The village of Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre, Italy
Village of Riomaggiore in Cinque Terre (Italy)
Photo is taken from above Riomaggiore train station going toward Manarola
Photos from my weekend in Cinque Terre, Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore - one of the prettiest (and least touristy) of the 5 villages, in my opinion
Photos from my weekend in Cinque Terre, Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore - one of the prettiest (and least touristy) of the 5 villages, in my opinion
Photos from my weekend in Cinque Terre, Italy. We stayed in Riomaggiore - one of the prettiest (and least touristy) of the 5 villages, in my opinion
Fishing boats on the dry dock
Looking down at the anchored boats in the harbor
On our way to lunch in Riomaggiore, Cinque Terre, we spotted this feline lounging behind the vases for sale. On our way from lunch, it had moved to a much cozier spot.
This picture was taken somewhere along the walk from Levanto to Riomaggiore, in the Cinque Terre of Italy. We were lucky to have the perfect fall day to walk, and I took about 60 pictures of the towns, the sea and the ecosystem , which I hear is erroding due to tourists such as myself. We did our best not to hurt anything along our path, and the scenery was glorious, as you can see.
My whole study abroad group spent a weekend in Cinque Terre and this picture was taken on the first night, on some rocks right outside of Riomaggiore. We bought wine and beer at a tiny little store and drank it here watching the sun set and the waves crash. We all talked about what good friends we had become and how special this night was. Everyone looks so happy in this picture, plus you get to see the scenery, so that's why I love it so much.
This is the beautiful town of Riomaggiore of Cinque Terre. There are no cars here and the people are so real. They are known for their beautiful views and beaches, the hike between the 5 towns of Cinque Terre, the white wine straight from the vineyards in the hills, their pesto which was invented here and their amazing seafood. I had the best weekend of my life here and stayed in one of the houses on the water you see.
This photo was taken from the Cinque Terre trail as we were approaching Vernazza - one of the five colorful towns. We were very tired after hiking all day, beginning at Riomaggiore in the moring and continuing to Manarola, Corniglia and finally , after the touhgest part of the hike - Vernazza. We walked down a steep stairway into the town where we found little notices about rooms for rent posted on the walls. We were lucky to find a cute room with a terrace overlooking the city - practically all the way back up to the trail. Vernazza was a fun place to stay overnight. We walked down to the little harbor where some children were swimming and some old gentlemen fishing. The central piazza was full of brightly painted fishing boats which apparently are pulled out of the water when not in use. Lots of fun looking restaurants surround the piazza but we were disappointed in the one we chose as far as food quality. The little Foccaccio shops up the lane had much better pizza and foccaccio - and were a lot cheaper. We found an excellent bakery at the back of town which had the best chocolate croissanats ever!
To celebrate the twentieth anniversary of our first date, my husband and I took a trip we'd long talked about but never gotten around to planning - a journey to Italy. It was difficult deciding which areas of Italy to see, but we finally chose the Cinque Terre, Tuscany, and Rome. To say our trip surpassed my wildest dreams would be an understatement. Welcome to our Italian adventure!
After flying into Milan, it took several trains to reach the Cinque Terre (which means Five Lands), but it was completely worth venturing off the beaten path to visit this quaint, charming, and friendly coastal area of Italy. The Cinque Terre consists of five small hillside towns that each looks like it's literally spilling into the ocean. The towns have all been in existence since Medieval times and have the ancient lookout towers and historic stone churches to prove it. The shops are quaint, the people are friendly, and the views are breathtaking. We especially enjoyed just roaming the streets, as well as the twisting stairs and alleyways (which also qualify as streets in a place as old as the towns of the Cinque Terre,) taking pictures of lovely archways and windows, and watching the locals hanging their laundry out as they conversed from window to window.
Getting Around the Cinque Terre
Don't expect taxis here, and whatever you do, don't plan on renting a car. In the Cinque Terre, there are three options: trains, hiking, and boats (although boats may not be available year round.) Oceanside trails passing through olive groves and terraced vineyards connect the five towns of Monterossa, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and are a lovely way to travel - but be warned, the trails get progressively more difficult the farther north you go. So, based on your hiking ability, we advise hiking between the more southern towns and taking the train between the northern towns. We used the low-priced Cinque Terre Treno Card, which admits you to both the trails and the trains. And we sometimes found the train schedules difficult to follow in the Cinque Terre, so when arriving at the station, we advise asking a clerk when the next train to your destination is due. Overall, the trains are a pretty easy way to hop between the towns if you choose not to hike or tire of it.
Where To Stay in the Cinque Terre 
We chose to make the town of Manarola our home base. It's the least touristy of the towns and we found our hotel, the Ca' d'Andrean simple but perfect for our stay. It's a steep walk up the hill with luggage, but worth it for the view of lemon trees and terraced hillside gardens out our shuttered window each morning. The staff here was especially helpful in mapping out future parts of our trip. For nice, clean accommodations, we highly recommend the Hotel Ca' d'Andrean.
