25 Search Results for "roma"

• Roma

  • From: vivalarock
  • Description:
  • 2 months ago
  • Views: 114

• lobby lounge at hotel re di ro

  • From: kate
  • Description:

    The bright colors, throw pillows, and magazines made this lounge instantly appealing to me.

  • 4 months ago
  • Views: 326
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• my room at hotel re di roma

  • From: kate
  • Description:

    Hotel Re di Roma felt more luxurious than most of the comparably priced Italian hotels where I've stayed. I was here in March 2009, about a year and a half after it opened.

  • 4 months ago
  • Views: 264
  • Not yet rated

• Roma a Roma and all Matera in

  • From: lindalovesitaly
  • Description:

    A free-spirited, economical Italian adventure for people who believe "If not now, when?"

  • Blog post
  • 5 months ago
  • Views: 94
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• Italy Latium B&B Torre Avellan

  • From: torreavellana
  • Description:

    idden Italy
    

    Torre Avellana is an ancient rural tower that, together with its cellars, has been transformed into an unusual dwelling that is, at the same time, characteristic, cosy and elegant. A perfect hideaway for those who seek tranquillity and comfort.

    For a romantic weekend in the heart of the Viterbese Tuscia region.

    Vignanello is a 20-minute car trip away from the Viterbo Thermal spas and less than an hour from Rome. From here you can easily reach Bagnaia, Orte, Bomarzo, Marta as well as the lakes of Vico and Bolsena.

    It is situated near to the motorway, to the regions of Tuscany and Umbria and this makes it an ideal starting point for longer-distance excursions.

    Hazelnut suite: double room with an ensuite bathroom. Pomegranate Suite: double room with a small private bathroom. Lemon Suite: double room with a small private bathroom. Sofa bed in the living room.

    The substantial breakfast and dinner are served in the ex-cellar: an extremely characteristic environment dug out of the tufa stone surroundings. The premises are equipped with an open-plan kitchen, a table to host more than 25 people, a wood-burning oven to cook pizzas and other traditional dishes and an open brickwork fireplace.

    We apologise for the fact that Torre Avellana DOES NOT have a lift.

    Bed and Breakfast min. 2 nights. Possibility of half-board stays.

    Holiday home, with the weekly leasing of the entire premises: total 7/8 beds.

    Upon request: transfers to/from Rome and airports.

    Organisation of sightseeing excursions.

    Tasting sessions of wines and local products.

    Italian language and Italian Cuisine courses for foreigners.

    www.torreavellana.ea23.com

    www.torreavellana.it

    For bookings, please contact +39 392 0707404

     

  • 6 months ago
  • Views: 199
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• Final Night in Rome

  • From: Lapis203
  • Description:

    In Italy for 13 days. Sienna, Emilia-Romagna, Venice, Florence, and ah, Roma. Little did we know this would be the only picture to survive from the entire trip. Our last night in Rome, just hours before heading back to Brooklyn.

  • 6 months ago
  • Views: 235

• Venice for first-timer Nov 08

  • From: joleighva
  • Description:

    What a first trip to Europe!! Can I go back now please???

    Pros for going in November: cheaper (off-season), Opera season opening, cooler (upper 50s to low 60s during the day and 40s at night), less-crowded, some sales going on for end-of-season

    Cons for going in November: usually cooler but if not the air conditioning has been turned off in most hotels, and if you open your windows at night the bugs can get ya, Acqua Alta starts in November - most of the city is flooded between a few inches and a few feet http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nO9WWaIP46Y&feature=related  which happens randomly, mostly in winter and there are elevated walkways set out in larger walkways and piazzas and it doesn't seem to keep the shops and most attractions from opening, some shops or outdoor restaurants are closed or close early

    Getting there: I finally bugged my ex-Navy husband until he relented to go with me to a few places he'd already been, but I hadn't. We left VA on November 5 and flew to Venice on a red-eye thru JFK in NYC. We were in coach. If I had to do it again, I would break it up more. That was an awfully long (7 hour?) flight where sleep did not come easy. So, book first class, go thru Paris, or take a sleeping pill. Arriving in Venice on the 6th we had decided to take the 12 euro Alilaguna water service to the St. Marks area where our hotel was located. Be advised that this is a separate system than the vaparetto service and has different drop offs. One of the routes takes about an hour, the other 90 minutes. Our hotel had a vaparetto stop out front, but the Alilaguna dropped off about 2 blocks away. Knowing this we were certain to pack as efficiently as possible. Make sure your suitcase is not too heavy and has functioning wheels, cause even the 'flat' places can be difficult to get over, let alone the bridges. You can also take taxis or busses to Piazzale Roma if you're staying in that area, or the train if you're in that area.

    Hotel:We chose the Monaco Hotel & Grand Canal for three reasons: proximity to vaparetto service, central location, and decent price. The two blocks we dragged our luggage were relatively easy, though you can pay 90 euro (plus tip) for a water taxi (up to 6 people and their luggage) from the airport and never have to touch your luggage again as they drop you off into the lobby. The hotel was lovely and had a pricey though fabulous restaurant right on the Grand Canal. It is on a street of designer boutiques, and while the lobby and hallways are quite modern, the rooms retain the Venetian furnishings that remind you where you are. We paid 250 euros for a superior double which was essentially a suite. They do have canal view rooms, but they are 600 euros or more a night...no thank you. Also, there is an ATM NEXT DOOR, which could not have been more convenient to get euros. The only complaint I had was the bed was hard. However, the soaking tub in the huge, all marble bathroom MORE than made up for that. Also, there may be language barriers existing here, so call or email your prospective hotel prior to booking. In this hotel, a single is ONE bed, a 'double' is TWO beds and all may be queen sized or may only be twin. So check.

    Getting around: I brought a pocket sized laminated map I had bought at a bookstore at home. That WAS helpful, in finding the general area we wanted to go to. Especially if you speak little Italian. Memorize these words "Bonjourno!" (bon-JOR-no) which is "Good day!" and used as you would Hello, "Grazie" (grrr-at-zi) "thank you" use it often and with feeling, and "Dov e" (dO-vay) emphasis on the 'O' which is "Where is?" and follow it with the name of what you're looking for. They will serve you well, and you can get around quite well with only these words.

    Walking:There are signs on the ends of buildings (occasionally) that say things like "ACCADEMIA ---> " And can be as confusing as helpful sometimes. I personally love the ones that have San Marco with arrows pointing BOTH ways. But I found that from around 8 AM to 9 PM, if you watched, you could see snaking lines of people following certains routes, and those routes were usually in the direction you wanted to go, especially if you were going to a landmark or near one. Look up occasionally and check for signs on the corners of buildings to make sure you're going in the right direction. If you need something off the beaten path, you may have to ASK *gasp* a Venetian. Generally, I found most to be quite helpful when I started off in their language. "Scuzi, dov e  San Marco?" (roughly, very roughly, Excuse me, where is Saint Marks?) Most will act short or bored with you, because you are the twelfth tourist this morning who has asked, but some will surprise you and be quite amiable, even speak to you in english if they know it.

    Boating: Tronchettos ONLY go directly across the Grand Canal, in place of Bridges, and you may have to stand up in it's canoe-like space with many others, like sardines. Hubby had to try it. I walked down and took a Vaporetto. If you'll be there for more than a day and will take a Vaparetto more than twice a day, buy the pass (right there at the airport OR at the vaparetto dock) it'll be more economical. Make sure your map has the Vaparetto stops on it. You will be grateful, and you feet will thank you. If you don't have a map, you can get a photocopied one from your hotel lobby.

    IF YOUR HOTEL OFFERS A FREE MURANO TOUR, READ BELOW BEFORE YOU AGREE.

    First day itinerary starting at approx 1 PM...

    Accademia: We went here first. Walked to the Accademia Bridge which I took a minimum of 100 pictures from. There's a cute little restaurant just to your left after you exit the bridge, and we stopped there and had lunch. Venetian style pizza and beer. The food was good, the view, sitting right there next to the Grand Canal, was AMAZING! Really made us feel we had arrived in Venice. The Accademia itself is full of mostly medieval era religious art from paintings to tapestries to accoutrements. I'd rate it an 8, but def not one I need to go back to. It took us about an hour at a lope. I did find the paintings of the old Doges, elected rulers of Venice, painted into scenes of the crucifixtion next to Mary and others quite amusing. If you're into religious art, add an hour.

    Friari Church: A definate 10! We walked here from the Accademia within 10 minutes. We had added this to our itenerary on the advice of a friend. I wasn't prepared for what we found. First, from the outside, the church doesn't look like much. But after you pay your 3 euros each, you enter the church on the side. It's bigger than it looked. You walk to the middle and to your left is a huge choir area. As you walk around or thru it, you realize that there is not one nave but three, all of which are incredibly beautiful. Make sure you take a seat, and take it all in. There are huge, priceless works of art everywhere. There are crypts of medieval rich people in the walls. It's fascinating. A DEFINATE DON'T MISS!

    Rialto Bridge: Made sure to hit this just as it was getting dark. During the day a 9, at night a 10. All the lights off the Grand Canal were amazing. The Bridge is lined on both sides with tourist-type shops. There are alot of the same glass objects here. However, it is also the cheapest place to buy glass (prices are at least 1/3 more in San Marco square shops). Make sure you inspect your purchases well before buying cause few give refunds, even after 5 minutes. The shops continue down onto the lanes leading from the bridge. Be advised tho that most of the shops close early in the off season, so by 8 or 9 pm, most of them are closed. But that's okay, cause just strolling along the streets and over the tiny connecting bridges back to our hotel was unbeleivable. Venice is truly different at night than during the day. In the best possible way.

