We are still finding it hard to even talk to our friends of how beautiful and breathtaking the Tuscany region of Italy is. Our trip was perfect with a mix of blending with the locals and doing the tourist spots. We did not plan to have fancy but agreed we would splurge on Italian food!
We picked the city of Lucca, for no particular reason, to stay 6 nights. Stayed at Al Tuscany and would highly reccomend. Great, helpful hostess. Quiet ,but right next to the main street, Via Roma. Lucca was our favorite city and we went to a lot of cities. Planned day trips from Lucca. Must see's if you only have 7 days here: Cinque Terre (hike the cities), Borga and Florence. Rent bicycles in Lucca and ride the ramparts and the entire city.
We rented a car and spent our last 7 nights near the city of Scorfinio. On the drive, the city of Volterra is not to be missed. We stayed in an agriturismo (rented room in a farmhome) outside in the rural country of Scorfinio. Absolutely stay an agriturismo. Ours was perfect at Agriturismo Casa Elisa, which is a working goat farm. Rented room with kitchen and all. Perfect. Montelpulciano and Siena you have to see and our favorite was Pienza. Tour the palace in Pienza, walk every nook.
Here are a few memories that will never fade and could even be helpful to you! It is important to drive like an Italian. Fast, quick and without hesitation and you will be fine. I learned to love to drive in Italy. Eat pecorino cheese, prosiuitto, pasta and lots of excellent house wine (always order house wine, forgot buying a bottle!). buy grocieries in an Supermercato. Order the fruit, meat and vegetable of the season. Touch the Mediterranean Sea and learn a few common italian words and use them when ever you can. Savor every single second because it is one of the most amazing journies you will go on. It is worth every penny.
We are just back from two great weeks in Italy: the first eating and drinking our way through Emilia Romagna, the second on an agriturismo estate about 15 mintues southwest of Siena.
Many of you probably know about agriturismo in Italy: staying on a working farm in guest accommodations ranging from simple to deluxe. Ours, www.montestigliano.it, is the most glorious place, conveniently located to explore throughout Tuscany, super comfortable, with guest support by a totally engaging and helpful English guest manager. And to top it off, the rates are unbelievable! 10 of us stayed in a 5-bedroom, 4 bath house for 1550 E for a week, total. That is the low season rate but even in high season, it's a bargain. We had breakfast in our house each day, cooked dinner in with fresh local ingredients three or four times, and ate great meals in the countryside....or Florence or Pisa or Siena...once a day.
This is definitely worth checking out.
By the way, there are lots of agriturismos throughout Tuscany, and really throughout Italy. Especially a lot in Chianti. While the Chianti area is totally gorgeous, it is VERY difficult for local exploring. It can take an hour or more, depending on where you stay, to get to a highway that gets you to the local sites. Staying as we did at Montestigliano, you are 5 minutes from a highway that goes north to Florence (45 minutes) or San Gimignano (30 minutes), south to Montalcino, Montepulciano and Pienza (45 minutes or less), northwest to Pisa (an hour plus), east to Arezzo, Cortona, etc etc etc. And you are 15 minutes from Siena. You hopefully get the picture.
By the way, don't be scared off by "off season." We had good weather and no crowds. 
How Can One Go "On the Cheap" to Italy in 2008?
Part 1
Thirty years ago, my husband, Ed, and I went to Europe using Frommer's Europe on Five Dollars A Day. For six weeks this September and October, we concentrated on Italy, cutting costs by renting a house in the oldest area of a town in Umbria, a non-
touristy town named 'Marsciano." Instead of Venice, Florence and Rome, with their costly hotels, we lived in Marcia's typical Italian home with three floors. Not only was the price right, $1,500 for the month of September, but also we were afforded the comfort that comes from being able to cook many of our meals and do laundry. In addition, we didn't have to live out of a suitcase and move from place to place every few days. Here is a picture of a Sunday morning procession as seen from our Marsciano House. See Marcia's blog and pictures of her home at the web site provided: http://web.mac.com/marsciamckean1/iWeb/MyItalianHometown/Welcome.html
All Aboard! Part 2
Train travel is the way to go! When gas was $9.00 a gallon in Europe at the time, traveling by train is the cheapest/least stressful way to go. This time around we did not visit big cities (because we had already spent weeks touring them), but on the days we chose to travel, we visited hill towns in Umbria and Tuscany. Some of the towns in which we spent a day included: Todi, Amelia, Perugia, Sienna, Pienza, Montefalco, Bevagne, Orvieto, Civita di Bagnoregio, Trevi, Gubbio, Spello and Montepulciano.
