This trip actually began last June, when I was notified by email that I had won the Budget Travel Photo Contest with a photo I had taken in Costa Rica. My wife didn't even know I had submitted an entry, and she was in a meeting all afternoon, so I could not call her. We were meeting friends for dinner and had all of five minutes in the car together for me to inform her, "Um, honey, I have some news for you..." She screamed and quickly responded, "Well, I guess we know how we're going to use our furlough days this year!"
After doing our research, we settled on a region (southwest Ireland) and a time frame (October, after the high season but before it gets too cold). I worked with Una at Sceptre Tours to iron out the details, and before we knew it we were on our way.
We flew directly into Shannon, arriving at 7:00 a.m. on a Friday morning with a full day ahead of us. A friend had told us how beautiful it was to fly into Shannon where you could see all the green as you were landing. Well, at 7:00 a.m. on an October morning, the sun had yet to rise and it was still pitch black. Not to mind, we got our rental car and hit the ground running (that is, with a little adjustment for getting used to driving on the left side of the road). First stop: Galway. Although it was raining, we weren't going to let a little rain deter us from having fun. After stopping at the TI, we walked through Eyre Square (aka John F. Kennedy Park) and explored the old town center. We stepped inside the
Collegiate Church of St. Nicholas, where I was impressed with the testament to the Widow Jane Eyre's generosity, commemorated on a plaque. We then walked, struggling to keep our umbrellas open against the wind and the rain, to the much
more modern Galway Cathedral. This is a cathedral you want to visit during the day so you can better see and appreciate a more modern approach to stained glass artwork. Keep an eye out for the Irish Holy Family, where Mary is knitting and Jesus is offering tea to Joseph. Also look for the mosaic
(hidden the day we were there behind a curtain, but that did not stop us) of John F. Kennedy. Needing some lunch, we found our way to Busker Brownes, where my wife had Aubergine and Sweet Potato Gratin and I had delicious Irish Seafood Chowder, accompanied by tasty brown soda bread. We did not want to sit too long and let our jet lag overcome us, so we got back to our car and pushed on, driving northwest toward Letterfrack and the Kylemore Abbey. One of the best ways to combat jet lag is to spend time outdoors, and so our first activity at Kylemore was to tour the walled garden. Still nice in October, this must be even more beautiful in the middle of summer. The Abbey itself is lovely, though only a few rooms are open to tour.
Also on the grounds is a small Neo-Gothic church,
which is also worth a visit. Finishing at the Abbey, we still had a relatively short drive to Clifden and our first night accommodations at the Abbeyglen Castle Hotel. We checked in, dropped our bags in our room, and then walked about a mile into town to find a light supper. Back at the hotel, we headed downstairs to a common room where we thought we could sit by a fire and write in our journals. Ha! The combination of the warmth of the fire and the full day of touring, on top of our jet lag, and we were both dozing after writing only a sentence or two. However, it was also very effective: we got to bed early, got a full night's sleep, and when we woke up in the morning, we were both effectively over our jet lag.
Saturday morning we woke up to the first of our full Irish breakfasts: a lavish buffet spread of cereals, yogurt, fresh fruit, rolls, eggs, bacon, sausage, and the traditional Irish accompaniments of grilled tomatoes and black and white pudding. Although we had another full day
ahead of us, we decided we did not have to be held hostage to our agenda and allowed ourselves to backtrack a bit, driving back towards Letterfrack and the Connemara National Park. The sun was shining and it was a beautiful day to
hike, so we took the trail to the top of Diamond Hill. This wasn't the Ireland I was expecting: instead of the lush greens one hears about, this area was still beautiful but much more in shades of brown. Partly this was due to the season, but also the geography, as the terrain is very wet and boggy. We made it to the top of the hill, and were rewarded with wonderful views both of the harbor and of Kylemore Abbey from above. Once back in the car, already past noon, we headed out towards our next destination: back past
Galway and on to the Burren. The Burren is a region of massive outcroppings of rock that have been scoured by glaciers, rich in archaeological sites, the most famous of which is the Poulnabrone Dolmen. One look at this landscape and it is no wonder why there are so many stone fences and stone buildings in this country. It was getting late, and we had one more goal for this day: to get to the Cliffs of Moher. I had hoped we'd have a beautiful sunset looking out over the Atlantic from the
cliffs, but although the sunset itself was obscured by fog, it was still light when we arrived and we enjoyed the day dwindling away to twilight
while there. After another full day, we recognized the wisdom of our chioce to go in October: pleasant weather for hiking and no crowds to contend with. Saturday was the night of our castle stay, so we drove (now in the dark) back to Dromoland. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that they had upgraded us from a standard to a deluxe room. This is not your drafty medieval castle: the room was quite spacious and luxurious. Sunday morning I went for a run on the castle grounds, through a wooded area where I came upon (and frightened) many pheasant.