    We were fine with turning in early that night since we had little sleep the night before!

    Second day intinerary:

    Murano: A 10 for me, prob an 8 for you. The next morning at 8:30 am, we took the FREE MURANO TOUR (there AND back, "running every 30 minutes") thru our hotel. I'm a glass artist, and there's nowhere I'd rather be than glass heaven. Fortunately we knew what we were in for. Here's how it works: your hotel has a deal with a factory (there are several) on Murano. The water taxi picks you up and takes you to their dock (don't forget a few euro tip for the boat guy), where you're met by a 'personal tour guide' aka 'personal glass pusher' and taken into the furnace room where you watch a 'glass master' working on a 'masterpiece'. Well lemme tell ya, if that was a glass master, I'm a purple pig. That was a demo man, an apprentice at the most, probably making only the most basic of the trinkets sold in the cheap glass store. Next to the pieces straight from China, of which there are plenty in Venice. The true masters would never be interupted by gawkers while they're working. But it was amusing to watch the dozen other people there ooohing and ahhing. Heehee. Then you're 'invited' aka 'required' to walk thru their showroom and look at the true masterpieces, none of which are less than several hundred or several thousand euros. I LOVED THIS PART. Rooms and rooms and rooms of gorgeous glass art, most of which was imported, not made at this factory. It took a very knowing look, and an explanation of being a glass artist myself, to elicit from our 'guide' which two rooms of the dozen were truly made in this factory. I would have considered buying a piece from here, however it was all still overpriced. Oh well. So we thanked him for his time, and asked to be shown the door. We did end up tipping him 5 euro, but that was not asked for or necessary. But I would've paid more for a glass museum, so there ya go.

    Head to the canal that parts the sides of Murano and look up and down the way for the Vaparetto stop. If you can see it, you're on the expensive end of Murano. Take the big green bridge and go down the side where you can't see it. I found several lovely gifts for peeps back home, but most shops have all the same crap, so find the ones selling them as close to 10 euro as you can get. If you want a nice vase, bowl or plate of a decent size, don't spend more than a 100 euro unless it's excellent quality or larger than normal.

    Now, here's where we made our first mistake. We didn't allow enough time for me to wander in paradise and get all the gifts I was needing. BTW, don't let them talk you into the glass bottle openers unless they will be for display only. They don't work and fall apart if used. If you want something cheap peeps can actually use, go for a letter opener, and expect to spend 15 to 20 euro on it...12 if you're really lucky, or the glass bottle stoppers for no more than 12 euros. And don't be afraid to try to make a deal, especially if you're not having it shipped or you're buying multiples. I found six bottle stoppers for 12 euro each, and all I had to say was "Do you offer discounts for several?" and Voila! I had six for 50 euro!

    Now for our second mistake. We beleived the 'every 30 minutes return'. Uhhh no. Try an hour and a half. We were late meeting our friends who flew in that day and were staying in our hotel. In the future, we'll take the vaparetto back. And mark my words, i will go back!!!

    So, my suggestion for murano is GO! Go early before it gets crowded. Use the FREE boat ride from the hotel to save you a vaparetto ride and get you in some cool showrooms and to see how they make the glass. DON'T feel pressured to buy anything. And if you do see something you can't do without, know you're paying an elevated price for it and try to get them as low as possible. Shop on the cheaper side, away from the vaparetto stop, then use the Vaperetto to get back so you do it in a timely manner.

    We caught up with our friends who were eating lunch without us on the Grand Canal, and went into St. Marks for the afternoon.

    St. Marks Area: Thanks to an arch at the opposite end of St Marks from the Basilica, we had only a block and a half to the square. Be advised, due to the influx of cruise ship passengers and other day-trippers, St Marks is often quite packed after about 9 AM. However, we got up early ( 8 am) the next day and were able to get pics with very few peeps, and have it mostly to ourselves.

    Also, if you're going to go into the Basilica, which I highly recommend, in essentially may thru october, there will be a HUGE line to get in, and every third person WILL be a pickpocket. Here's the trick, for every two people you have, take a backpack or tote, filled with crap if ness. They don't allow anything larger than a small purse inside, (which is fine cause you should ASSUME YOU WILL BE PICK-POCKETED) so once you get to the head of the line (sometimes after an hour and a half wait) they will send you round the corner to check your bag (free) and get a white head-of-line ticket in return for two people. So why wait in the line to start with? Instead, walk past the Basilica on the left, past the lion, and the first street you come to on the left, turn in. The second door on the right is the check in area. Thank you Rick Steves for that suggestion. DO NOT MISS ST MARKS BASILICA! Go directly to the head of the line, wave your white ticket and they will send you to the counter to pay. BUY THE PASS THAT INCLUDES THE MUSEO Di SAN MARCO, http://www.museosanmarco.it/index_eng.bsm it is up a narrow flight of stairs that will give you the best workout EVER, and handicapped of ANY kind will not be able to be accomodated, but it soooo worth it. They have the original brass horses, an inside balcony you can look out into St Marks from, and the most amazing outdoor balcony you can see the whole square from. Take your camera! Allow one hour for the Basilica and 45 minutes for the museum, depending on how much gazing you do from the outside balcony.

    Tip for the Campenielle, the huge tower just opposite the Basilica (yes there is an elevator). The view is amazing, but DO NOT go up near the top of the hour...it IS a bell tower, and the bells DO ring on the hour. You will be deaf for the rest of the day.

    The building to the left of the Campeneille is the Correr Museum. I'd rate it a 7, BUT if you buy the museum pass there, you get into the Doge's Palace for free essentially, or vice versa. Plus you don't have to wait in line for the Palace. You can even buy them online before you go and include ALL the museums or just those. http://www.tickitaly.com/galleries/museums-venice-italy.php     DON'T MISS THE DOGE'S PALACE! IT IS AMAZING!! Truly incredible. The entrance is at the end of the building across from the water. Allow yourself at least two hours for this. Really. It also includes walking onto the Bridge of Sighs and going into the dungeons. There's also a special tour on the above site you can pay for. I've heard from a friend it's awesome.

    We then took our friends back to the Rialto Bridge, stopping to shop on the way. We had some dinner there at a restaurant the hotel got kickbacks from, but was good anyway. If you can barely communicate with the waiter, you're in the right place. The food will be authentic. Then we wandered, arm-in-arm bu couple, lazily around the San Polo district until we were tired and chose to head back to our hotel. At no time did I feel unsafe, even though I kept alert for it, and we stuck to large streets and not alleyways. The Venetians eat late and there are lots of restaurants with outside tables on the larger streets. Only once did I catch a young man behind us for longer than most would follow us, since we were walking slowly. And as we passed a storekeeper sweeping up outside, I saw him smack the guy square in the chest with a broom and start telling him off. So, there are more Venetians looking out for you than there are looking to hurt you. But don't tempt fate.

    The following morning we ladies returned to St Marks for shopping...mostly window shopping. BUT I did find an excellent deal on a millifiore pendant light that was perfect for my kitchen. I greated the storekeeper with a sunny "Bonjourno!" and he smiled and came over immediately and asked in english if he could help us find something. In nearly better english than I. I perused his excellent selection until a horrid woman came rushing into the shop literally screaming "ENGLISH?? ENGLISH??" And the lovely gentleman who had been so kind to me suddenly looked quite confused and acted as if he knew little. I was standing there with my mouth hanging open as she spoke louder and louder as if it would make him understand. She was definately American. I was apalled. He managed to find what she was asking for, charged her twice what it had been marked, and she was leaving when I showed his employee which one I wanted, then excused myself leaving my friend there for a moment. I caught the woman a few steps away from the shop. I told her I knew she was probably in a hurry, looking for her last trinkets as I was, but that going into a store screaming "ENGLISH!" and talking loudly to make people understand was rude. And if she wanted to get a better reception and therefore better prices, she may try speaking in a normal tone and remembering that anyone who spoke english to us was being KIND, that we were in THEIR country. And that I didn't think we'd find Venetians coming to our country without knowing english and expecting people to know italian. And I walked away. She huffed off, but maybe she heard me. Little did I know that because we were in the arch there, everything I said was heard in the store. So suddenly the pendant I was expecting to pay 140 euros for had become 100. Huh. Well GRAZIE!!!

    After a half-hour long political discussion with another shop keeper (it was less than a week after Obama was elected) we joined the men who had tried to balance our spending by going to the now free Correr museum (hubby's rating of 7) and picked up our luggage at the hotel. We stepped out of the lobby into our private water taxi, never touched our luggage again, and were taken straight to our cruise ship around 1 pm. Which was really the easiest embarkation EVER. But that's for the next blog.

    WHEN I go back to Venice:  I will definately stay for more than two nights. I could use an entire day just strolling around arm in arm with my husband, taking in the sights and sound of Venice. Will see the Doge's Palace, the Friari Church and the Rialto bridge again, taking our time this time. I truly can't put into words how gorgeous their pink sunsets are as night settles over the city, with the water lapping at the edges of everything and the bells tolling over it all. It will take your breath away. I hope you'll go. And I hope this blog can help ya know what to do when you get there!