While Manarola was our favorite, when we visit the Cinque Terre again, we will gladly consider staying in any of the other towns.
Highlights of our Time in the Cinque Terre
We found something truly unique and delightful at every turn in the Cinque Terre, so it's hard to narrow it down, but here are a few faves:
Cinque Terre Fun Facts
Finding Romance in the Cinque Terre
Romance was pretty much everywhere here, but here are a few tips for romantic moments with your significant other:
If you want to stop and smell the roses - or the sweet scents of lemon trees and lavender in the air - schedule some time for the Cinque Terre in your trip to Italy. We spent only two and a half days there and wished we'd had more time to simply soak up the slow-paced seaside charm of this traditional slice of Italy. Italian charm at its best.
Under the Tuscan Sun
From the Cinque Terre, we took the train to LaSpezia, where we rented a car. Warning: Driving a car in any sizable Italian city is a challenge when you can't read the signs and don't know the general rules and customs of the road. But once you get out of the city into more rural areas, driving is fine.
Our plan to drive through Tuscany, hitting as many hill towns as possible along the way, worked out well. We spent two days meandering the twisting roads across rolling gold and green hills, stopping to soak up Medieval history along the way. It was amazing to be driving along and suddenly see an ancient fortified city appear in the distance.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
We made our home base at the Castel Bigossi, a lovely thousand-year-old castle in the heart of Tuscany near the fort town of Monteriggioni. It was off the beaten path, but we enjoyed the drive through the countryside, dotted with still more historic towns, each time we returned there. The exterior and grounds of the Castel Bigossi were lovely - the perfect Tuscan postcard - and the staff was friendly, talkative, and helpful. The interior was an unusual mix of modernity (spiral staircases and an elevator) and history (ancient wood beams on the ceiling of our bedroom) and all the rooms in the castel are spacious suites - more room than we needed, but we didn't mind. This would be a great place to stay for a longer visit than the two nights we spent there.
Other thoughts on accommodations: Tuscany also boasts many agriturismos - these are working farms that also provide bed-and-breakfast type accommodations. And if you're more of a city person, all the hill towns offer rooms, as well.
Getting Around Tuscany by Car
Like I said above, once you're away from traffic, driving is a breeze, but be warned: Italian street signs and American street signs differ greatly. In Italy, roads are not marked with any sort of name or number, so it's hard to tell where you are most of the time, even when following a map. You are instead guided by arrows that point the way to the nearest town in any direction, and these tend to appear in groups at the frequent roundabouts.
Also, be prepared for crazy drivers who will merrily pass on blind curves and motorcycle riders who consider it perfectly acceptable to pass between two cars without a lane. Our advice: Drive safely and normally, but be on guard.
The Tuscan landscape is dotted with lots of Medieval hill towns, each with its own personality. Meandering through these places was fascinating not only because we were walking streets and seeing buildings that have been there for nearly a thousand years, but also because these are all still thriving communities where people live and work. Wandering the stone streets and piazzas, I expected to see knights in shining armor come riding up on horseback any minute.
It would be difficult to see all the hill towns in the region (yes, there are that many,) so we picked a few that sounded especially appealing based on guidebooks and advice from our hotel staff. A few of our favorites were:
Note: As hill towns go, Siena is the largest in the region and pretty much considered a must-see. Personally, we were disappointed by how modern and commercialized even the historic part of town is (Foot Lockers and other American mall-type stores lined the stone streets.) But it's still worth a stop for the stunning Duomo, dating from 1215, and the huge Piazza Il Campo where a wild, no-rules horse race is run every July and August.
But Back to the Rolling Tuscan Hillsides 
We made a small project out of locating some of the best-known postcard views of Tuscany's cypress-lined roads - a task made more difficult by the lack of road signs. However, before leaving home, we Googled on the topic and found other travelers' notes on how to reach some of these scenic spots. Finding them felt like a special victory! But with or without them, we came home with countless pictures of fields teeming with red poppies, villas flanked by vineyards, and some lovely cypress-lined roads we stumbled across on our own.
Note: As we traveled the winding roads that criss-cross Tuscany, we were kept company by the abundance of American music on the radio - everything from Dionne Warwick to Bruce Springsteen to Green Day.
Finding Romance in Tuscany
Romance is pretty easy to find in Tuscany, too, but here are some recommendations:
Tuscany is a must-see for those who enjoy lovely, rolling landscapes. The rich Medieval history and striking hill towns are wonderful perks to this region teeming with romantic ambience.