Friday and Saturday were both extremely full days, but this was our
first time in Ireland and we wanted to see everything. Recognizing the need to slow down a bit, we had planned to spend two nights at our next stop: Kinsale. Driving south past Cork on Sunday we got our first taste of the beautiful green countryside that Ireland is so famous for. As the sun breaks through the clouds, the lush green fields just pop out at
you. Kinsale very much has a small-town feel, located on a beautiful, well-protected harbor, rich in history. It is one of Ireland's "Tidy Towns," a competition first launched by Bord Failte in an effort to improve the appearance of towns and villages throughout the country for the main tourist season. In addition to just wandering the streets and exploring the shops and restaurants, we took the "Historic Stroll in Old Kinsale." Our guide, Barry, was a wealth of information about the history of Kinsale, from the occupation by the Spanish Armada to the
nearby sinking of the Lusitania, including stories as well of the real Robinson Crusoe. Fun side trips included Charles Fort across the harbor and the Cobh Heritage Center, about a 45-minute
drive. Our mainstay through most of Ireland was basic pub food, which we enjoyed, but in Kinsale ("the Gourmet Capital of Ireland"), we had to try a nicer restaurant. We couldn't have been happier than with a visit to Jim Edwards, where we had a delicious meal of grilled salmon.
This foto was taken in a garden in the medieval village of Eze, France, high atop a rocky cliff overlooking the Mediterranean Sea.
This window was just off the main square in San Gimignano, Italy. The flower boxes really said "Italy" to me. The only thing missing was some laundry hanging out of the window. The photo was taken October 1, 2004 when we were on our three week dream trip to Italy. I added San Gimingnano to our list of places to visit since I wanted to see the medieval skyscrapers. I was not disappointed.
Freiburg (Fribourg) in Switzerland is one of picturesque medieval towns where French and German languages mix together. It's common to hear one person speaking to another in French and the other would reply in German. Freiburg is also known for it's brewery that produces famous Cardinal brand.
Golden Lane (Zlata ulicka) in Prague is believed to get its name from Rudolf II’s alchemists, who are said to have lived here and tried to produce gold. Later on, craftsmen and other people lived in the cottages, among them Franz Kafka lived in #22 in 1916-1917. Golden Lane is very busy through the day with souvenir shops and hoards of tourists, but after dark you can have it all for yourself.
As the sun sets in this wonderfully preserved medieval town, the buildings are illuminated to cast a golden glow on the river. Do you see the moon?
A view from the medieval wall surrounding the city.
Look at how the 3 cows happened to align...
The folly is designed to resemble the ruins of a medieval castle. It was built on the grounds of Wimpole Hall in the mid 1770s at the order of Philip Yorke, 1st Earl of Hardwicke, the then owner of Wimpole Hall. The Earl of Hardwicke commissioned Mr. Sanderson Miller (the noted follies architect of the day) to design the folly in 1751, to then have it later built by 'Capability' Brown in 1769.
The ruins are substantially built and stretch for two hundred feet in length, and include a four-storey Gothic tower.
Cesky Krumlov (UNESCO) is unique historical town of the Czech Republic which offers to your visitors famouse Castle Complex (one of the largest in Central Europe), Baroque Theatre (pearl of the World Cultural Heritage) and beautiful historical centre from Middle Ages.
Following a moving service of Gregarian Chanting from the monks at Sant'Antimo, I happened upon beams of sunlight streaming through the medieval windows of alabaster.
Toledo, Spain is famous for their metal works, especially swords and knives. It is a medieval town of narrow winding streets and a the home of a very beautiful cathedral.
St. Emilion is an amazing medieval town in the Bordeaux region of western France. We visited there in July 2009 with French friends we met through my daughter's high school exchange program. This part of France is alive with beautiful old cities such as this one. It was a privilege to be there.
We have traveled extensively this year thanks to my work and our love for our family.