  • Blog post
  • 7 months ago
  • Views: 427

• kchaptx

  • Points:250
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  • Since: 7 months ago

• Mom on the Run: Provence

  • From: LTBergren
  • Description:

    Okay, so if you’ve read my other BT journals, you know I’ve had some pretty terrific trips. But part of traveling is learning how to negotiate challenges and finding your way through difficulty, even when things don’t fall together exactly as you had envisioned. I call it Travel Head. With TH, you don’t get mired in frustration and disappointment; you look for the next best option to help keep you moving forward. Without TH, you might find yourself in a bad situation, or even a completely ruined holiday, because you can’t see the good among the bad.

    Granted, by the time I reached French soil, I was fried. Mentally, I’d just taken care of pretty much every administrative detail in leading my three children, spouse and parents through Rome, Tuscany and Venice for twelve days. The day before, my four-year-old threw up on a vaparetto in Venice and was obviously suffering from a bout of stomach flu. Emotionally, I was worn out from being the anchor point for six unique personalities, and stressed and suffering from SMG (Severe Mom Guilt), certain that I’d just committed my husband to the international equivalent of a gulag: a seventeen hour flight home as a “single parent,” with three children (4, 9, and 12) who might all have the flu by this time. In my darkest visionings, Tim even had it. Ugh.

    But I had gotten as far as Italy, and had some research to do in a neighbor to her north, Provence, for a medieval trilogy I was writing. And in my era, the pope wasn’t home in Roma, he was in Avignon. I simply had to get there if I was to do a half-decent job of writing the book. So with my hubby’s blessing and air kisses to all my family (I didn't want to get sick either!), off I went. But I didn't get very far. There was a strike at the airport in Venice so I was bussed two hours away to catch another puddle jumper flight to Marseilles. I had no idea what was transpiring with my folks, heading back to CA, or my immediate family, heading home to CO. My international cell phone suddenly wasn’t working. And after all that intense time together, I was suddenly feeling very, very alone. Cut off.
    

    For all the time I’d put into planning our multi-gen trip to Italy, I had little more than a small guide book, car and hotel reservation for my five days in Provence. Oh, and did I mention, Je ne comprends pas Francais? (Probably lame French right there…pieced together from back of guide book.) Not the most auspicious of beginnings. But, I thought, I am a confident woman who has traveled solo before…the world is becoming flat…I can get pretty far with a smile and pleasant attitude. So, having made it to the airport bordering the arid, white-washed, rugged rocks of the Cote d’Azur, and with the help of a businessman who spoke great English and made me purchase a Michelin map, I motored out of the airport parking lot and onto my next adventure.

    NOTE: I made a critical mistake in not spending one more minute checking out the car before I pulled out; they had brought the car to the front of the office for me. Mirrors, instruments all seemed in order. But it wasn’t until I was entering the medieval city of Avignon—picture narrow, winding, walled, cobblestone streets and tons of people—that I realized I couldn’t put the car in reverse. My husband and father had been driving in Italy; I knew they had to choke up on the clutch in some way that was new to both of them, and it hadn’t been easy. But that wasn’t working. (Worse, I knew the address of my hotel, but I wasn’t exactly sure how to get to it or where I was supposed to park—great info to nab before YOU go.)

    At Last…Avignon

    I drove around the city a couple of times, then, taking a deep breath, plunged inward, praying I wouldn’t end up entering a one-way street, going the wrong way, with no way to reverse, and a bunch of people yelling in French at me. I'm a fiction writer, so yeah, I could just see the whole thing playing out, which made it all the worse. I decided to park underneath the Palais des Papes, leave my luggage behind and scout out the small city on foot. A kindly man in the parking garage showed me how to find the button and choke up to get the car in reverse, and suddenly I was breathing much more easily. I’m sure he walked away muttering about the stupid, blond American behind him, but I didn’t care…Capability of placing my car in reverse meant a special kind of freedom.

    My hotel, the lovely 19^th C. Hotel de l’Horloge (http://en.federal-hotel.com/hotel-information_hotel-de-l-horloge_4122.htm) two blocks from the Palais des Papes, and perched on the edge of the picturesque, 15^th Century Place de L’Horloge, popped into view. Happy my luck seemed to be changing, I checked in and then went back to the garage to retrieve my bag. (Apparently, you can park nearby, but I wasn’t moving my rental if I could help it.) I asked the friendly man at the front desk where I could grab a simple meal—“All I need is a bowl of soup and glass of wine,”—suddenly having difficulty imagining anything but a long, hot soak in the tub.

    He directed me to the simple, touristy restaurant next door, which I wouldn't recommend but was perfect for me that night. And in a cool, traveler’s luck moment, I ended up sitting next to a couple from the U.S.;  the middle-aged man was a writer, researching the letters of some medieval noble, having gained amazing access to them for the week. Fluent in French, he was all set to begin transcribing in a dark, musty room while his wife tooled about. Wishing him luck, and fired up over my own research, I moved back upstairs to my third floor hotel room, ran a hot bath and fell to sleep, blissfully happy to be settled and secure for the night.

    Fort? Palace?…Umm…We’ll Call it the “Fortace,” Palais des Papes

    The first item on my research list was to spend time, ad nauseum—you really don’t want to hang with me when I’m on a research bent--in the gothic Palais des Papes (http://www.sacred-destinations.com/france/avignon-palais-des-papes.htm), a colossal structure built 1334-1352. I spent six hours there, but a couple hours would give you a good sense of it. I rented the audio guide—something I’d do with kids, should I ever return with my own. It allows people to explore at their own pace, repeat information they might not have heard the first time, and skip what they find disinteresting. But this is a massively interesting building and of my Top Three stops in Provence. Majestic, barrel-vaulted rooms, 14^th century frescoes, quiet cloisters, idyllic courtyards, crisp meeting halls, and fearsome crenellations that make it as much a fortress as a castle. Here in Avignon, the papacy was housed, when Rome proved too politically dangerous—and France proved her political pull. The papacy eventually returned to Rome, but in the meantime, this ancient city exploded with growth.

    Conveniently situated on the edge of the Rhone, and built atop Roman ruins, Avignon had always been a major trade center, and with the pope and his court ensconced here, it became a major pilgrimage/political stop. It is estimated that over 100,000 people moved in, because of the commerce the court generated. Consequently, the city became unbearable (imagine 100K people and no appropriate sewage system…ahem) and most of the nobles moved across the 11^th century Pont St. Benezet bridge (still partially there!), to the sweeter-smelling Villeneuve-les –Avignon. From this side of the Rhone, you can gain an amazing view of the towering Rocher des Domes (the cliff face that abuts the palais; outstanding gardens and views from up there too), as well as the palace.

    My hotel offered a fantastic, broad-spectrum breakfast, served until 10am (a real boon for families—also, the hotel has a “family room” that can accommodate families traveling together; ask about it). And I had gnoshed on French bread and cheese as a snack, but as the afternoon drew to a close and they booted me out of the Palais des Papes (only open until 5ish in the spring), I scouted for a nice, cozy place to grab dinner, off the touristy plazas. Gambling on one with five tables and no visible sign, I settled in, and managed to order a small dinner salad with figs and loup au fenouil—sea bass cooked in white wine and fennel. Two men sitting next to me struck up a conversation in halting English, obviously intrigued that I was out on my own, told me the three “must-sees” of the area, and afterward, directed me to an Internet café down the street.

    I wandered the warmly lit, cobblestone street and found my Internet café, where I would frequent twice a day afterward, hungry for news of my family and of home. Turned out, my family had made it, safe and sound, with no further flu repercussions. I sighed audibly enough to draw the attention of the guy at the next computer, officially relieved of SMG. He gave me a puzzled smile and then returned to his own cybertalk. I returned to my hotel for another hot bath, and a glass of spicy Chateauneuf-du-Pape. (But of course…the pope had his own vineyards! Curiously, the vines grow out of the rockiest soil you’ve ever seen but produce a special grape.)

    Zee Pont du Gard

    The next day, I headed out to the Pont du Gard. Irritatingly, Disney uses this bridge as an example of their new family trips (seen that pic of the cute kid in the kayak beside an ancient Roman aqueduct? I’d wager that’s here.) It irritates me because it was my discovery first. Okay, not really my discovery first—it’s been here for 2000 years, but you know what I mean. I want real travelers to experience this place—not just another massive tourist group. The Pont du Gard was one #2 of my Top Three favorite stops; not only is it fun to wander the ancient, mortarless, limestone structure (later made into a bridge) and see the pretty hillsides and river, it has a pretty fantastic museum (kid-friendly with some interactive exhibits). The aqueduct’s remains can be seen in many places throughout the Bouches-des-Rhone, but here, it’s most spectacular. Once, this aqueduct carried 4.4 million gallons daily, across 31 miles, to quench the thirst of Nimes. Guess those Roman dudes knew a thing or two. Spending some time there, studying the engineering feat, brings home the brilliance of that once-great society.

