This trip actually began last June, when I was notified by email that I had won the Budget Travel Photo Contest with a photo I had taken in Costa Rica. My wife didn't even know I had submitted an entry, and she was in a meeting all afternoon, so I could not call her. We were meeting friends for dinner and had all of five minutes in the car together for me to inform her, "Um, honey, I have some news for you..." She screamed and quickly responded, "Well, I guess we know how we're going to use our furlough days this year!"
After doing our research, we settled on a region (southwest Ireland) and a time frame (October, after the high season but before it gets too cold). I worked with Una at Sceptre Tours to iron out the details, and before we knew it we were on our way.
We flew directly into Shannon, arriving at 7:00 a.m. on a Friday morning with a full day ahead of us. A friend had told us how beautiful it was to fly into Shannon where you could see all the green as you were landing. Well, at 7:00 a.m. on an October morning, the sun had yet to rise and it was still pitch black. Not to mind, we got our rental car and hit the ground running (that is, with a little adjustment for getting used to driving on the left side of the road). First stop: Galway. Although it was raining, we weren't going to let a little rain deter us from having fun. After stopping at the TI, we walked through Eyre Square (aka John F. Kennedy Park) and explored the old town center. We stepped inside the
Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, where I was impressed with the testament to the Widow Jane Eyre's generosity, commemorated on a plaque. We then walked, struggling to keep our umbrellas open against the wind and the rain, to the much
more modern Galway Cathedral. This is a cathedral you want to visit during the day so you can better see and appreciate a more modern approach to stained glass artwork. Keep an eye out for the Irish Holy Family, where Mary is knitting and Jesus is offering tea to Joseph. Also look for the mosaic
(hidden the day we were there behind a curtain, but that did not stop us) of John F. Kennedy. Needing some lunch, we found our way to Busker Brownes, where my wife had Aubergine and Sweet Potato Gratin and I had delicious Irish Seafood Chowder, accompanied by tasty brown soda bread. We did not want to sit too long and let our jet lag overcome us, so we got back to our car and pushed on, driving northwest toward Letterfrack and the Kylemore Abbey. One of the best ways to combat jet lag is to spend time outdoors, and so our first activity at Kylemore was to tour the walled garden. Still nice in October, this must be even more beautiful in the middle of summer. The Abbey itself is lovely, though only a few rooms are open to tour.
Also on the grounds is a small Neo-Gothic church,
which is also worth a visit. Finishing at the Abbey, we still had a relatively short drive to Clifden and our first night accommodations at the Abbeyglen Castle Hotel. We checked in, dropped our bags in our room, and then walked about a mile into town to find a light supper. Back at the hotel, we headed downstairs to a common room where we thought we could sit by a fire and write in our journals. Ha! The combination of the warmth of the fire and the full day of touring, on top of our jet lag, and we were both dozing after writing only a sentence or two. However, it was also very effective: we got to bed early, got a full night's sleep, and when we woke up in the morning, we were both effectively over our jet lag.
Saturday morning we woke up to the first of our full Irish breakfasts: a lavish buffet spread of cereals, yogurt, fresh fruit, rolls, eggs, bacon, sausage, and the traditional Irish accompaniments of grilled tomatoes and black and white pudding. Although we had another full day
ahead of us, we decided we did not have to be held hostage to our agenda and allowed ourselves to backtrack a bit, driving back towards Letterfrack and the Connemara National Park. The sun was shining and it was a beautiful day to
hike, so we took the trail to the top of Diamond Hill. This wasn't the Ireland I was expecting: instead of the lush greens one hears about, this area was still beautiful but much more in shades of brown. Partly this was due to the season, but also the geography, as the terrain is very wet and boggy. We made it to the top of the hill, and were rewarded with wonderful views both of the harbor and of Kylemore Abbey from above. Once back in the car, already past noon, we headed out towards our next destination: back past
Galway and on to the Burren. The Burren is a region of massive outcroppings of rock that have been scoured by glaciers, rich in archaeological sites, the most famous of which is the Poulnabrone Dolmen. One look at this landscape and it is no wonder why there are so many stone fences and stone buildings in this country. It was getting late, and we had one more goal for this day: to get to the Cliffs of Moher. I had hoped we'd have a beautiful sunset looking out over the Atlantic from the
cliffs, but although the sunset itself was obscured by fog, it was still light when we arrived and we enjoyed the day dwindling away to twilight
while there. After another full day, we recognized the wisdom of our chioce to go in October: pleasant weather for hiking and no crowds to contend with. Saturday was the night of our castle stay, so we drove (now in the dark) back to Dromoland. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that they had upgraded us from a standard to a deluxe room. This is not your drafty medieval castle: the room was quite spacious and luxurious. Sunday morning I went for a run on the castle grounds, through a wooded area where I came upon (and frightened) many pheasant.
