My photo of Manarola, italy, was on the cover of the June 2008 issue of Budget Travel Magazine.
I love me some Italy.
While hiking the Cinque Terre, I turned and snapped this beautiful picture of Manarola, Italy. The second town in Cinque Terre, Manarola has tiny streets and stairways, panini bars and pizzerias and small boats and natural swimming pools.
Photos from my weekend in Cinque Terre, Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore - one of the prettiest (and least touristy) of the 5 villages, in my opinion
Photos from my weekend in Cinque Terre, Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore - one of the prettiest (and least touristy) of the 5 villages, in my opinion
Photos from my weekend in Cinque Terre, Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore - one of the prettiest (and least touristy) of the 5 villages, in my opinion
In the middle of our 2 week long trip to crowded Italian cities, my husband and I spent 2 glorious days in the largely undiscovered Cinque Terre. In the two days we spent on the hiking trails we could count the other hikers on 2 hands. It was a joy to be so alone in the midst of such stunning scenery. The views of the Ligurian Sea are breathtaking and the approach to each of the towns--jaw-dropping. The landscape is punctuated with houses of color---red, yellow, ochre—that all look like they could crumble into a pile and tumble into the blue sea at any moment. The Five (Cinque) towns, each have distinctive features but they all have one thing in common. Fantastic views…….This view of Manarola was taken from a special perch—the local cemetery. Seems that the dearly departed were afforded the best views!
This is a picture taken from our balcony in a great little apartment in Manarola, Cinque Terre. These villages are absolutely fantastic although it takes some effort to figure out how to get there.
This photo was taken from the Cinque Terre trail as we were approaching Vernazza - one of the five colorful towns. We were very tired after hiking all day, beginning at Riomaggiore in the moring and continuing to Manarola, Corniglia and finally , after the touhgest part of the hike - Vernazza. We walked down a steep stairway into the town where we found little notices about rooms for rent posted on the walls. We were lucky to find a cute room with a terrace overlooking the city - practically all the way back up to the trail. Vernazza was a fun place to stay overnight. We walked down to the little harbor where some children were swimming and some old gentlemen fishing. The central piazza was full of brightly painted fishing boats which apparently are pulled out of the water when not in use. Lots of fun looking restaurants surround the piazza but we were disappointed in the one we chose as far as food quality. The little Foccaccio shops up the lane had much better pizza and foccaccio - and were a lot cheaper. We found an excellent bakery at the back of town which had the best chocolate croissanats ever!
To celebrate the twentieth anniversary of our first date, my husband and I took a trip we'd long talked about but never gotten around to planning - a journey to Italy. It was difficult deciding which areas of Italy to see, but we finally chose the Cinque Terre, Tuscany, and Rome. To say our trip surpassed my wildest dreams would be an understatement. Welcome to our Italian adventure!
After flying into Milan, it took several trains to reach the Cinque Terre (which means Five Lands), but it was completely worth venturing off the beaten path to visit this quaint, charming, and friendly coastal area of Italy. The Cinque Terre consists of five small hillside towns that each looks like it's literally spilling into the ocean. The towns have all been in existence since Medieval times and have the ancient lookout towers and historic stone churches to prove it. The shops are quaint, the people are friendly, and the views are breathtaking. We especially enjoyed just roaming the streets, as well as the twisting stairs and alleyways (which also qualify as streets in a place as old as the towns of the Cinque Terre,) taking pictures of lovely archways and windows, and watching the locals hanging their laundry out as they conversed from window to window.
Getting Around the Cinque Terre
Don't expect taxis here, and whatever you do, don't plan on renting a car. In the Cinque Terre, there are three options: trains, hiking, and boats (although boats may not be available year round.) Oceanside trails passing through olive groves and terraced vineyards connect the five towns of Monterossa, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and are a lovely way to travel - but be warned, the trails get progressively more difficult the farther north you go. So, based on your hiking ability, we advise hiking between the more southern towns and taking the train between the northern towns. We used the low-priced Cinque Terre Treno Card, which admits you to both the trails and the trains. And we sometimes found the train schedules difficult to follow in the Cinque Terre, so when arriving at the station, we advise asking a clerk when the next train to your destination is due. Overall, the trains are a pretty easy way to hop between the towns if you choose not to hike or tire of it.