    Les Baux: Land of Dante’s Inferno

    I left the Pont and found D986, heading to Les Baux-de-Provence, another Top Three stop. Provence was drier than I expected after the lush spring green of Tuscany; more arid, feeling sun-baked and wind-swept everywhere I went. Les Baux, an incredible castle carved out of a rocky spur in the climbing Alpilles, above the beautiful Valley Fontaine, has views that reach across to the Camargue—the wetlands to the south. This place gets TONS of tourists in the summertime, so be sure to go early if that’s when you’re in the vicinity. But do stop and wander her streets, and don’t get so distracted by the shopping (Provence has better pottery than Tuscany!) or the crepes (served by uptight, rude waitresses apparently sick to death of tourists) that you miss the citadel. Not much remains of the castle, beyond carved dovecotes and the half-domes of ancient, grand, 10^th century rooms, but you can imagine the Lords of Les Baux, fierce warriors, as well as the originators of the Courts of Love—think troubadours, poets, singing. They have life-size models of medieval warfare weaponry all about, which would be great for kids to see, but from what I could gather, no docents/anyone to explain them unless you come during Tourist Hell Season. Speaking of hell, across from Les Baux, the eerie, white-washed caves are said to have inspired the visiting Dante to write his tale of impurity, sin and damnation. I’ll admit it…I stared at them and shivered. But maybe it was the 50 MPH winds on a 45 degree day.

    I returned to Avignon for some sort of beef and red wine dish, with a touch of orange peel and lots of onions (oo la la!) and landed a small van tour to St. Remy-de-Provence the next day. Two women I had met up with had told me they had just spent three days in Marseilles, unwinding a terrible robbery incident that had left one with a knife wound on her arm and face, and I decided to stick with a small group.

    WARNING: I guess this is a common scheme. The women were bird-watching near La Camargue; amazing flamingoes there! A man approached them, told them they had a flat tire and offered to help them change it (they later figured out he had slashed it himself). He changed the tire, threw the slashed tire into the trunk, then before they could quite believe it, moved to the driver’s seat and took off. That’s where it would end for most people, but one of these women jumped in with him, determined to not let him get away with passport, purse, keys, luggage, rental car, everything! She was very lucky to not have been hurt worse. After slashing her arm and face, he pushed her out of the car, and they still ended up trying to figure it all out in Marseilles. A terrible way to spend precious vacation days and money…always be aware of those who might be preying upon you! I’m not saying you want to always be looking over your shoulder and miss what’s ahead; I’m saying just be smart. Aware. Read up on what the specialty of thieves is ahead of you—some things remain the same, country to country (pickpockets) but many countries develop their own special brand of crime.

    The Stars of St. Remy
    

    Our group wasn’t a tourist group per se—you already know how I feel about that—more seven travelers (2 Brits, 2 Americans plus me, 2 French) who were heading in the same direction…and didn’t care to drive. The driver stopped in several small towns, then returned for us a couple hours later. It was a great way to scout out a few more stops! But St. Remy, birthplace of 16^th c. Nostradamus (which I happened to wander by—outer wall of the avenue Hoche), 1889 recovery retreat for Vincent Van Gogh (after he mutilated his ear; and this was where he painted “Starry Night”), is special. This is a village known for her spices and arts. I had the driver drop me in Glanum, the 400-10 BC. Greco-Roman ruins about a mile outside the city (there’s an especially cool triumphal arch memorializing Caesar’s conquest of the Greeks and Gaul and a mausoleum), and then made my way inward, stopping for a croissant and coffee and watching a bunch of old men in berets play some sort of leather ball and pin game. I stumbled into a photographer’s studio, one I recognized from some US publishers’ book covers; turns out he was a Romanian ex-pat now living in St. Remy “because of the air, the light, the people.” I wanted to buy one of the ethereal prints in his dusty, lonely studio, but couldn’t justify the $1500 price tag at the end of a seventeen day, sucky Euro-to-USD-exchange rate trip. But I still think about “Man Under Big Blue Sky” and muse over contacting him, seeing if it’s still hanging on the wall, just waiting for me.

    But this girl had just about gotten what she needed from Provence this time ‘round. After another night in the charming hotel, a walk around the entire city wall of Avignon, and a few museum stops, I had collected enough details of the history, visuals and general feel of the place. I was ready to head home and reunite with my family. And get started on that novel…

    I’ll look forward to returning to Provence in the future and seeing some sights I missed this time—I’d love to go in the spring and see the fields of purple lavender—or  take in Orange, with her Roman ruin treasures. I met several moms from Atlanta, traveling with their preteen daughters, who had taken the speed train from Paris down to Provence for a few days, a lovely option for those wishing to expand their understanding of this country. Maybe I’ll do that with my own daughters someday soon.

    What’s to hold me back? Next time, I’ll even be able to put my car rental in reverse…from the start. :-)

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• Bella Roma

  • From: Jennifer Eisenlau
  • Description:
    Big bad beautiful Rome!
  • 1 year ago
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• Arreviderchi, Roma! Breaking U

  • From: Jennifer Eisenlau
  • Description:

     

    

    Bella Roma,

    I am writing this letter to say farewell. I must break up with you. I will miss you, but you are a cruel and fickle mistress. You see, I have found another.

    Ah, dearest Roma. You are so splendid and gorgeous, with your Coliseum, Forum, and Trevi Fountain. I am a mere college instructor, who brings students to you, to show off your wonders in conjunction with “Humanities 1: The Ancient World.” Seeing you was the highlight of my year.

    But, I’ve met another. One of your cousins, I believe. No, it’s not Paris. Let’s not talk about her, another sopohicate following in your footsteps. No, this cousin of yours is a bit less fabulous, a bit more solid, and a bit more comfy. She’s Munich.

    Yes, I said Munich. Don’t laugh. She’s a wonderful destination: clean, safe, and delightful.

     

    First, let’s get real here, Roma: the theft on your streets is rampant. How many more of my students must be robbed before I say enough? Well, enough is enough. Last visit, one girl was robbed of her purse as she sat at a café table. The thief must have been sitting under the table all along. Another young woman lost $1000 as she rode the bus. A digital camera with over 400 photographs vanished from another girl’s zippered-up and closely-held bag. The worst? A student from another college was mugged by three gypsies at noon on the Spanish Steps. Two women grabbed his arms and caused a scene by screaming, “The daddy of my baby!” The third thief slipped up from behind and cleaned out his pockets.

    In Munich, one of my students left his bag in a restaurant. He got it back an hour later. Another young man left a backpack on a bench. Again, he got it back. No one was robbed. None of my students were terribly vigilant like in Rome, where we tucked wallets into bra and pinned purses closed. No, like being at home, the students simply carried on and never gave theft a serious thought.

    The travelers from my college felt safe in the bosom of Munich—and she, too, like you Roma, has a dark past. You have your gladiators and bloodbaths. Munich has her own dark moments with the Nazi movement. She is no naïve little waif. However, today, the darkness does not worry the traveler.

     

    Munich is clean and bright, even underground. The Rome's subway is a bit scarier and a lot grubbier than that of her northern cousin. Munich feels safe. Polizei roam the area, looking tough and efficient. Roma, your cops are so handsome—but they seem rather useless, as they loiter gorgeously in doorways.

    I know Roma, and I hear you whispering, “But what of my culture?” I worried about this too, after all, I link our college travels to academic credit. I was a tiny bit concerned about Munich. And wow! Did Munich deliver the goods! My students enrolled in “Humanities 2: From the Medieval to the Modern.” Your German cousin was a Renaissance wonder and a Baroque beauty.

    Your siren song continues: “But what of my wine? My food? My vita dolce?” Yes, I cannot disagree. Your gelato is heavenly, but…Munich’s Apfelkuchen with cream is also a bit of heaven. And wine, well…German wine is fine. And the beer? Sitting in Munich’s famed Hofbrauhaus with a tankard in one hand, a salty pretzel in the other, a crispy schnitzel before, and an ompah band serenading the raucous crowd, well, it is a bit easy to get over our break-up.

    Take care and stay well. Perhaps if you get over your wicked ways, Roma, I will return. Until then, Arreviderchi. Or should I say, Auf Wiedersehen!?

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• AN AMAZING MONTH IN ITALY

  • From: juve1040
  • Description:

    My husband and I spent the month of May in Italy. Being of Italian decent I was truly excited but the fact that I had done lots of geneology work and had found the village where my grandmother was born was an added bonus. Before leaving the States, I made arrangements and hired an English speaking driver and a car to take me to my village in the small commune called Albano de Lucania.

    We decided to do two tours with Cosmos. The first tour started and ended in Rome. What a magical city!! I could spend many days there and still be fascinated. Such history. It is amazing to stand inside the Colosseum after viewing it so often in various movies. We did all the touristy things, i.e. The Vatican, Sistine Chapel, St. Peter's Square and the Roman Forum.

    We moved South and visited Naples. At this point, our driver was to pick us up for the 2 1/2 hour drive to Albano. He was terrific...almost as excited as I was at the prospect of visiting the village. The people at the municipal building went our of their way to help me. I give them the street address and they brought me to the small building where my grandmother was born. I was overwhelmed!!!! When we returned to the municipal building, I received another amazing piece of information. They told me that I had cousins living in the next town and that they had called them and told them we would be going to see them. We drove to this town called Vaglio and we were greeted by these wonderful people. They couldn't have been nicer and they made us feel welcome in their home. It was truly a marvelous day for me and for them also as the tears flowed from us all. Unfortunately we had to leave, but we have been in touch since then.

    Italy is intriging. There are so many marvelous sights to see. Sorrento, Pompeii with its preserved homes. Our overnight cruise to Palermo and the Valley of Temples in Agrigento. Then to Syracuse to the 5th century BC Greek Theatre and to Taormina. What a beautiful place. High up on a mountain top with spectacular views.