Friday and Saturday were both extremely full days, but this was our
first time in Ireland and we wanted to see everything. Recognizing the need to slow down a bit, we had planned to spend two nights at our next stop: Kinsale. Driving south past Cork on Sunday we got our first taste of the beautiful green countryside that Ireland is so famous for. As the sun breaks through the clouds, the lush green fields just pop out at
you. Kinsale very much has a small-town feel, located on a beautiful, well-protected harbor, rich in history. It is one of Ireland's "Tidy Towns," a competition first launched by Bord Failte in an effort to improve the appearance of towns and villages throughout the country for the main tourist season. In addition to just wandering the streets and exploring the shops and restaurants, we took the "Historic Stroll in Old Kinsale." Our guide, Barry, was a wealth of information about the history of Kinsale, from the occupation by the Spanish Armada to the
nearby sinking of the Lusitania, including stories as well of the real Robinson Crusoe. Fun side trips included Charles Fort across the harbor and the Cobh Heritage Center, about a 45-minute
drive. Our mainstay through most of Ireland was basic pub food, which we enjoyed, but in Kinsale ("the Gourmet Capital of Ireland"), we had to try a nicer restaurant. We couldn't have been happier than with a visit to Jim Edwards, where we had a delicious meal of grilled salmon.
Barry, our tour guide on the "Historic Stroll in Old Kinsale"
I only had a brief time away from a conference to do a walking tour of the Boston Commons. I was amazed at how beautiful the grounds are and the historic significance of the site. In addition to this lake, there are statues, monuments, and sculptures among other attractions. It is well worth the time spent there, especially if it is on a crisp autumn day like this one.
New York Ave. Presbyterian Church began to be built in the 1700's and was frequented by 16 US Presidents, including Abe Lincoln. They still have his original pew. A Historic Landmark in Washington, D.C.
Before “diving in” (pun intended) to describing my new favorite beach town, I’d like to share the update that several items listed in the “20 Ideas for Saving Money” post qualified as winning ideas for the local contest sponsored by frugal-columnist Ms. Cheap at the Tennessean, Nashville's daily newspaper. I had the pleasure of meeting Ms. Cheap last Monday at a brown bag lunch session where she announced the contest winners, who each happily received a signed copy of her new book, 99 Things to Save Money in Your Household Budget.
Ms. Cheap would certainly have approved of the frugal, excellent long weekend Adam and I took in Florida the weekend before – in which we drove from Nashville, stayed with friends, and avoided the expensive theme parks for two days of sun, swimming, grilling, and exploring (and of course, in my case, preparing homemade nectarine salsa and Carolina cole slaw to add some flair to the cookout). One of the highlights of the weekend was the day we spent in St. Augustine, meeting friends at Anastasia State Park.
This was my second time to St. Augustine, but my first time to this particular beach – a private beach with $8.00 per car fee, but well worth the cost for the natural, clean, and minimal-tourist experience. The water was warm, the white sand was soft, and the waves were perfect for bodysurfing, football, frisbee-throwing, and catching rays. The facilities were particularly convenient, with outdoor sand showers, picnic tables, and a convenience store where I was able to find a pair of sunglasses, and Adam a pair of swim shorts, both quite nice, at the last minute and at a decent price.