All Roads Lead to Rome
All roads may lead to Rome, but here's a tip: leave your rental car at the airport and take the train into the city. Even that was a bit of a challenge - remember, Italians don't seem to value signage as much as we do in America - but it was still by far the best choice.
You can look at Rome in two ways: it's a zoo or it's a party. Choose the party attitude and you'll have a much better time. This large, busy city seemed to have as many pedestrians as cars, and it was usually unclear who had the right of way, especially on small streets left over from older times.
Getting Around Rome
To walk or take the train around town? It's a toss-up. Rome is a walking city, but things are often farther away than they appear and you can put many a mile on your sneakers by day's end. On the other hand, some of the subway terminals were confusing to navigate and had broken ticket machines, or they were far enough out of the way that it just seemed simpler to walk.
The streets are confusing - remember, this is a very old city, full of twists and turns. Our advice: Follow the signs toward major landmarks and don't be frustrated if you get lost. On one particular evening, after listening to street musicians for a while at the popular Piazza Navonna, we started the twisting trek toward our hotel, following signs and making good progress - we thought - until, about fifteen minutes later, we emerged right back onto the Piazza Navonna. We just looked at each other and cracked up laughing.
Where to Stay
We made our home in Rome the LaResidenzia Hotel, near the Via Venetta, a major thoroughfare. Despite the fact that two lap dance clubs sit directly across the street from the hotel, we were very happy with our choice - which is to say we never really saw any traffic at the clubs and they seemed very quiet. Like our other Italian accommodations, the staff was knowledgeable and friendly. Sitting areas in the lobby were spacious and elegant, our room was nice with lots of storage and a turn-down service, and a pretty good breakfast buffet was included in the price of the room.
Ancient Rome - Walking Through History 
If you're a history lover, this is why you're here. We loved the Colesseum and the Forum, as well as Palatine Hill (where many Roman rulers built their palaces.) Our advice: It's worth it to pay for the tours here. Not only do you get good, interesting information along the way, if you enter with a tour, you bypass the long lines to get in.
We spent a couple of hours roaming around the Colesseum, and more time outside, just taking pictures and enjoying the ambience of the area. As this was a sight I'd only dreamed of seeing, it felt almost surreal to actually be there. I had the same reaction to the Roman Forum and enjoyed knowing I was walking the same paths Julius Caesar and so many other historic figures had traveled. I found myself wanting to take a picture at every step to be sure I captured it all, and I truly felt the impact of being in the cradle of modern Western civilization.
Roaming Around Rome
Of course, there's much more to see here than just the ancient ruins. We enjoyed sitting on the Spanish steps, hanging out at the Trevi Fountain, touring the Pantheon (an amazing piece of ancient architecture,) and taking in the views from the Victor Immanuel Monument (although not as famous as some stops in Rome, you can't miss it on your way to the Colesseum - it's an enormous building that looks like a giant wedding cake.)
Rome is filled with countless piazzas - or town squares - both great and small, and each has it's own personality. Some are large, sporting numerous cafes, shops, fountains, and street artists, while others are smaller and less busy. It was fun to be walking along a narrow street and suddenly exit into another new piazza and see what it had to offer.
Adventures at the Vatican
How many people can say they've been kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica? I don't know, but we are now among that number. More to come on that in a moment.
First, some facts. This is another place where it's wise to pay extra and enter with a tour group - it cut our wait considerably and we truly got a lot out of the tour. Also, you must where clothing that covers your shoulders and knees to be admitted to St. Peter's Basilica.
Our tour covered St. Peter's Square, the Basilica, and the Vatican museum, including the Sistine Chapel. Upon entering the Basilica, we'd barely gotten started when an angry man approached our tour guide and began yelling at her in Italian. She reported that we were being thrown out because he didn't believe we were a real tour group and that she'd bring us back later. Weird but true, and we never did really understand what happened there. But on with the show.
We were, honestly, a little let down by the Sistine Chapel, which I'd long looked forward to seeing. It's an amazing piece of art, yes, but the ceiling is higher than I'd envisioned, so it's really pretty difficult to see. The whole room was packed with people craning their necks to try to take it in, which made everyone prone to bumping into each other. Plus you can't take pictures (understandable) and you can't talk (less understandable.)
After the chapel, it was back to the church, but we had to pretend we were not a tour group. (Again, confusing, I know.) But we enjoyed the un-tour of the basilica and were taken aback by the scope and size. Particularly notable items in the church: the famous Pieta by Michelangelo, the enormous canopy marking the (official but who knows) burial spot of St. Peter, and a statue of St. Peter to which, tradition holds, one should hold onto the toe, make three wishes, and they will come true.
One nice thing about being kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica: when we returned, hours had passed, and the sun shone through small windows in the dome, casting a heavenly glow on the floor, which made for amazing photos.