    It would take pages for me to tell you everything about the places we visited and the wonderful Italian people that we met everywhere. Places like Agrigento, Syracuse, Matera and wonderful Alberobello with their unique cone shaped homes called Trulli.

    We ended the first tour in Rome and visited the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps and of course did lots of shopping. Then onward to Pisa and the Leaning Tower and Florence to visit the amazing statue of David.

    Next we were on our way to Milan, Lugano and Lake Maggiore. This area is so beautiful, it is hard to put into words. We visited Isola Bella, a privately owned Island with a barque palace and gardens full of peacocks.Saying goodbye to Lake Maggiore, we headed to Verona and after that to Venice. Yes, it is as beautiful as they say. More so perhaps. St. Marks Square, the Doges' Palance and of course the famous Bridge of Sighs. We couldn't miss the Murano Glass blowers either as well as lunch at Harry's Restaurant and my favorite, our gondola ride!

    We stopped in Ravenna and then to Assisi. Since we had missed the excursion to Capri (that was the day I found my relatives) we had another opportunity to visit that wonderful Isle and to spend another night in Sorrento, one of my many favorite cities.

    On the way back to Rome we visited the Abbey of Montecassino which was another wonderous place.

    Condensing a month into this short description is no easy task. I am sure many folks have gone to Italy and enjoyed it as much as we did, but the extra bonus of seeing the home of your grandmother and finding cousins to boot, cannot be beaten. So we said "Arrivederci Roma" for now. I do expect to return one day. After all, I threw my coins in the fountain!!

    

     

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• Falling in Love in Italy is Ea

  • From: jacks4teen
  • Description:

    My lastest trip to Italy in September 2008 was the one where family and friends hoped that I would find the love of my life. Although I was unable to bring back someone, I did in fact fall in love. Italy always has its way with me in that area. Read my journal below to find out more about my love affair in Italy.

    My Italian Journey- September 2008

    I returned to Italy this time on my own secretly hoping to find the love of my life. After all, it only seems natural that he is here: visiting, living, or vacationing. Probably his name is Luca or Antonio. Maybe he has dark brown eyes that radiate warmth and passion. His slightly gelled dark brown hair glistens in the sun. His long, prominent nose houses his Gucci sunglasses- probably no?

    What I’ve discovered instead immediately upon arrival in Milan is that it is Italy that I yearn for. The feeling of complete peace and inexplicable joy when I bust out the airport doors and see him, breathe him, wrap my arms around him. Ah yes, it is Italy I am in love with. It is Italy I am passionate about. He makes me cry happy tears, breathe relaxing breaths, and brings comfort to my soul. He even brings a satisfied night of relaxed and tranquil sleep. Italy- I wish I could bring you back to meet my friends and family and be with you forever. Allora, some things are better left where they are and so today I return after two years without being near you. Lago Di Como is my first stop. My arms are wide open. It is so good to see you again.

    Lago di Como

    Ciao! You look beautiful as usual. The colors of your cobblestone roads continue to take my breath away. Oh and your cliffed terrain landscape along the green/blue freshwater lake ain’t looking so bad either. Have you been working out? I visited Garibaldi Square and sat for awhile to absorb your beauty. Yes, I did have a gelato- un piccolo pistachio per favore. E molte bene, certo! I walked with you along the waterfront and took a good look at you. I remember you looking this way when I saw you last along the Amalfi. Remember? It was 2006 and my brother was there. Sono molto stanca. I kiss you goodnight. I can’t wait to see what you have planned for us tomorrow. Buona notte mio amore.

    Como e Bellagio

    Today I took the funicola with you to see the landscape overlooking Como. Che benissima! Even though it was a bit overcast in the morning, being with you made everything brighter. After stopping for pizza-prosciutto e funghi e un bichierre di vino bianco we continued our journey to Villa Carlotta. Buon Giorno Principessa you said! Carlotta was a princess from Prussia and we walked together through her gardens of flowers, bamboo, and fountains. You told me that if you could you would build me a villa. Villa Jackalina! One sculpture moved me immensely- amore e psiche. Yes, it is true love of the body and mind.  It reminded me of my love for you. Allora, andiamo a Bellagio. We took a night cruise along Lago di Como. Che magnifico! Bellagio was such a small port village but very beautiful. After our meal of eggplant, risotto, panna cotta, e vino we headed back to our hotel in Menaggio. Buona notte amore. A domani- Porto Venere e Regione di Cinque Terre. Baci!

     Porto Venere

    Today was breathtaking. You took me to Porto Venere in the Cinque Terre region. It reminded me of my father’s home town of Polizzi with its beautiful cobblestone walkways between houses. It was quite magical. I took so many pictures today of the port and the family oriented village. Each one is more exquisite than the next. You were so romantic and charming today. I almost cried with joy. I suppose I should be strong since tomorrow we journey to Cinque Terre. It is what I have been anticipating the most.I must get some sleep now. Sweet dreams. A domani my love.

    Cinque Terre

    This morning you took me to Cinque Terre by boat. Although the seas were rough by my standards, being with you at the port was worth it. We visited two towns- Monterosso and Vernazza. Che bellisima! Everything is beautiful here. I only attribute it to my love for you. Monterosso was larger than Vernazza but both were very quaint villages. Ho comprato mia shiarpe prima in Monterosso. It is lilac and will go well with black. I hope to wear it soon.  We took the train from Monterosso to Vernazza and then to La Spezia where we were picked up by coach bus.Tomorrow I meet you in Genoa. Buona notte. I must sleep since I see you early in the morning.

    Genoa

    We arrived in Genoa today. The first signs of a city! It was nice because I bought my first handbag here. Yes, it is lovely I agree. You always give me such beautiful things. At the port, I saw an international wonderland. People from different countries speaking different languages.  It was wonderful! Tomorrow we venture to Milan and I am very excited. I might be able to finally dance with you. I look forward to it. A domani. I must sleep again.

    Milan

    Well, you are quite sophisticated and chic in Milano. Aside from Roma, we were amidst the most international piazza I have ventured to. Do you remember dancing along Corso Como? I had a wonderful time too! We visited the Duomo, the elaborate cemetery, the Castella, La Scala, and the cathedral. All were beautiful of course. I enjoyed window shopping in most areas of San Babila and Lima. I aced the metro. We visited Ticinese with their little canal waterways. I loved being with you in Milano. Arriverderci!

    Venice

    Holy waterways! I caught up with you first in the Jewish ghetto after taking a ferry to Venice. How cool! Our concierge told us how great Venezia is now to raise a family. It amazes me that there are no cars here. Only boats and narrow walkways are the way for transportation. It was so very quiet and peaceful at night since I did not hear any city traffic. Again, you always amaze me and bring peace to my soul. I’ll see you in the morning. Meet me in San Marco Square.

    I saw you immediately after taking my private boat to San Marco Square. I felt like a movie star in the piazza with pigeons at my feet. I visited Doges Palace and saw the works of art and sculptures. We took a walk from San Marco to the Rhialto Bridge and then along to San Leonardo. What a walk! Did you know that our hotel, Residenza Cannaregio, was once a convent? Si, e vero! Our gondola ride was my first along the Grand Canal. It was one of the most romantic moments I’ve shared with you. I loved being with you and sharing my journey once again.

    I am in the states now waiting for my flight in New York City. I’ve left you once again but will return my love to pick up where we left off. Buona Sera and Arriverderci Italia. Ti amo sempre!

     

     

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  • 1 year ago
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• Policia in Roma, near Piazza N

  • From: 512theresa
  • Description:
    My girlfriend and I were walking back to our apt after a long 4 hour dinner at our fave restaurant "IL FICO" in PV...When we were noticed by a group of the local policia...They were going up to a party, we declined, but I couldn't resist a picture with one them in uniform! How hot are those?
  • 1 year ago
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• Tuscan Pizza and Chianti (and

  • From: LTBergren
  • Description:

    Continued from Tuscan Pizza, PART 1...

    Chianti near Chianti...

    Even though it was still raining the following day, Velma--what we dubbed our GPS’s voice--helped us reach the Chianti region, an hour away, and we toured the medieval Castello di Meleto--somewhat decrepit and in need of repair in areas, but a good glimpse at what these hilltop castles look like on the inside--and had a lovely wine tasting while chatting with tourists from So. California and Germany, as well as a U.S. military couple living in Naples. We purchased several bottles and then enjoyed the castle’s pretty gardens, the most romantic part of this location, (http://www.castellomeleto.it/tuscany-castle-siena-farmhouse-chianti.asp), before returning to our side of Tuscany for more grocery shopping and meal preparation—this time a fantastic chicken pasta in red pepper cream sauce—and wine before a crackling fire.

     

    Firenze...

    The next day we arose early and hopped a 7am commuter train in Montevarchi to Florence (a lovely way to enter and exit another big city that is difficult to navigate), and spent the entire day there. We saw Michelangelo’s David in the Academia (highly recommend you purchase tickets for the Academia and Uffizi like this—ticket lines can be murder, especially during high season, and you can circumvent some trauma by going to web site http://www.tickitaly.com/ ), and moved on to climb the winding Duomo (church) stairs for the most magnificent views in Firenze. While we found the churches of Rome and Venice (and elsewhere in Tuscany) more interesting and beautiful on the inside, this is an iconic church with the largest of dome ever built at the time (completed in 1436), and still the largest masonry dome. To be able to get close to her frescoes inside the dome was intriguing—you catch a glimpse of how the artists achieved scale—and then to climb to the top through tight stairways that resemble secret passageways (great for kids!), between the two layers of the dome, was a unique experience. For lunch we ate bad tourist pizza that did not remotely compare to our homemade version at the Odina, and moved on to the Uffizi for a brief Lay-Your-Eyeballs-On-Famous-Paintings tour, then walked Firenze’s streets.