Where To Stay in the Cinque Terre 
We chose to make the town of Manarola our home base. It's the least touristy of the towns and we found our hotel, the Ca' d'Andrean simple but perfect for our stay. It's a steep walk up the hill with luggage, but worth it for the view of lemon trees and terraced hillside gardens out our shuttered window each morning. The staff here was especially helpful in mapping out future parts of our trip. For nice, clean accommodations, we highly recommend the Hotel Ca' d'Andrean.
While Manarola was our favorite, when we visit the Cinque Terre again, we will gladly consider staying in any of the other towns.
Highlights of our Time in the Cinque Terre
We found something truly unique and delightful at every turn in the Cinque Terre, so it's hard to narrow it down, but here are a few faves:
Cinque Terre Fun Facts
Finding Romance in the Cinque Terre
Romance was pretty much everywhere here, but here are a few tips for romantic moments with your significant other:
If you want to stop and smell the roses - or the sweet scents of lemon trees and lavender in the air - schedule some time for the Cinque Terre in your trip to Italy. We spent only two and a half days there and wished we'd had more time to simply soak up the slow-paced seaside charm of this traditional slice of Italy. Italian charm at its best.
Under the Tuscan Sun
From the Cinque Terre, we took the train to LaSpezia, where we rented a car. Warning: Driving a car in any sizable Italian city is a challenge when you can't read the signs and don't know the general rules and customs of the road. But once you get out of the city into more rural areas, driving is fine.
Our plan to drive through Tuscany, hitting as many hill towns as possible along the way, worked out well. We spent two days meandering the twisting roads across rolling gold and green hills, stopping to soak up Medieval history along the way. It was amazing to be driving along and suddenly see an ancient fortified city appear in the distance.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
We made our home base at the Castel Bigossi, a lovely thousand-year-old castle in the heart of Tuscany near the fort town of Monteriggioni. It was off the beaten path, but we enjoyed the drive through the countryside, dotted with still more historic towns, each time we returned there. The exterior and grounds of the Castel Bigossi were lovely - the perfect Tuscan postcard - and the staff was friendly, talkative, and helpful. The interior was an unusual mix of modernity (spiral staircases and an elevator) and history (ancient wood beams on the ceiling of our bedroom) and all the rooms in the castel are spacious suites - more room than we needed, but we didn't mind. This would be a great place to stay for a longer visit than the two nights we spent there.
Other thoughts on accommodations: Tuscany also boasts many agriturismos - these are working farms that also provide bed-and-breakfast type accommodations. And if you're more of a city person, all the hill towns offer rooms, as well.
Getting Around Tuscany by Car
Like I said above, once you're away from traffic, driving is a breeze, but be warned: Italian street signs and American street signs differ greatly. In Italy, roads are not marked with any sort of name or number, so it's hard to tell where you are most of the time, even when following a map. You are instead guided by arrows that point the way to the nearest town in any direction, and these tend to appear in groups at the frequent roundabouts.
Also, be prepared for crazy drivers who will merrily pass on blind curves and motorcycle riders who consider it perfectly acceptable to pass between two cars without a lane. Our advice: Drive safely and normally, but be on guard.
The Tuscan landscape is dotted with lots of Medieval hill towns, each with its own personality. Meandering through these places was fascinating not only because we were walking streets and seeing buildings that have been there for nearly a thousand years, but also because these are all still thriving communities where people live and work. Wandering the stone streets and piazzas, I expected to see knights in shining armor come riding up on horseback any minute.
It would be difficult to see all the hill towns in the region (yes, there are that many,) so we picked a few that sounded especially appealing based on guidebooks and advice from our hotel staff. A few of our favorites were:
Note: As hill towns go, Siena is the largest in the region and pretty much considered a must-see. Personally, we were disappointed by how modern and commercialized even the historic part of town is (Foot Lockers and other American mall-type stores lined the stone streets.) But it's still worth a stop for the stunning Duomo, dating from 1215, and the huge Piazza Il Campo where a wild, no-rules horse race is run every July and August.
But Back to the Rolling Tuscan Hillsides 
We made a small project out of locating some of the best-known postcard views of Tuscany's cypress-lined roads - a task made more difficult by the lack of road signs. However, before leaving home, we Googled on the topic and found other travelers' notes on how to reach some of these scenic spots. Finding them felt like a special victory! But with or without them, we came home with countless pictures of fields teeming with red poppies, villas flanked by vineyards, and some lovely cypress-lined roads we stumbled across on our own.