Umbrian and Tuscan Hill Towns and Thrifty Eats! Part 3
We visited the towns, read the history, marveled at chapels and cathedrals, but didn't spend much time in museums. We arrived early enough to peruse the town and determined to find a tratoria or restaurant for a long lunch, during the time when shops in Italy close - 12:30 to 3:30 P.M. We often had a first plate (pasta or gnocchi) and either a salda or contori (vegetable - often, spinach or chicory) and the vino of the house - blanco or rosso. We called this "soaking up the culture." Second plates are meat and fish and are more expensive, and simply too much food. Bread and olive oil are always included and Italian restaurateurs add the gratuity to the bill. Usually, we did not have dessert but two were memorable - a tiramisu in Trevi and a warm chocolate cake in Spello.
Searching for Ed's Roots - in Amelia (the region of Perugia) and in Grimaldi (the region of Calabria.)
Part 4
We went to Amelia, a beautiful hill town in the region of Perugia,
where Ed's grandfather was born and lived until he immigrated to Portland, Oregon. Amelia is a walled city and has the reputation of being one of the friendliest cities in Italy. Everyone greeted us. It was poignant for Ed to imagine his grandfather there and he had many questions - when exactly did Ersillio leave, and why? And then, how was it for him to leave Ameilia in the early 1900's, a put together/beautiful walled city that was his home and move to Portland, a muddy frontier town in an unknown new world, that was an ocean and a continent away?
After living in Marsciano in Umbria for a month, we went south to the region of Calabria.(from the ankle to the toe of the boot that is Italy.) Ed's grandmother came from there. She received her passport from Cosenza, a big city, and then took a boat from Naples to New York and the train to Portland. Her home town on her passport was listed as "Gruniliti." As we researched before leaving for Italy, we found no town of that name, so we went to a town close to Cosenza named, "Grimaldi." We were taking pictures and since it is not a tourist town, many people greeted us. I had studied a bit of Italian before we went and so I struck up a conversation (in my limited way) with an Italian man, saying that we thought that Ed's grandmother came from this town.
He said, "Uno momento" and from his home, he brought out his cousin who was born in Grimaldi and now lives in Ottawa, Canada. She enthused, "Come with us to city hall; it's called 'the Commune of Grimaldi.'" Two people in the office started looking at birth records and found the family name. We didn't have her birth date, but thought she should have been born in the last decade of the 1800's. After about 20 minutes, Ed said, "I don't want you to waste anymore of your time. I think that because you found the family name, my Grandmother really did come from here. I don't have to see her birth record. I just wanted to walk in the city of her birth."
The people in the office continued to look. In the very next book, they found "Rosa Sdao born in 1891 on January 21st to Bruno, father, and Falsetto, mother, Sdao." They listed the midwife's name and the church in which she was baptized.
Ed was clearly emotional as he touched the book. The serendipity of this entire experience was incredible. The couple from Ottawa was supposed to leave for the city hall an hour before we arrived in Grimaldi and were actually supposed to leave to fly home to Canada the day before we came.
Clearly, this was the "wow" of the trip. Ed's grandmother came to Portland when she was 23 years of age for an arranged marriage to a man (Ersillio) from the Umbrian region. They quickly had four children and then he died of TB. Ed really wasn't aware of her story when she was alive, so the discovery of her birth records and town were very important to him.
A Hotel on the Mediterranean for $60 a night, including breakfast!
Part 5.