After a day at the beach, we were starving, and headed to the historic downtown St. Augustine to A1A Aleworks Brewery & Restaurant for some local brew and a meal on the second-level patio overlooking Matanzas Bay. The restaurant, describes itself as a working brewery serving "New World Cuisine featuring Caribbean, Cuban and Floridian influences,” was everything I had anticipated. We ordered a sampler flight of 2-oz. beers that we happily sipped, watching the sun set, with a basket of warm bread on the house. Although we were not in lobster country, I was too intrigued by the lobster tacos (off the appetizer menu) which turned out to be amazing.
Although I’m usually one to plan my vacations meticulously to put together a combination of the absolute best street ambience, restaurants, scenic areas, and quaint architecture, I came upon St. Augustine completely by accident this past April while traveling in Florida for work. After following up the winter with a particularly draining work schedule, I was yearning for relaxation and the beach, and St. Augustine was the closest to my location. One evening after work I drove an hour to the coast, and once I entered the historic downtown, I was hooked. I entered a world of Spanish architectural style, from the Cathedral of St. Augustine, to Flagler College, to the narrow, cobblestoned streets dotted with boutiques, cafes, and restaurants specializing in international dishes ranging from French pastry, to Polish pierogi, to fish and chips, to Mayan cuisine. Deep into the town were historic structures, beautiful private residences and B&B’s.
While the gulf-coast beach towns where I spent much of my youth had a laid-back, fishing-village, shanty-town feel (which is a great escape in its own right), St. Augustine offered more of a high-end atmosphere perfect for a more luxurious experience after a sun-drenched day, while having many diversions that were surprisingly affordable. On my brief evening after work, I was entertained simply enjoying the street life while munching a pastry, peeking inside the Cathedral, and browsing the shops. I made my only purchase at a store specializing in all things hot sauce, Hot Stuff Mon, I bought some specialty sauce made from locally-grown Datil peppers and an orange-and-Datil Minorcan spice mixture, which we are still enjoying here at home. ![]()
I topped off my evening with dinner at Casa Maya for authentic Mayan cuisine (from bottom left, clockwise): Pork marinated in sour orange juice and axiote basted in mayan spices, black bean soup, candied plantains, tortillas, and Mayan rice.
Returning for a second time in September confirmed my newfound love for this jewel of a town in northeastern Florida, where I hope to return again soon to continue exploring the culinary delights, museums, and historic structures between lazy days at the beach.
Where to eat:
A1A Aleworks Brewery & Restuarant, 1 King Street, St. Augustine, FL 32084, (904) 829-2977
Casa Maya Organic Mayan Cuisine, 17 Hypolita Street, St. Augustine, FL 32084, (904) 829-3039
Denoel French Pastry Shop, 212 Charlotte Street, St. Augustine, FL 32084, (904) 829-3974
What to see and do:
Anastasia State Park, 200 Anastasia Park Rd, St. Augustine, FL 32080, (904) 461-2033
Hot Stuff Mon, 34 Treasury Street, St. Augustine, FL 32084, (904) 824-4944
Castillo de San Marcos National Monument (America’s Oldest Stone Fort), 1 S Castillo Dr, St. Augustine, FL 32084
St. Mary's church in the city square in the historic center of Krakow is the most beautiful church I have seen in Europe (including St Peter's and Notre Dame). And the Main Square in nthe city center is full of beautiful architecture, restaurants, and shopping. The Cloth Hall is a great place to pick up local crafts and the Town Hall Tower give you a great panoramic view of the city.
The campus of Lewis and Clark Community College in Godfrey, Illinois. This beautiful old church was moved to this site, has you see it steeple and all, from across and down the street . Then set on a new foundation here. It was amazing to see this huge building rolling down the street.
An historic, massive wine press caught our attention while we toured the Codorniu Vineyard just outside of Barcelona, Spain.