    
    One of Three Memorable Meals We Didn't Cook Ourselves...

    Weary from our day of touring, we moved north to the famous Il Latini trattoria, which I had seen on Rachael Ray’s show and was convinced we had to try (6r Via del Palchetti; Tues-Sun 7:30-10:30, reservations possible by calling +39 55 210 0916, but be prepared to still be patient and wait—they’ll bring you a glass of wine after 7:45). We arrived at 7pm and waited outside with the crowds for it to open, like people at a zoo watching the staff eat family style underneath a hundred prosciutto ham hocks hanging from the ceiling, and probably making fun of the hungry tourists salivating outside. Everyone jockeys to get inside and then are seated family-style—we happily landed at a table for four, but reportedly, part of the fun is joining locals and other tourists at larger tables. Our waiter arrived, pointed to the house Chianti sitting in the center and poured our first glasses, then pointed to the hams, asking if we wanted antipasto. The waiters here are notorious for avoiding menus—the first time we went, we just looked at him, said in sign language and lame Ital-glish phrases that essentially boiled down to “bring us what you think is best, but make sure we get a couple of those steaks,” and then were treated to one of the finest meals of our whole trip—antipasto, house wine, foccacia, house wine, white bean soup, house wine, massive 3” thick bistecca alla fiorentina (split one or two!), house wine, and then cantucci con vin santo—dessert and dessert wine the waiter forced on us (okay, he just gestured toward a tray of golden liquids in dainty glasses and we, unable to stop grinning, just nodded). The maitre d’ came by, measured our bottle of house wine to see how much we had drunk, nodded with admiration, and scribbled out our bill . Once outside, we were glad to be stumbling back to a train vs. a car. We were fairly sober—just still miserably full-- by the time we hit our train stop and made the serpentine climb up the hills to our home away from home. Several antacids later we were blissfully back to sleep in our fine Odina beds. NOTE: We returned here for my 40^th birthday a year later, (yeah, it was THAT good and memorable) and got even more food—next time, I’d just stick to antipasto, white bean soup, bistecca and dessert, despite how your waiter might push—the massive platter of roasted meats is just plain over the top, the house pasta is so-so, and those two additions really jacks up the bill. Trust me, you’ll get enough food! Check out the "bistecca" photo above with my husband's hand--that's just TWO steaks!

     

    Sienese Pasta...

    We slept in a bit the next day, then ventured farther afield, and made the 1.5 mile trip to Siena. It’s a not-to-be-missed medieval city, once a major competitor to Florence in terms of military might. “The Nine” (a governing body of nine elected officials from the most important families) once ruled here—you can see many of their old palazzos, right on Il Campo—a magnificent, shell-shaped piazza—with nine rays that were bricked in c.1430; but there are also vibrant family neighborhoods and lots of soccer going on. We hiked up the campanile for another birds’ eye view a la Firenze--this time of fantastic rolling green Tuscan hills, the old walls of the city and the tight quarters within. In the distance, you could see the zebra stripes of the fabulous city Duomo. We climbed down, toured the old Pubblico museum, gobbled dfown some fabulous pasta around the corner in a small trattoria, then moved on to spend a good amount of time in the ancient church. Most of the inlaid marble floors were uncovered (sometimes, they’re covered for protection) and there are ancient choir books viewable under glass in a side music room. Be sure to spend time checking out the carved pulpit, which took several sculptors years…

     

    A Sword in the Stone...

    Just outside Siena (by about an hour—pretty drive) is San Galgano, which features the roofless ruins of a 14^th century Cistercian abbey and they say has a buried sword in a stone (that part of it was closed when we were there, but check it out on YouTube; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-gioJ2scFDM ). The legend (which might have served as inspiration for Arthurian legend) is that St. Galgano, a crusader knight, came home from afar and promised to serve his God, and never to fight again—and then immediately sank his sword in the stone as a promise. It was San Galgano that supplied Siena with her clergy, and there was a large scriptorium here, where they laboriously created treasured copies of the Bible by hand. Even though we couldn’t see the sword in the stone (one of the hazards of traveling off-season), wandering the ghostly, quiet ruins and envisioning this elegant beauty in her heyday made San Galgano a worthwhile stop...and hungry for dinner at the Odina.
    

     

    Tuscan Castle Ruins Hike...

    The last day, we awakened to a bright, crisp morning, with sun streaming through our windows. Following the advice of our innkeeper, and the few-and-far-between small arrows nailed to trees, we hiked to the castle ruins above us, along narrow and winding forest trails that boar hunting truffles might favor, past small homes, circumventing olive groves…until it opened up and we could see the wide, verdant expanse of the valley below us, the rolling and heavily forested Chianti hills on the far side. You could almost see all the way to Siena. We could envision this castle lord surveying the acres below, watching the fog roll in and sock in the valley floor, then dissipate and perhaps reveal a troop of soldiers on horseback. Now there is little but rotting timbers and a few stone walls left, but it’s a trip back in time to visit—as well as a lovely view.

    We packed up our things and regretfully departed the Odina and Toscana. Only the leftover pizza for our lunch en route to Venice made us feel better about leaving!

     

    **CAR RENTALTIPS:

    • Renting a car out of Rome? Get a cab to the airport and rent from there—trust me, it’s MUCH less stressful than dealing with Rome’s confusing and congested roads!
    • People honk at you on the freeway if you’re going too slow, even if you’re in the slow lane. Ignore them. There are several speed-trap cameras between Rome and Tuscany, and arriving home to a ticket will be a bummer.
    • You can rent a car with GPS, but you might want to bring your own from home, already loaded with the Italian software and your principal locations. You’ll know how to use it from the get-go, and you’re certain to avoid time-consuming detours, which might save some trauma (although getting lost can be part of the fun—depends on your personalities). Just stow it away or carry it with you so it doesn’t get swiped. (Also stow away maps and other tourist paraphernalia that make your rental more of a target to thieves.)
    • If you’re driving like we were, only between Rome and Venice, know that dropping your rental car in Piazzale Roma (Venice) can be confusing; don’t park in the parking garage; park outside on the congested street, where it feels totally wrong, until you hear from the rental car guy where he wants the vehicle.
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  • 1 year ago
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• Venice: Part 3 (A Girlfriend's

  • From: LTBergren
  • Description:

    CONTINUED FROM VENICE, PART 2...

     

    
    BUT SOMETIMES IT'S GOOD TO BE FASHIONABLY LATE...

    
    

    Arrive late to go up the campanile (the bell tower in St. Mark's Square), so you can see Venezia at sunset. It is incredibly beautiful and will help you get your bearings because you can see how the neighborhoods are laid out. The Rialto really does look like a big fish, sitting on a Giudecca platter.
    
    Take a breath and absorb what architecture you’re seeing. A good guide book will help you differentiate between Baroque and Byzantine, as well as identify the various palazzos along the Grand Canal as you cruise by.
    
    As I said earlier, Venezia was THE maritime power for many centuries, the hired sea-faring thugs for queens and kings and emperors and crusaders. Wander down to the Arsenale and peer into the vast boatyard from the bridge (inaccessible beyond that, as I understand it), and imagine ancient Venetians  building and outfitting a battle-ready galleon in one or two days—reportedly, something they did to show off for visiting dignitaries.
    
    WHAT'S THAT? YOU WANNA EAT SOMETHING??
    

    After all that walking, you’ll be HUNGRY. You can get pizza or Panini-to-go for a pretty good deal (keep in mind that Euro/USD exchange makes everything costly), then find a piazza/corner to sit down and enjoy your lunch. If you sit down inside the little restaurants, it will cost you more. Also, you might want to take dinner back to your room one or two nights if you’re trying to save some Euros and have someplace suitable to picnic. Walk the canalazzos (streets that line the canals), but try and find trattorias one or two streets back from the canal (in particular, the Grand Canal) to eat; you’ll save 10-25%. The farther you get from San Marco or the Rialto Bridge, the better the food….and the more you save!
                --The Castello district/Via Giuseppe Garibaldi has a couple of grocery stores too, or there’s a Co-Op near the end of the Grand Canal (near the Piazzale Roma stop). Bring a small, rolling suitcase or backpack so you can get your provisions back to your room without killing yourself
                --Floating fruit/veggie barge vendor in San Barnaba is interesting for a stop; be aware they do not like you touching the produce. You touch, you buy. Just take your chances on what looks best and don’t expect California-fresh. All produce is imported, for obvious reasons.
                --Even if you doubt you’ll be cooking your own fish dinner, cruise through the Rialto Fish Market, on most mornings, it will give you a visual for what all those fishermen are angling for each morning
                --We ate at the lovely Osteria Antico Giardinetto, a trattoria in the San Croce district. Wonderful, fresh food in an intimate atmosphere—and they had a tourist special that offered four courses. Usually, I like to avoid the tourist menu and dive into local fare, but this was hard to beat with gourmet presentation and tasty offerings. Take the San Stae vaporetto stop and make your way to Campo San Cassiano in the San Palo district. You’ll see two bridges—take the one to the right. Once you cross the bridge, the restaurant is at the end of the street on the left side.
                --If you really like fish and are not averse to fishy fish like sardines (I myself am a halibut and salmon kind of girl), you might try the Venetian version of tapas—small, finger-food hors d’oeuvres you purchase one by one and eat standing up beside tiny bars and swallow down with small glasses of wine. I wanted to try them, but I couldn’t get past the sardines.
                --Lots of trattorias open early to cater to the tourists—it’s an option if you want to beat some of the crowds and be free to roam the city at night—or if jet lag is getting the best of you
                --If there’s a popular restaurant you want to try, get a reservation a few days ahead; there’s only so much competition in a city this small and word spreads fast!
                --Harry’s Bar is on the Grand Canal near the San Marco Vallaresso stop, almost directly across from the Customs House—the point that marks the entrance to the Grand Canal. Pause for a famous Bellini (sparkling peach drink that isn’t my favorite, but you have to try one; maybe it’d taste better in the heat of summer) and share a plate of Carpaccio—thinly sliced beef with a light dusting of mayonnaise and lemon, created for a countess on a special diet. All the rich and famous traipse through here, from Hemingway to Helen Hunt, and the menu prices reflect that; I’d find an alternate location for dinner.
    