On October 2nd, for our final week in Italy, we enjoyed the beach and poolside at the Trevi Village near Campora San Giovanni and Amatea, Italy in the region of Calabria. Because it was "off season," it was definitely a bargain! www.trevivilliage.it
To celebrate the twentieth anniversary of our first date, my husband and I took a trip we'd long talked about but never gotten around to planning - a journey to Italy. It was difficult deciding which areas of Italy to see, but we finally chose the Cinque Terre, Tuscany, and Rome. To say our trip surpassed my wildest dreams would be an understatement. Welcome to our Italian adventure!
After flying into Milan, it took several trains to reach the Cinque Terre (which means Five Lands), but it was completely worth venturing off the beaten path to visit this quaint, charming, and friendly coastal area of Italy. The Cinque Terre consists of five small hillside towns that each looks like it's literally spilling into the ocean. The towns have all been in existence since Medieval times and have the ancient lookout towers and historic stone churches to prove it. The shops are quaint, the people are friendly, and the views are breathtaking. We especially enjoyed just roaming the streets, as well as the twisting stairs and alleyways (which also qualify as streets in a place as old as the towns of the Cinque Terre,) taking pictures of lovely archways and windows, and watching the locals hanging their laundry out as they conversed from window to window.
Getting Around the Cinque Terre
Don't expect taxis here, and whatever you do, don't plan on renting a car. In the Cinque Terre, there are three options: trains, hiking, and boats (although boats may not be available year round.) Oceanside trails passing through olive groves and terraced vineyards connect the five towns of Monterossa, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and are a lovely way to travel - but be warned, the trails get progressively more difficult the farther north you go. So, based on your hiking ability, we advise hiking between the more southern towns and taking the train between the northern towns. We used the low-priced Cinque Terre Treno Card, which admits you to both the trails and the trains. And we sometimes found the train schedules difficult to follow in the Cinque Terre, so when arriving at the station, we advise asking a clerk when the next train to your destination is due. Overall, the trains are a pretty easy way to hop between the towns if you choose not to hike or tire of it.
Where To Stay in the Cinque Terre 
We chose to make the town of Manarola our home base. It's the least touristy of the towns and we found our hotel, the Ca' d'Andrean simple but perfect for our stay. It's a steep walk up the hill with luggage, but worth it for the view of lemon trees and terraced hillside gardens out our shuttered window each morning. The staff here was especially helpful in mapping out future parts of our trip. For nice, clean accommodations, we highly recommend the Hotel Ca' d'Andrean.
While Manarola was our favorite, when we visit the Cinque Terre again, we will gladly consider staying in any of the other towns.
Highlights of our Time in the Cinque Terre
We found something truly unique and delightful at every turn in the Cinque Terre, so it's hard to narrow it down, but here are a few faves:
Cinque Terre Fun Facts
Finding Romance in the Cinque Terre
Romance was pretty much everywhere here, but here are a few tips for romantic moments with your significant other:
If you want to stop and smell the roses - or the sweet scents of lemon trees and lavender in the air - schedule some time for the Cinque Terre in your trip to Italy. We spent only two and a half days there and wished we'd had more time to simply soak up the slow-paced seaside charm of this traditional slice of Italy. Italian charm at its best.
Under the Tuscan Sun
From the Cinque Terre, we took the train to LaSpezia, where we rented a car. Warning: Driving a car in any sizable Italian city is a challenge when you can't read the signs and don't know the general rules and customs of the road. But once you get out of the city into more rural areas, driving is fine.
Our plan to drive through Tuscany, hitting as many hill towns as possible along the way, worked out well. We spent two days meandering the twisting roads across rolling gold and green hills, stopping to soak up Medieval history along the way. It was amazing to be driving along and suddenly see an ancient fortified city appear in the distance.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
We made our home base at the Castel Bigossi, a lovely thousand-year-old castle in the heart of Tuscany near the fort town of Monteriggioni. It was off the beaten path, but we enjoyed the drive through the countryside, dotted with still more historic towns, each time we returned there. The exterior and grounds of the Castel Bigossi were lovely - the perfect Tuscan postcard - and the staff was friendly, talkative, and helpful. The interior was an unusual mix of modernity (spiral staircases and an elevator) and history (ancient wood beams on the ceiling of our bedroom) and all the rooms in the castel are spacious suites - more room than we needed, but we didn't mind. This would be a great place to stay for a longer visit than the two nights we spent there.