This spider was working on the most amazing web in the front of this historic springhouse.
This is a photo of one of the walks outside the Royal Governor's Palace in Historic Colonial Williamsburg (Virginia).
Formerly the Babson Farm granite quarry, the park is managed for scenic, historic and conservation purposes by the DCR and the Trustees of Reservations. An adjacent property, Sea Rocks, is owned by the Town of Rockport and open for public use. Here you can explore the park's trails and tidepools, picnic on its rocky ledges, enjoy its sweeping views, and learn about Cape Ann's historic granite industry
View overlooking the Forum and Colosseum in Rome, Italy
Taken at English Camp Natioanal Historic Monument San Juan Island Washington
One of the largest and most historic churches in this country is in St. Paul, Minnesota.
This is THE House Of 7 Gables (Turner-Ingersoll Mansion) made famous in the Nathaniel Hawthorn novel of the same name. Located on the historic waterfront of the Salem Mass. harbor. Also of note: Nathaniel Hawthorn birthplace house has been moved and re-contructed just a few feet away, and it is open to tour through also.
A statue that we encountered on a road trip
Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, St Augustine, FL
Photo taken in April of 2009
Castillo de San Marcos National Monument, in historic downtown St. Augustine, is the oldest masonry, and only standing 17th century fort, in America. The monument site spans 20.5 acres, including parts of a town wall, erected in 1704.
About an hour south of Jacksonville is historic St. Augustine, a historic world of Spanish architectural style, from the Cathedral of St. Augustine, Flagler College, to the narrow, cobblestoned streets dotted with boutiques, cafes, and restaurants specializing in international dishes ranging from French pastry, to Polish pierogi, to fish and chips, to Mayan cuisine. Deep into the town were historic structures, beautiful private residences and B&B’s.
Information:
Castillo de San Marcos NM
1 South Castillo Drive
St. Augustine, FL 32084
http://www.nps.gov/CASA/index.htm
Visitor Information
(904) 829-6506
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Me and my husband first went to Savannah for my graduation, so we did not have a lot of time to explore the city. However we were captivated by the historic district as well as the riverfront. This led us to go back for the July 4th weekend. The riverwalk was crowded and my god it was hot and steamy, but we had a Wonderful time. I am a great history buff and I loved the tours. I found the best bang for our buck was to take a tour that allowed us on and off service until 5pm on the day of the tour and all day up to 5pm on the day after the tour (this was a great value at only $15 per person). We took advantage of this and was able to see more of the city. As a matter of fact we stayed at the Westin and really did not move our car any while we were there. Savannah's river front has a free ferry boat that takes you across the river up to about 1am. We also took a Ghost tour, it was great we got to actually go inside one of the houses. My husband would not like me to say this, but he actually abandoned me while we were in the house. It was so funny, he said I am out of here and all I seen was his back. I laughed all night. There is also a free trolley that takes you up and down the riverwalk. We actually got to eat at Paula Deens by making reservations while our tour was stopped at the stop sign. The food was delicious. Another great soulfood (southern style) restauarant is the Pirates House. Most of the restaurants are reasonable, however we also found it is a good idea if you do not see the prices listed for the specials please be sure to ask or your check may have a special surprise waiting for you. I am not well-off or rich by any means, so I find it necessary to know what I am getting for my money. $40 dollars a day is great if you have a larger budget, but I advise you to use it for resource rather than a budget plan. When you begin to mutiply 40 times 2, 3, or 4 it can become rather expensive. Most of us live in a world were we may need to feed the family on $40 a day. Anyway, I got a little off base. Back to Savannah, I love it. I witnessed people of all ages enjoying themselves even in the heat. Although, there was an instance that we witnessed a gentleman of about 5 years old ask his parents "mom, dad why can't we take a cab?" Now at that time it was so hot, I would have asked can we share?