    FULL STOMACH, HUNGRY SOUL...
    
    The lesser known, less touristed churches are beautiful and offer a reprieve from the heat. My favorites: the 17^th century San Pantalon, with its spectacular ceiling painted by Fumiani; Santa Maria della Salute, a church you’ll see time and again in films that feature Venice, and was built as thanksgiving to God for delivering the city’s people of the Black Plague of 1630; Santa Maria Gliriosa dei Frari, first built in 1250, rebuilt in the 15th century—and sporting great Venetian art and tombs, including a funky classical pyramid for the artist, Titian.
                --Remember, you can’t enter most churches with bare shoulders or shorts. A good walking skirt or capris, plus a long-sleeved shirt worn tied around the waist (and pulled on at the church entrance) would work.
    
    A GIRL NEEDS TO SHOP...
    
    SHOPPING: I like the Accademia district for jewelry, glass and art. I think because the museum is here, it attracts the more artsy, upscale crowd. This is where I found my art glass for less than in the Rialto or on the island of Murano. Shopkeepers can UPS it home to you—or wrap it in bubble-wrap and and a box if you want to hand-carry it back. A fantastic necklace, a beautiful bowl or tray—very fun souvenirs and killer gifts to stow away for next Christmas. But I bought small lithographs from a street vendor at night beside the Bridge of Sighs—a wonderful memory in itself.
    
    STOP AND LISTEN TO THE MUSIC! YOU'RE ON VACATION!
    
    MUSIC: This Vivaldi’s city (he was born and worked here in the 18^th century). Purchase tickets for an evening concert (opera concerto—they sell tickets outside the Scuola Grande di San Teodoro and elsewhere) and sit 2/3 of the way back so you don’t have to see the musicians sweat in their period costumes—you can simply enjoy the magic and music. I swear if you close your eyes, you can imagine yourself a couple centuries back in time. At the concert we went to, the musicians were all females except for one prize male. There were some interesting dynamics transpiring between them all, delicious undercurrents of pride and irritation and teasing and laughter, and I was writing a whole novel in my head even as the “Four Seasons” filled the grand room.
    
    While we’re on the subject of music, if you choose to sit in one of the outdoor bars on St. Mark’s Square, there will be a surcharge for the music. I think it’s better to wander by and enjoy them all from afar.
    
    MISC ADVICE...
    
    Don’t feed the pigeons or let them land on you. As a nurse, you know this isn’t cute and entertaining. It’s disgusting. Birds that make their nexts out of their own poop? Ugh. But watching others do it in front of San Marco is oddly fascinating.
    
    Yes, you have to do a gondola ride. It’s like going to the pyramids and not getting on a camel. You simply must embrace it. And it’s a dying art—fewer and fewer master gondoliers; one one boatyard left in the city (and our gondolier said that boatswain is reported to be the son of the last master—and not as good in craftsmanship). Totally touristy, but worth the cost for the experience, to know you’ve “done the real one” every time you see that cheesy Vegas gondola ride advertising on TV. It’ll be about 100-120 Euros for about a 45 minute ride. Take a bottle of wine and paper cups (yes, it’s allowed, but ask the gondolier before you board) and oolala…I wanna go back!

     

    SEE VENICE, A GIRLFRIEND’S GUIDE, PART 4 FOR DETAILS ON THE OUTER ISLANDS & THE END OF THIS REPORT…

     

  • Blog post
  • 1 year ago
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• Venice: Part 2 (A Girlfriend's

  • From: LTBergren
  • Description:

    CONTINUED FROM VENICE, PART 1…

    
    NAVIGATING THE CITY...
    
    Remember that map I made you purchase? You'll be glad for it, but it's mostly good for vaporetti routes, BIG streets, bridges and landmarks. The streets are nearly impossible to navigate via map--too many twists and turns and intersections by canal or bridge (and some have two names!). Signs are few and far between, anyway. So if you know your general direction, and check a couple of times on your compass or map to see you're generally heading in the right direction, you'll be more free to follow the flow of traffic and enjoy the city. It's an island; you can't get too lost. And you'll feel more like a Venetian, strolling along!
    
    VAPARETTO (WATER BUS) DETAILS...

    Buy a Venice Card with your vaporetti pass (at the Piazzala Roma or Rialto station, or better yet, online before you go at http://www.hellovenezia.com .) When I arrived to buy 72 hour passes for seven of us, I had to have a heap of Euros--almost every one we had--because they don't take credit cards. Buy it before you go online! Vaporetti TIPS:

                --TIP #1: Watch what direction that vaporetto is going out of the stop ahead; it will tell you which floating "terminal" you want. There are usually two landing stages/terminals--one for each direction on the route.
                --TIP #2: Keep your vaporetto pass in a neck wallet with your passport. If you lose it, you have to purchase a new one--no recourse.
                --TIP #3: You must validate your ticket with a date stamp by sticking it into a brightly colored machine, about shoulder high, on most docks. Big fines if you're caught without it. And when we last went, it was teeny-tiny--very easy to lose. We had to buy a replacement when my daughter's flitted away in the wind.
                --TIP #4: There is a board/sign at the front of each boat that gives you the route/line number and the stops so you can keep track of where you are, just like a bus or metro. Don't get caught in the back of a crowded vaporetto; if your stop is coming up, move toward the open, standing area so you can readily exit.
    
    You can get from the airport to the Rialto via the vaporetto system (although the Venice Card and pass doesn't cover this portion; extra fee). Or you can walk down to the airport docks (about the equivalent of five blocks) and take a water taxi for 90 Euros (2007 rate). This is an other-worldly and convenient way to enter the city, and they can bring you to a stop close to your hotel or apartment--especially wonderful when towing luggage.
    
    Sigh! You've arrived and can move around!
    
    NOW...ON WHAT TO DO:

     The Venice Card will gain you free or less expensive access to the vaporetti, museums and public toilets. You can choose the culture version if you want to enter lots of places for less/free, or the transportation version if you're mostly interested in just walking around, absorbing the city from the outside. The culture version lets you enter lots of places for less/free, one of which is the delightful Ca’ Rezzonico on the Grand Canal; go check it out because it will give you a sense of what it might be like to live in one of these grand palaces on the water. Be sure to go all the way to the top piano (floor) and look out the windows. Many of Venice's old guard/money live on the top pianos of the old palazzos and rent out the rest.
    
    Take time to visit a couple of the scuola buildings--they have amazing art and big cavernous rooms that might give you a reprieve from the heat (and they draw far fewer tourists). For centuries all workmen in all trades were associated with these guilds--sort of fraternities or unions. Some were charitable institutions. To see their meeting places helps you understand some of Venezia's deep history and view some amazing artists you might never have heard of. I particularly liked Scuola Grade di San Rocco, and Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni. These grand old meeting halls often have big mirrors you can hold and see the amazing paintings on the ceilings--without having to look up the Italian word for "chiropractor" later.
    
    THE EARLY BIRD GETS THE YOU-KNOW-WHAT:

    Arrive early (or get in line before they open) to experience the Big 3: Shop on the Rialto Bridge, see the Doge's Palace (Palazzo Ducale), and tour St. Mark's (San Marco) Basilica.
                --The RIALTO BRIDGE and immediate vicinity offers some of the best glass shopping anywhere--but be aware that you can probably find the same pieces in other parts of the city for less. It's also great to people watch--Venetians and tourists intermingling in the boats below.
                --SAN MARCO: Wander the basilica, slowly, looking up and down. Pay the extra few Euros to go upstairs and go everywhere they allow--it'll take another hour--but you can see the original bronze horses sacked from Constantinople (reproductions outside); the mosaic ceiling up close (giving you a better idea of the massive amount of work involved); relics from the first church that stood her, and much more in the recesses and quiet corners. There are pieces here that are more than seven hundred years old. This is an OLD city--part of knowing her is to take the time to digest that fact, and seeing some of these artifacts helped me.
                --PALAZZO DUCALE: The doge was the duke of Venice, the big man, the head cheese, and Venice was once a huge, international maritime power. My favorite parts of his palace are the Sala dello Scudo, with walls covered with maps of the world and two giant 18th century globes in the center; the Sala del Maggior Consiglio, a massive meeting hall for the Great Council that will take your breath away; and the Bridge of Sighs that leads down into the dungeon where Casanova (and many others) were held—look for the graffiti displays.
    