France - A whirlwind trip the second week in June. One day in Paris, two days in Normandy, three days in Cannes, of which one and a half days was spent in a meeting followed by an extravagant black-tie dinner in a medieval castle on the water. Loved Paris more than we thought we would...Normandy was very moving for my WWII knowledgable husband, and Cannes, well, it's beautiful but pricey. Definately would return to Paris and everyone must go to Normandy at least once in their life to pay their respects.
Alaska cruise - This was a 70th birthday celebration for my mother-in-law the last week in June (we had five days to recover from France before jumping on another plane to Vancouver). Also along for the journey was my father-in-law, my husband, my mother and brother (my brother treated my mom), and my husband's brother and his wife. Three balcony cabins together and the fourth cabin was two decks up in a "junior suite" (my brother is spoiled). Fabulous, fabulous time. Glacier was the fave of everyone. First cruise for everyone but my brother (he is a cruise veteran) and we were all impressed with the luxurious surroundings and ate waaayyy too much food. Disappointed though in the lack of any night life and the quality of the shows, and the few whales we saw. But would go back in a heartbeat!
Australia - Nine days after returning from Alaska, we jumped on a 14 hour flight to Australia thanks to an invitation for me to speak at a conference (my first time speaking...very nervous). The speech went well and as we have experienced once before in 2001, the Australians are fabulous, generous and fun people! We spent the whole week in Cairns...my husband went diving, I snorkeled, we experienced the Kuranda Railway, explored the aborigine culture center, and took the city bus up the coast to Trinity Beach (magnificiant) and Palm Cove (our favorite). Our surprise was at the heavily Asian influence in this tropical city, but were told it was because Japan is only a six-hour flight. Disappointed in the quality of snorkeling/diving, though. Water was not as clear as we expected whether on a nearby island or at the outer reef. Perhaps overcrowding is taking a toll on one of nature's wonders of the world.
Hawaii - We leave on this trip Sept. 26! Will post details later!
My morning run on Day 7 of my Prague adventure took me to Vysehrad, a 10th century castle situated on a hill overlooking the Vltava River. Many call Vysehrad the mythical birthplace of Prague. It is often called the Old Castle, having been abandoned as a royal home in the early 14th century.
The view from the hill is exquisite, capturing the medieval feel of Prague.
We all have our reasons we love to cruise. For me, besides the exciting ports of call, it's being wined and dined and letting someone else do the cooking and cleaning for a week or more. I just spent a week on the Caribbean Princess sailing to New England and Canada. I have sailed Princess Cruise Lines several times, but passed on an opportunity I will never turn down again, The Chef's Table.
For the cost of $75 per person diners are treated to an unforgettable and delicious experience. The meal is specially prepared by the head chef himself. I had been reluctant in the past to pay that fee, but after this experience will gladly pay it again and again.
Our evening began with an invitation to meet Maitre D' Giuseppe Franchina outside the International Cafe on deck 5. We were then given lab coats and escorted through the dining room into the Galley. Giuseppe introduced us to Executive Chef Antonio Cereda. This is where the fun began. A select staff began pouring us champagne and bringing out appetizers one after another. Each appetizer was specially prepared only for us by Chef Cereda. They included caviar, salmon tartar and king crab margaritas to name a few. We spent about 45 minutes in the galley before being escorted to a special section of the dining room set up just for the Chef's Table group.
A word of advice, you are going to be served many delicious delicacies, so you may not want to eat much before you go, if anything at all. The food kept coming and each course was better than the last. Once seated at our table we were given our first course, baked parmesan dumplings. Next came my favorite course, raspberry ginger sherbet topped with Grey Goose Vodka. This helped cleanse the palate and prepare us for the incredible main course.
Chef Cereda then brought out a "trio of beef, veal and pork on a medieval spike". He flamed the meat for show and added taste. If that wasn't enough, Head Waiter Tomasz then placed a lobster tail on each of our plates. Did I mention that during this entire meal the wine was flowing? We were offered white, red and a dessert wine. By dessert we were all feeling the effects of the alcohol and had a great deal of fun with our last course. We were presented with an elegant dome which turned out to be made of spun sugar. Chef Cereda lifted the dome to reveal "iced amaretto strawberry parfait with fresh berries". The bowl securing this delicious dessert was also made of sugar. After devouring the parfait we all started to break apart and eat the sugar bowl.
Once the meal was complete a ship's photographer took a group picture and individual photos. He returned about 20 minutes later with our complimentary pictures and Chef Cereda and Maitre D' Franchina presented the ladies with roses and each couple signed cookbooks.