Tonopah Queen of the Silver Camps
(click on the pictures for a larger view, more content and to rate my pictures please)
I had a meeting last week in Tonopah, Nevada, located almost exactly half way between Las Vegas and Reno on U.S. Highway 95. I pulled into town one hour before my meeting and since the sun was already getting low in the western sky, I decided to drive around this “city” of about 3,000 people and make a few pictures. The word Tonopah means greasewood water in the language of the Western Shoshone who lived in the region for more than a millennium before its settlement by the white miners who came seeking gold, silver, and other riches.
One of the highlights in town is the old Mizpah Hotel, which opened its doors for business in 1908. Although it looks grand in this picture, it has been vacant for several years, and was just recently sold (again) at auction. This five story building was at one time the finest hotel between Denver and San Francisco. The new owners plan to reopen the historic 57-room hotel in 2010. Across the street is another five story structure, now called the Belvada Hotel, which was originally a bank, offices, and apartments.
On the main drag (Highway 95) the A-Bar-L Western Store continues to operate with the abandoned mines and tailing rising from their back door. Much of Tonopah has been built on the tailings (waste rock) of the old mine workings.
Down the street, you can find the same types of entertainment that the miners enjoyed more than a century ago. On the north side of town is an old abandoned brothel that has sat vacant for more than a decade.
Tonopah was built by mining and is still known as the Queen of the Silver Camps.
The town hosts the Tonopah Historic Mining Park which covers more than 100 acres and is dedicated to the acquisition, restoration, and display of mining artifacts. It only costs $5 to take the
walking tour ($4 if you spend the night in Tonopah), which is well worth it to learn about the hardships miners faced in the old west, and their ingenuity in extracting ore to meet the nations needs for silver and other metals.
Mining has always been a dangerous profession, even for the toughest of men. Stop by the U.S. Post Office and you can view the memorial to Big Bill Murphy and the tragedy of the Belmont Mine Fire in 1911.
Big Bill died as he tried to rescue more of his fellow miners after he returned into the mine one time too many. A beautiful mural on a wall adjacent to the post office depicts the funeral procession for the victims of the fire. Across the street and up the block is a memorial to Stealth aircraft that were first tested at the U.S. Air Force Tonopah Test Range, just northeast of town.
As the shadows lengthened I stumbled across this piece of graffiti that carried a message I didn’t really expect to see in
Tonopah. Tonopah and Nye County are both pretty libertarian and voted solidly for Ron Paul in the last Republican primary. While the message sounds libertarian, their signs are always in written in good old red, white, and blue block letters, not in the violet script in which this message was written. It gave me pause so I decided to make a picture of it and share the thought. Make of it what you will.
If you are too tired to make it to Vegas or Reno, don’t try. There are plenty of rooms in Tonopah but they fill up soon after the sun sets so don’t procrastinate. My favorite is the Jim Butler Inn and Suites (see it at http://www.jimbutlerinn.com ). Jim Butler made the silver strike that started mining in Tonopah and was one of the city founders. Legend has it that the prospector’s burro wandered off, and Jim picked up a rock to throw at the ornery beast when he noticed that the rock felt too heavy for its size. He took some samples for assay and the boom town of Tonopah soon resulted. More than $150 million dollars of silver were produced from the camp between 1900 and 1940.
Have you always wanted a lamp made out of moose antler or an elk antler chandelier? Not to worry, you can get yours in Tonopah…see Jim Daine at http://www.jimdaine.com/ and place your order for one with rawhide shades. As Jim says, they speak for themselves.
If you do decide to spend the night in Tonopah, make sure you get outdoors to enjoy one of the most spectacular night time skies you will ever witness. In fact, Tonopah is rated the #1 destination in the United States for stargazing. For more info visit: http://www.tonopahstartrails.com/ .
For more on Tonopah, its rich history, businesses, and attractions you can visit the town’s web page at http://www.tonopahnevada.com/about.html . Stop by and enjoy!
The Shambles is a historic street in the York. Once named for its many butcher shops, the Shambles are now home to scads of tiny stores. The old century buildings are so old they are practically leaning on each other for support.