Other thoughts on accommodations: Tuscany also boasts many agriturismos - these are working farms that also provide bed-and-breakfast type accommodations. And if you're more of a city person, all the hill towns offer rooms, as well.
Getting Around Tuscany by Car
Like I said above, once you're away from traffic, driving is a breeze, but be warned: Italian street signs and American street signs differ greatly. In Italy, roads are not marked with any sort of name or number, so it's hard to tell where you are most of the time, even when following a map. You are instead guided by arrows that point the way to the nearest town in any direction, and these tend to appear in groups at the frequent roundabouts.
Also, be prepared for crazy drivers who will merrily pass on blind curves and motorcycle riders who consider it perfectly acceptable to pass between two cars without a lane. Our advice: Drive safely and normally, but be on guard.
The Tuscan landscape is dotted with lots of Medieval hill towns, each with its own personality. Meandering through these places was fascinating not only because we were walking streets and seeing buildings that have been there for nearly a thousand years, but also because these are all still thriving communities where people live and work. Wandering the stone streets and piazzas, I expected to see knights in shining armor come riding up on horseback any minute.
It would be difficult to see all the hill towns in the region (yes, there are that many,) so we picked a few that sounded especially appealing based on guidebooks and advice from our hotel staff. A few of our favorites were:
Note: As hill towns go, Siena is the largest in the region and pretty much considered a must-see. Personally, we were disappointed by how modern and commercialized even the historic part of town is (Foot Lockers and other American mall-type stores lined the stone streets.) But it's still worth a stop for the stunning Duomo, dating from 1215, and the huge Piazza Il Campo where a wild, no-rules horse race is run every July and August.
But Back to the Rolling Tuscan Hillsides 
We made a small project out of locating some of the best-known postcard views of Tuscany's cypress-lined roads - a task made more difficult by the lack of road signs. However, before leaving home, we Googled on the topic and found other travelers' notes on how to reach some of these scenic spots. Finding them felt like a special victory! But with or without them, we came home with countless pictures of fields teeming with red poppies, villas flanked by vineyards, and some lovely cypress-lined roads we stumbled across on our own.
Note: As we traveled the winding roads that criss-cross Tuscany, we were kept company by the abundance of American music on the radio - everything from Dionne Warwick to Bruce Springsteen to Green Day.
Finding Romance in Tuscany
Romance is pretty easy to find in Tuscany, too, but here are some recommendations:
Tuscany is a must-see for those who enjoy lovely, rolling landscapes. The rich Medieval history and striking hill towns are wonderful perks to this region teeming with romantic ambience.
All Roads Lead to Rome
All roads may lead to Rome, but here's a tip: leave your rental car at the airport and take the train into the city. Even that was a bit of a challenge - remember, Italians don't seem to value signage as much as we do in America - but it was still by far the best choice.
You can look at Rome in two ways: it's a zoo or it's a party. Choose the party attitude and you'll have a much better time. This large, busy city seemed to have as many pedestrians as cars, and it was usually unclear who had the right of way, especially on small streets left over from older times.
Getting Around Rome
To walk or take the train around town? It's a toss-up. Rome is a walking city, but things are often farther away than they appear and you can put many a mile on your sneakers by day's end. On the other hand, some of the subway terminals were confusing to navigate and had broken ticket machines, or they were far enough out of the way that it just seemed simpler to walk.
The streets are confusing - remember, this is a very old city, full of twists and turns. Our advice: Follow the signs toward major landmarks and don't be frustrated if you get lost. On one particular evening, after listening to street musicians for a while at the popular Piazza Navonna, we started the twisting trek toward our hotel, following signs and making good progress - we thought - until, about fifteen minutes later, we emerged right back onto the Piazza Navonna. We just looked at each other and cracked up laughing.