A Few Tips for Your Time in Rome
Finding Romance in Rome
Rome is busier and a bit more challenging in ways, but you still need not look far for romance here:
Ah, Rome. Two-thousand years of history and culture and architecture. It's a lot to take in, but it would be a crime to visit Italy without fully embracing it's exciting, bustling capital.
Ciao!
We travel a lot, but our trip to Italy was truly the romantic adventure of a lifetime.
Final tip: Take your time exploring romantic Italy, and eat a lot of gelato because it's just not as good at home, no matter what anyone says.
My first Travel Journal dealt with my recent trip to Siena and Chianti Country, part of a week-long whirlwind tour I won from Intrepid Travel, which took me back to a part of Italy I'd lived and studied in the 1970s. This second journal is about the time we spent hiking the Cinque Terre- a new place for me, and an extraordinarily beautiful one I was lucky to see.
Andrew, our tour group's resident wit, decided early on to annoint me "Mamma", tho' I'm all of 49 and he's 40; I played along, calling him "bambino" (or "mia bambino di piu schiffo e grasso nel'mondo", as I fondly put it...), and we had a lot of fun with what became a running gag for the entire week. (I began telling disbelieving Italians "I look good for 70, don't I?"- which indeed I do!) By the time we got to Riomaggiorre, a gorgeous little town on the coast of the Cinque Terre, we'd already become great fans of Grappa, and on the Cinque Terre we also became devotees of Limoncello... resulting in one Limoncello Party wherein Andrew convinced the Barrista to let "Mamma" pour the shots...
The grappa I consumed on this trip (and I drank on the "white"- the gold looked far finer...) was by far a "kindler & gentler" grappa than the rotgut I recall from my Wild Florentine Youth; grappa then was primarily a drink that old, rough men quaffed while standing in old, rough bars, late of an evening... But that was before "foodies" got hold of it- before the invention of the word "foodie", actually... Limoncello, on the other hand, is the sort of sickly-sweet liqueur that must be served Ice Cold, and preferably in frozen shot glasses, lest your teeth rot out before you get tiddly... But like grappa, it has a way of, uh, Growing on one... and so our group's Limoncello Evenings and Grappa Nights, topping off days of anchovy pannini, became an extremely enjoyable diversion!
"Mamma" hikes (part of) the Cinque Terre
Our tour included a one day pass for the Cinque Terre National Park, enabling one to walk and/or take the train between all the little towns along the coast. Starting out from Riomaggiore, "Mamma" hiked parts One & Two, walking along the mountain trail high above the absolutely magnificent coastline from Riomaggiore
to Cerniglia, stopping at cafes to sip my cappuchinos, photograph the boats parked along the streets, and people-watch. At that point, having been forewarned by Group Leader Tamara that the remaining sections involved
y Serious Hiking, "Mamma" took the (included) bus up into the historic town, strolled about seeing the sights, and then took the train all the way to Monterossa- and got there just in time to literally stumble into the Annual Monterossa Anchovy Festival for lunch! This was truly one of the "great good meals of life"- and I've never been a big anchovy fan! 
The Cinque Terre pass gives one entree to the Monterossa anchovy center, but who needed that, when for 4 Euro I could have a TOTALLY AMAZING pannino of Monterossa anchovies and diced roasted red peppers on crusty bread, with a glass of local white wine or a beer, standing in the sparkling sunlight smack in the center of Monterossa's central piazza???! I bought a jar of those delectable Monterossa anchovies (rolled & stuffed with sundried tomatoes), and recreated that meal as best as I could for my wonderful husband back in West Virginia!
After lunch I walked through the town and along the coast, and then took the train to Vernazza, and strolled thru that historic town and along the beach, and by the time I got back to Riomaggiore, and our darling Mar Mar Apartment, I was all strolled out and Pooped! The apartment we had was smack in the center of Riomaggiore, down one of the many winding little streets, right past a piazza full of children playing soccer beneath a great mural of vinyard workers by Benedetto. B is the artist whose mosaics and murals adorn the town, and I especially loved his "sea themed" mosaic on the walls of the RR tunnel one walks from the RR station (positively THE most gorgeous RR station!), into town...
That night we had our Last Group Dinner and another Limoncello/Grappa Night, but I was so pooped from sun and sea and walking and a surfeit of anchovies that I made it an early night for once! I woke up with the church bells, and spent my last morning in Riomaggiore meandering through town, finding another lovely cafe to sit in overlooking the sea, where I could sip my coffee watching the old fishermen joke with each other and play with their dogs...
Before getting on the train, I indulged in one Last Great Lunch of pasta with Salsa Noci (nut sauce) and a glass of house red, having found a darling trattoria where I could sketch in my journal while enjoying my pasta and wine...
And one day, G-d willing, I will return there with my husband, and climb up the mountain to the restaurant I found that overlooks the sea... but couldn't bear to eat at without him...