Note: As we traveled the winding roads that criss-cross Tuscany, we were kept company by the abundance of American music on the radio - everything from Dionne Warwick to Bruce Springsteen to Green Day.
Finding Romance in Tuscany
Romance is pretty easy to find in Tuscany, too, but here are some recommendations:
Tuscany is a must-see for those who enjoy lovely, rolling landscapes. The rich Medieval history and striking hill towns are wonderful perks to this region teeming with romantic ambience.
All Roads Lead to Rome
All roads may lead to Rome, but here's a tip: leave your rental car at the airport and take the train into the city. Even that was a bit of a challenge - remember, Italians don't seem to value signage as much as we do in America - but it was still by far the best choice.
You can look at Rome in two ways: it's a zoo or it's a party. Choose the party attitude and you'll have a much better time. This large, busy city seemed to have as many pedestrians as cars, and it was usually unclear who had the right of way, especially on small streets left over from older times.
Getting Around Rome
To walk or take the train around town? It's a toss-up. Rome is a walking city, but things are often farther away than they appear and you can put many a mile on your sneakers by day's end. On the other hand, some of the subway terminals were confusing to navigate and had broken ticket machines, or they were far enough out of the way that it just seemed simpler to walk.
The streets are confusing - remember, this is a very old city, full of twists and turns. Our advice: Follow the signs toward major landmarks and don't be frustrated if you get lost. On one particular evening, after listening to street musicians for a while at the popular Piazza Navonna, we started the twisting trek toward our hotel, following signs and making good progress - we thought - until, about fifteen minutes later, we emerged right back onto the Piazza Navonna. We just looked at each other and cracked up laughing.
Where to Stay
We made our home in Rome the LaResidenzia Hotel, near the Via Venetta, a major thoroughfare. Despite the fact that two lap dance clubs sit directly across the street from the hotel, we were very happy with our choice - which is to say we never really saw any traffic at the clubs and they seemed very quiet. Like our other Italian accommodations, the staff was knowledgeable and friendly. Sitting areas in the lobby were spacious and elegant, our room was nice with lots of storage and a turn-down service, and a pretty good breakfast buffet was included in the price of the room.
Ancient Rome - Walking Through History 
If you're a history lover, this is why you're here. We loved the Colesseum and the Forum, as well as Palatine Hill (where many Roman rulers built their palaces.) Our advice: It's worth it to pay for the tours here. Not only do you get good, interesting information along the way, if you enter with a tour, you bypass the long lines to get in.
We spent a couple of hours roaming around the Colesseum, and more time outside, just taking pictures and enjoying the ambience of the area. As this was a sight I'd only dreamed of seeing, it felt almost surreal to actually be there. I had the same reaction to the Roman Forum and enjoyed knowing I was walking the same paths Julius Caesar and so many other historic figures had traveled. I found myself wanting to take a picture at every step to be sure I captured it all, and I truly felt the impact of being in the cradle of modern Western civilization.
Roaming Around Rome
Of course, there's much more to see here than just the ancient ruins. We enjoyed sitting on the Spanish steps, hanging out at the Trevi Fountain, touring the Pantheon (an amazing piece of ancient architecture,) and taking in the views from the Victor Immanuel Monument (although not as famous as some stops in Rome, you can't miss it on your way to the Colesseum - it's an enormous building that looks like a giant wedding cake.)
Rome is filled with countless piazzas - or town squares - both great and small, and each has it's own personality. Some are large, sporting numerous cafes, shops, fountains, and street artists, while others are smaller and less busy. It was fun to be walking along a narrow street and suddenly exit into another new piazza and see what it had to offer.
Adventures at the Vatican
How many people can say they've been kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica? I don't know, but we are now among that number. More to come on that in a moment.
First, some facts. This is another place where it's wise to pay extra and enter with a tour group - it cut our wait considerably and we truly got a lot out of the tour. Also, you must where clothing that covers your shoulders and knees to be admitted to St. Peter's Basilica.
Our tour covered St. Peter's Square, the Basilica, and the Vatican museum, including the Sistine Chapel. Upon entering the Basilica, we'd barely gotten started when an angry man approached our tour guide and began yelling at her in Italian. She reported that we were being thrown out because he didn't believe we were a real tour group and that she'd bring us back later. Weird but true, and we never did really understand what happened there. But on with the show.