If you decide to take part in the Chef's Table sign up the second you arrive onboard your Princess ship. Only 12 people are selected per night and in our case they only offered the Chef's Table two nights. If you love being wined and dined don't pass up this truly incredible experience.
Imagine the history this Abbey has seen over it's life time. Time standing still. Oh...the Mel reference....like one of my other photo's, playing the Mel Gibson medieval theme! :-) View full size.
Sure, many curvy roads we've all been on but this one, brings you back to Medieval travel adventures! Around the bend may be Mel Gibson....oh...sorry, got Scotland and Ireland mixed up! May my grandparents forgive me! View full size.
During our city tour of Brussels, we were shown a statue of a plague victim from medieval times. Many people had touched it 'for luck' over the years. That's what I'm doing in the picture. That night, I got really sick! I'm sure it was just a coincidence..
The Taste of Scent
By Kimberley Lovato
It has been said that seventy-five percent of what we perceive as taste actually comes from our sense of smell. Scent is also linked to memory. To confirm this, one need only catch a whisper of a favorite perfume to be transported instantaneously to a particular moment in time. It is precisely this emotional voyage that has Dordogne born and bred ice cream maker Roland Manouvrier scheming up new and unorthodox flavors, appropriately called parfums in French, like goat cheese, parmesan, Szechwan pepper, foie gras and tomato-basil, to name only a few.
“I like the idea of people responding to a specific flavor in an emotional or sensual way,” says Roland.
We would never have found Roland on our own, but after a delicious meal at La Bruceliere restaurant in Issigeac, France, the talented young chef Nicolas De Visch plunked a tub of unknown content onto our table and implored us to taste ‘something incredible’. One by one we dug our tiny spoons into a tub of white creamy ice cream and one by one we raised our eyebrows in surprise as the flavor hit our tongues. It was not the coconut, vanilla or other sweet sensation we expected, but something rather different and surprisingly pleasing---goat cheese. We knew we had to meet the creator. A phone number from Nicolas, a map and a cell phone with little battery power left, we set out on the 2-hour drive to Saint Geniès, a tiny town not far from the medieval town of Sarlat.
Roland met us wearing, no joke, a lab coat and a large plastic cap set askew over his thick mop of dark hair. Looking very much the part of mad scientist, he greeted us with a handshake and a cone full of sweet and smooth mandarin sorbet. It couldn’t have tasted better if we had plucked it from a tree. We looked around for the smoking beakers and a bubbling cauldron but all we saw was a spotless, stainless steel kitchen.
This native of St. Léon sur Vézère draws his inspiration from the perfume makers of Paris in the middle-ages who could incite reactions to specific scents. Roland’s connection to food started closer to home in his mother’s kitchen where he says she cooked “with local ingredients and a lot of emotion.”
Roland admires modern chefs who exploit the intelligent side of our palettes to create a sensory experience. He refers to the famous Spanish restaurant El Bulli as an example. Standing in Roland’s office, he identifies the brands of the perfume we are wearing, then asks if we have read Patrick Süskind’s novel ‘Perfume’ in which the main character creates the ultimate scent (made from beautiful young women) to achieve certain reactions.
“I thought, why not adapt this concept to ice cream,” he says.
There is no flavor of women on his menu (yet) but his creations do reach beyond just our taste buds. His melding of color, smell and texture is nothing short of alchemy, and Roland believes this sensory fusion is what lets people experience food, rather than just taste it. He uses the freshest ingredients, growing much of them himself in his own garden, and admits to eating his own ice cream and sorbet, but his preferred flavor depends on his mood or even the weather. This is part of the reason Roland doesn’t write his recipes down.
“To find the right balance between taste and texture is not exact. It is a reaction that depends on many influences.”
I guess we can’t expect a magician to reveal all his secrets.
Sadly for us foodies, Roland’s magical concoctions are not sold to the general public. You’ll only find his ice cream at select restaurants around the Dordogne, like we did at La Bruceliere.
Often we take for granted the power of our senses but in the little town of St. Geniès, France an innovative alchemist is working hard to make sure we don’t. Roland’s ability to conjure up flavor that tastes like fragrance is magical. The fact his creations look and feel as good as they taste is the icing, or shall we say the ice cream, on the cake. –end-
Kimberley Lovato is a freelance writer eating her way through Europe. See more of her articles and read more about Roland in her soon to be released book at: www.abroadinbelgium.com