Where to Stay
We made our home in Rome the LaResidenzia Hotel, near the Via Venetta, a major thoroughfare. Despite the fact that two lap dance clubs sit directly across the street from the hotel, we were very happy with our choice - which is to say we never really saw any traffic at the clubs and they seemed very quiet. Like our other Italian accommodations, the staff was knowledgeable and friendly. Sitting areas in the lobby were spacious and elegant, our room was nice with lots of storage and a turn-down service, and a pretty good breakfast buffet was included in the price of the room.
Ancient Rome - Walking Through History 
If you're a history lover, this is why you're here. We loved the Colesseum and the Forum, as well as Palatine Hill (where many Roman rulers built their palaces.) Our advice: It's worth it to pay for the tours here. Not only do you get good, interesting information along the way, if you enter with a tour, you bypass the long lines to get in.
We spent a couple of hours roaming around the Colesseum, and more time outside, just taking pictures and enjoying the ambience of the area. As this was a sight I'd only dreamed of seeing, it felt almost surreal to actually be there. I had the same reaction to the Roman Forum and enjoyed knowing I was walking the same paths Julius Caesar and so many other historic figures had traveled. I found myself wanting to take a picture at every step to be sure I captured it all, and I truly felt the impact of being in the cradle of modern Western civilization.
Roaming Around Rome
Of course, there's much more to see here than just the ancient ruins. We enjoyed sitting on the Spanish steps, hanging out at the Trevi Fountain, touring the Pantheon (an amazing piece of ancient architecture,) and taking in the views from the Victor Immanuel Monument (although not as famous as some stops in Rome, you can't miss it on your way to the Colesseum - it's an enormous building that looks like a giant wedding cake.)
Rome is filled with countless piazzas - or town squares - both great and small, and each has it's own personality. Some are large, sporting numerous cafes, shops, fountains, and street artists, while others are smaller and less busy. It was fun to be walking along a narrow street and suddenly exit into another new piazza and see what it had to offer.
Adventures at the Vatican
How many people can say they've been kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica? I don't know, but we are now among that number. More to come on that in a moment.
First, some facts. This is another place where it's wise to pay extra and enter with a tour group - it cut our wait considerably and we truly got a lot out of the tour. Also, you must where clothing that covers your shoulders and knees to be admitted to St. Peter's Basilica.
Our tour covered St. Peter's Square, the Basilica, and the Vatican museum, including the Sistine Chapel. Upon entering the Basilica, we'd barely gotten started when an angry man approached our tour guide and began yelling at her in Italian. She reported that we were being thrown out because he didn't believe we were a real tour group and that she'd bring us back later. Weird but true, and we never did really understand what happened there. But on with the show.
We were, honestly, a little let down by the Sistine Chapel, which I'd long looked forward to seeing. It's an amazing piece of art, yes, but the ceiling is higher than I'd envisioned, so it's really pretty difficult to see. The whole room was packed with people craning their necks to try to take it in, which made everyone prone to bumping into each other. Plus you can't take pictures (understandable) and you can't talk (less understandable.)
After the chapel, it was back to the church, but we had to pretend we were not a tour group. (Again, confusing, I know.) But we enjoyed the un-tour of the basilica and were taken aback by the scope and size. Particularly notable items in the church: the famous Pieta by Michelangelo, the enormous canopy marking the (official but who knows) burial spot of St. Peter, and a statue of St. Peter to which, tradition holds, one should hold onto the toe, make three wishes, and they will come true.
One nice thing about being kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica: when we returned, hours had passed, and the sun shone through small windows in the dome, casting a heavenly glow on the floor, which made for amazing photos.
A Few Tips for Your Time in Rome
Finding Romance in Rome
Rome is busier and a bit more challenging in ways, but you still need not look far for romance here:
Ah, Rome. Two-thousand years of history and culture and architecture. It's a lot to take in, but it would be a crime to visit Italy without fully embracing it's exciting, bustling capital.
Ciao!
We travel a lot, but our trip to Italy was truly the romantic adventure of a lifetime.
Final tip: Take your time exploring romantic Italy, and eat a lot of gelato because it's just not as good at home, no matter what anyone says.