  But it may be shortened by returning a short while after visiting Amalfi turning toward Naples through the interior highway and thus avoiding the slow traffic of the coastal winding road.

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     Practical Guidelines: 

     Let me end with some general guidelines: During this last trip we avoided the museums due to the long lines and by the fact that we have visited the major ones during earlier visits.  However, the Vatican Museums should be a priority for everyone visiting Rome.  

    Lodging: In our first visit to Rome in 1975, we stayed at D’Inghilterra, great location but we couldn’t afford it now.  We have stayed in far out places and in the middle of the city.  During our last trip we stayed at the Alimandi Tunisi about two blocks from the Vatican Museums.  This was a great experience and we highly recommend it.  However, the most important thing we would recommend about a hotel or pension in Rome is to find one that is close to a Metro station, this will provide you with the necessary mobility in this magnificent city. 

    Transportation: As we were planning to stay for six days we purchased at the Metro station a Carta Integrata Settimanale for Euro 16.  This allowed us free access to the Metro and all city trams and buses for our complete stay.  One of our best purchases ever!  We recommend that you obtain this pass as well as a Roma Metro-Bus map for Euro 6, in any newsstand as a companion guide to the pass.  That’s all you need to move around besides your own two feet wearing the most comfortable shoes you may have.  Try to stay away from flip flops or high heels.  The streets and pavement in Rome are quite uneven without considering the ancient cobbled streets and water running from a myriad of fountains around the city.

    Security: In Rome, like any other large city, you may run the risk of being pick pocked if the basic security steps are not observed.  Never carry valuables in your back pockets, carry your bags closely held next to your body, leave what you don’t need in a safe deposit in your hotel, carry copies of your passport, never put a bag in the floor or in an empty chair while you dine (regardless of the type of restaurant).  Avoid strangers that approach you with a map or a book or any article trying to show or ask you something.  Stay always alert.  We never have had a problem in Rome regarding our security!

    Accept the fact that you are going to be surrounded by hundred of thousand people living and visiting Rome at the same time that you are there.  If you don’t like people in your pictures of buildings, plazas, parks, etc. you need patience and creativeness.

    Enjoy the food and don't be afraid to drink water from any of the running fountains in Rome.  The water is fresh and safe, unless there is a post indicating that it is not good for drinking.

    Also, be prepared for the fact that Rome is not a  cheap place to visit.

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    Each of the pictures appearing on this journal is individually explained in detail under the "My Photos" section. As an alternative you may click the photos appearing here for expanded information.

     

     

     

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• Italy October 2007 part 4: fir

  • From: bouldergal
  • Description:

    StartFragment

    FLORENCE Sat Oct 13:  Our plan was to meet an American friend of someone in our group who lives in Florence at the McDonalds across from the train station (this McDonalds had an adjacent fancy-pasty-and-espresso room).  She showed us around most of the day.  We loved the Central Market, especially the indoor food market (which closes at 2pm), then walked past San Lorenzo and the Medici Chapel to the Monastery of San Marco, which has lovely frescoes in a beautifully restored state.  You can see the monks’ cells, including Savonarola’s apartment.  

    Then walked toward the Duomo.  The crowd in this square reminded us of the one in St Mark’s in Venice—“heaving” is the word that comes to mind.  Didn’t even get close to the bronze doors of the Baptistery.  The façade of the Duomo is stunning.  Walked from there through Piazza della Signoria to the Arno, enjoying the street artists and vendors.  

    Then to lunch at  Coquinarius, Via delle Oche 15, one block from Duomo, which is mentioned in the guidebooks, and which our friend and guide recommended.  The chef is a South African who offers traditional Tuscan items with a twist.  Then gelato at Gelateria Carabe, Via Ricasoli 60, also mentioned in the books, and our reserved tickets to the Academia.  The David is truly stunning, as is the series of unfinished statues, “the prisoners”, which precede it.  From there we wandered back toward the outdoor market at the train station.  The men went to an internet cafe while the women visited the antique Santa Maria Novella perfumery on Via Della Scala.   What an Old World experience that was.  Then back to the train and home.  Note:  I had seen the great museums in Florence on a trip many years earlier, and, except for the Accademia, my husband wasn’t that interested.  But if you want to see the Uffizi or the Palazzo Vecchio, definitely spend the extra money and effort to make a reservation.  The lines and crowds are unbelievable.  

    EndFragment

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