We were, honestly, a little let down by the Sistine Chapel, which I'd long looked forward to seeing. It's an amazing piece of art, yes, but the ceiling is higher than I'd envisioned, so it's really pretty difficult to see. The whole room was packed with people craning their necks to try to take it in, which made everyone prone to bumping into each other. Plus you can't take pictures (understandable) and you can't talk (less understandable.)
After the chapel, it was back to the church, but we had to pretend we were not a tour group. (Again, confusing, I know.) But we enjoyed the un-tour of the basilica and were taken aback by the scope and size. Particularly notable items in the church: the famous Pieta by Michelangelo, the enormous canopy marking the (official but who knows) burial spot of St. Peter, and a statue of St. Peter to which, tradition holds, one should hold onto the toe, make three wishes, and they will come true.
One nice thing about being kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica: when we returned, hours had passed, and the sun shone through small windows in the dome, casting a heavenly glow on the floor, which made for amazing photos.
A Few Tips for Your Time in Rome
Finding Romance in Rome
Rome is busier and a bit more challenging in ways, but you still need not look far for romance here:
Ah, Rome. Two-thousand years of history and culture and architecture. It's a lot to take in, but it would be a crime to visit Italy without fully embracing it's exciting, bustling capital.
Ciao!
We travel a lot, but our trip to Italy was truly the romantic adventure of a lifetime.
Final tip: Take your time exploring romantic Italy, and eat a lot of gelato because it's just not as good at home, no matter what anyone says.
The chugga-chugga clackety-clack of the train changes to a loud whoosh as we enter another long, dank tunnel en route to Riomaggiore, the southernmost village in the Cinque Terre. With all the windows open to allow circulation in the stuffy car, wind whips the curtains about, striking startled passengers in the face. The tunnel smells of musty basement and salty sea.
Popping out of a tunnel, the train rounds a curve in the tracks and I see the next village before us. Buildings, like pastel colored Legos stacked atop one another, jut out of the cliff side. Far below, the turquoise Mediterranean Sea turns cerulean and navy as it stretches toward the horizon.
Finally, the train reaches Riomaggiore. A long tunnel walkway decorated with mosaic tiles leads town from the train station. Emerging from the tunnel, my friends and I pause and take a look around. The main thoroughfare, Via Colombo, steeply winds its way up the center of town. Bins of fresh fruits and vegetables sit outside a small grocery store. College students bearing enormous backpacks pass us, and continue up the street.
We have arrived.
In the midst of Liguria, the Italian Riviera, the five fishing villages of the Cinque Terre (five lands) perch along the cliffs of western Italy between Levanto and La Spezia. A train line connects the villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore, which are virtually inaccessible by car. The only automobiles I encountered in Riomaggiore were an ambulance and a van carrying produce. Visitors and natives alike get around on foot.
The primary reason tourists flock to the Cinque Terre is to hike. Trails connect all five of the villages and can be traversed in one day for a fee of three euros. Just about everyone who comes to visit the Cinque Terre will tackle at least one leg of the trek between villages. Grueling at points, it is well worth the effort for the breathtaking scenery to be found along the way. Start early in the morning to avoid crowds of hikers and midday heat.
Beginning in Riomaggiore, it is only a 20-30 minute stroll along the Via del Amore (walk of love) to reach Manarola. Looking back at Riomaggiore or northward toward the other villages, the view is stunning. Pause for a minute to look at the cerulean Sea and watch frothy, white capped waves crash against the cliffs. This section of trial is perfect for a sunset stroll.
Manarola is much like Riomaggiore. The boxy pastel buildings all seemed jammed on top of one another as if a cubist painted the city into the cliff. From Manarola the path veers away from the coast culminating in a steep climb up the terraced hillside to Corniglia. In Corniglia my friends and I lost the path. After wandering through town to a dead end overlooking the water, we asked a woman in a souvenir shop for directions. From Corniglia on we began passing the same hikers and having them pass us, like a game of leapfrog, for the remainder of the hike. Later in the day, it seemed more people were out and the narrow trails began to feel congested at times.
The track from Corniglia to Vernazza winds in and out amongst vineyards and back out to cliffside views of the dazzling Mediterranean Sea. This portion of the hike becomes more challenging as the path seems to be leading further and further up into the mountains. Along this stretch, my friends and I met a family from Minneapolis, MN. At the same
resting point way up above Corniglia, we stopped and took pictures for each other. Two days later on a train to Rome, we sat by the same family and shared war stories about our respective vacations in Italy.
Vernazza is the most distinctive-looking of the five villages. Here my friends and I stopped for lunch. Sitting on the pier with the remains of an 11th Century castle at its furthest point, we guzzled icy cold water and devoured soft, buttery focaccia, mozzarella and tomato sandwiches. For one euro you can climb the staircase in the castle, called Castello Doria, for another incredible view.
The final leg of the trail, from Vernazza to Monterosso, rivals any Stairmaster workout. Stone steps wind up into the cliffs leaving the Sea behind. Traipsing through vineyards, you eventually begin the steep decent back to the waters edge. Although it only takes approximately 1 and ½ hours, it feels like longer. When we reached Monterosso, we went straight to the beach and took a cool off swim. The sand of the beach was darker and the pull of the current much stronger in the Sea than I had experienced in the French Riviera.
Aside from hiking, the Cinque Terre offers the opportunity to go boating, scuba diving or sunbathing. Monterosso boasts the largest public sand beach of the five villages; Vernazza has a small sandy beach, while the rocks along the Sea provide ample space for sunbathers in the other villages. In Riomaggiore, Coopsub Cinqueterre Diving Center rents scuba and snorkel equipment and offers guided dives anywhere along the coast.
Over the past ten to fifteen years, the Cinque Terre has become a destination of choice in Europe. Todd Whitaker, a 27-year old mortgage broker from Watkinsville, Georgia, went to Cinque Terre for a day trip while staying in Pisa this fall. He said it was
“definitely the best day trip [they] took the entire vacation” which included stops in Paris, Avignon, Nice, Monte Carlo and Monaco.
Aside from the hiking, what sets the villages of the Cinque Terre apart from other destinations is its unique setting tucked into the side of the mountain and the picturesque beauty of each individual town. Laundry hangs drying on window clotheslines. Villagers sit outside their places of business chatting and greeting passersby with an amiable “Ciao.” Restaurant windows are left open, and people strolling past will stop for a chat with owners or diners. “The people were friendly, and most owners sat down with us to chat for at least a few minutes,” remembers Kellie Pelletier, a public relations account supervisor in New York City, who visited this fall. “One extremely good looking waiter sat down and drank grappa with us until closing (on the house).”
Jordan, a young American who was living in Riomaggiore, befriended my friends and me during our stay. He invited us to his apartment for a home-cooked meal of chicken with penne pasta, peppers and pesto cream sauce. At Bar Centrale, a combination bar/restaurant/gelateria in town, we also benefited from a pair of gelato-scooping brothers who relieved us of our bill for the night. Later we found out one of the brothers had a crush on my friend.
The Cinque Terre specializes in a number of distinctive dishes, among them lasagna al pesto, which originated in Vernazza. Other regional specialties include stuffed mussels and acciughe al limone, anchovies cooked in lemon served chilled. The vineyards that cover the hillsides nearby produce grapes for Cinque Terre, a dry white table wine, and sweet white Sciacchetra, both produced locally.
Due to the increase in tourism, some visitors worry that the Cinque Terre area will suffer from overexposure and lose its charm. This is a legitimate concern. During peak season, which lasts from Easter to October, you’re likely to see more tourists then natives. You won’t encounter many problems if you don’t speak Italian either. “You go into a bar and everyone is drinking beer in a bottle standing up, Corona or Budweiser,” says Robert Bartletta who has been visiting the Cinque Terre yearly for the last 25 years. “It’s like being in St. Louis.” In fact, they light off fireworks in Monterosso on the fourth of July to accommodate all the vacationing Americans. Nonetheless, it is nice to know that the Cinque Terre is part of the National Park System which has laws in place protecting it from overdevelopment. Developers look to nearby Levanto as a site for additional restaurants, hotels and bars. And the villagers of the Cinque Terre don’t mind visitors; the economy of the region relies on tourism.
Let’s Go Italy says “the five bright fishing villages of Cinque Terre will bring your spirit sweet silence.” Whether you are pausing for rest on the Via del Amore, perching on a rock in the harbor of Riomaggiore or sipping a cappuccino at Bar Centrale in town, close your eyes and enjoy this “sweetness.” Then open your eyes and look around. In Cinque Terre the view in any direction is spectacular.