     

    SEE VENICE, A GIRLFRIEND’S GUIDE, PART 3 FOR MORE DETAILS…

     

  • Blog post
  • 1 year ago
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• Rediscovering Rome

  • From: antfern
  • Description:

    Rome, September 12-18, 2008

    After four earlier trips to Rome, we decided to use the opportunity of a Mediterranean cruise that departed and returned from and to Civitavecchia, to stay in Rome after the cruise for about six days.  For the purpose of this journal, we will arrange our experiences around five topics: Churches, Plazas, Fountains, Ruins, Outside Rome.  At the end of this writing I will offer you some points about lodging, transportation and security.

    Churches:  Don’t miss St. Peter Basilica in the Vatican City.  As you walk through Bernini’s colonnade you will be leaving Italy and entering in another country: The Vatican.  Normally everyone enters the great basilica and takes a couple of pictures in the Plaza.  However, I would recommend two other things to do here: 1. Climb the 320 steps to the top of the cupola for the best views of the Gardens of the Vatican and the whole city of Rome.  Once you reach the top you are in the highest point of the city. 2. You may visit the Scavii (Excavations under the main altar of St. Peter).  This will require that you made a reservation; it can be done by e-mail.  St. Peter’s Basilica web site offers information about these two areas as well as other points of interest in St. Peter: http://saintpeterbasilica.org

    The list of churches in Rome could be like a telephone directory of a small city.  It is impossible to mention all of them here.  Keep in mind that there is a dress code requirement for entering them and you must preclude from taking pictures while a religious ceremony is taking place.  Also they are quite dark and provide you a cool refuge from the Roman heat as well as a place to sit down and relax for a while.  Catholics have a saying that whenever you enter a church for the first time and you do a prayer you can ask for a favor….Your wish list in Rome could be quite lengthy. 

    Plazas: Rome give the impression of grow and live around plazas.  As you walk around you will not be able to avoid them: regular shaped or without any designs, small or big, old or new, crowded or strangely deserted.  The list here, like the churches, is large.  Almost every church has a plaza in front, or around it somewhere.  I would mention only about a dozen of them: Piazza de Spagna, San Pietro, Venezia, Navona, del Popolo, della Boca della Verita, del Quirinale, della Repubblica, di Santa Maria in Trastevere, del Campidoglio, dell’Esquilino, and Campo de Fiore.

    In the plazas you could find a place to eat or drink a cappuccino.  I would recommend to look for a gelateria (ice cream shop) mainly in Piazza Navona.  Also most of the plazas aside from one or more churches you will find also one or more fountains.  To sit around a fountain is one of the Romans preferred outings in the middle of the afternoon or early evenings.  Don’t forget the saying: “If in Rome do like the Romans”   

    Fountains: The fountains of Rome have been the subject of classical musical pieces or well known-movies.  Many of the fountains you will find in Rome were like public works constructed by the Popes for the benefit of the various sectors of the city. Likewise the list of plazas, I will offer only the names of few fountains that should be in any visitors' lists:  Starting, probably with the most worldwide famous fountain: The Fontana de Trevi.  This fountain together with the Triton Fountain in Barberini Square are the subject of two of the symphonic poems of Respighi, Fontane di Rome.

    We should mention also the three fountains in Piazza Navona: Four Rivers, the Moor and Neptune. There are beautiful and worth mentioning fountains in Piazza del Popolo and Nicosia.  There are numerous fountains in many of the plazas that are worth the visit and to enjoy their cool environment.

    One of my favorites is the small fountain at Santa Maria Cosmedin in the Forum Boarium, see picture of the fountain as well as the Temple of Hercules in the back.

    Ruins and Monuments:  Aside from churches, plazas and fountains the other ever present element of Rome are its ruins and classical monuments.  From the countless Egyptian obelysks to the classic roman buildings and monuments, your selection is overwhelming. They are everywhere!  The most famous probably is the Colisseum, followed by the Roman Forum.  I would recommend that you buy a combined ticket of admission covering these two points of interest plus the Palatine.  The Palatine is a place that most turists pass or simple ignore. 

    I strongly recommend that your itinerary includes these three attractions.  This time we tried to visit the Domus Aurea, the old ruins of Nero's palace next to the Colisseum, but unfortunately it was was closed that day.  Also among the recommended ruins you should visit are the Forum Imperiali and the Forum Boarium.  There is a beautiful old Roman monument well preserved in a modern museum: Ara Pacis Augustana.  Is an altar built by the Senate and People of Rome (SPQR) to conmemorate the peaceful era of Emperor Cesar Augusto.

    Outside Rome: Rome is a place that must be visited by everyone… but also visitors of Rome should adventure outside the City and go to places such as Tivoli, Amalfi Coast, or even Florence and Assissi.  

    The pictured attached is from Positano, the jewel of the Costiera Amalfitana.  To drive the Amalfi Coast that runs south of Sorrento, until the area around Salerno, will take a full day.  But it may be shortened by returning a short while after visiting Amalfi turning toward Naples through the interior highway and thus avoiding the slow traffic of the coastal winding road.

    ---

     Practical Guidelines: 

     Let me end with some general guidelines: During this last trip we avoided the museums due to the long lines and by the fact that we have visited the major ones during earlier visits.  However, the Vatican Museums should be a priority for everyone visiting Rome.  

    Lodging: In our first visit to Rome in 1975, we stayed at D’Inghilterra, great location but we couldn’t afford it now.  We have stayed in far out places and in the middle of the city.  During our last trip we stayed at the Alimandi Tunisi about two blocks from the Vatican Museums.  This was a great experience and we highly recommend it.  However, the most important thing we would recommend about a hotel or pension in Rome is to find one that is close to a Metro station, this will provide you with the necessary mobility in this magnificent city. 

    Transportation: As we were planning to stay for six days we purchased at the Metro station a Carta Integrata Settimanale for Euro 16.  This allowed us free access to the Metro and all city trams and buses for our complete stay.  One of our best purchases ever!  We recommend that you obtain this pass as well as a Roma Metro-Bus map for Euro 6, in any newsstand as a companion guide to the pass.  That’s all you need to move around besides your own two feet wearing the most comfortable shoes you may have.  Try to stay away from flip flops or high heels.  The streets and pavement in Rome are quite uneven without considering the ancient cobbled streets and water running from a myriad of fountains around the city.

    Security: In Rome, like any other large city, you may run the risk of being pick pocked if the basic security steps are not observed.  Never carry valuables in your back pockets, carry your bags closely held next to your body, leave what you don’t need in a safe deposit in your hotel, carry copies of your passport, never put a bag in the floor or in an empty chair while you dine (regardless of the type of restaurant).  Avoid strangers that approach you with a map or a book or any article trying to show or ask you something.  Stay always alert.  We never have had a problem in Rome regarding our security!

    Accept the fact that you are going to be surrounded by hundred of thousand people living and visiting Rome at the same time that you are there.  If you don’t like people in your pictures of buildings, plazas, parks, etc. you need patience and creativeness.

    Enjoy the food and don't be afraid to drink water from any of the running fountains in Rome.  The water is fresh and safe, unless there is a post indicating that it is not good for drinking.

    Also, be prepared for the fact that Rome is not a  cheap place to visit.

    ---

    Each of the pictures appearing on this journal is individually explained in detail under the "My Photos" section. As an alternative you may click the photos appearing here for expanded information.

     

     

     

  • Blog post
  • 1 year ago
  • Views: 880

• Spanish Steps

  • From: antfern
  • Description:
    The Spanish Steps or "Scalinata della Trinita dei Monti" links the church Trinita dei Monti with the Piazza di Spagna below. It is a magnificent stair built in the 17th century combining straight sections, curves and terraces. This one of the most visited and photographed landmark in Rome. While in Rome a visitor can enjoy numerous classical ruins and buildings, the largest concentration of churches in the world, famous work of arts that span the history of mankind... however, a visit to the Spanish Steps will provide the opportunity of meet people from all over the world or just sit down in one of the steps and watch the passers-by. On top of the stairs you can see the well recognized facade of the church Trinita dei Monti. While you are looking around you may find evidence of previous famous visitors to this area: Keats, Shelley, Lord Byron, Dickens, Sienkiewicz...
  • 1 year ago
  • Views: 570

• Italy October 2007 part 2 - Ve

  • From: bouldergal
  • Description:

    StartFragment

    Oct 4 – Departure: We were all taken aside for secondary security screening because we ostensibly had one way tickets (they were actually open-jaw, outbound Denver-Atlanta-Venice and inbound Florence-Newark-Denver) and because we had not directly paid for the tickets ourselves.

    Oct 5 –Long line at Immigration because nearly everyone on the flight was a non-EU citizen.  Finally some of us went through the EU-only line without being hassled for it.  A compelling reason to try this is the long line for the small ladies room in the luggage area! 

    The first job was to call the hostel.  We had booked at the Foresteria Venezia Valdese (Methodist) guesthouse because of its low rate, kitchenette, and central location.  The drawback was that the office closes for check-in between 1 and 6 pm everyday, but they had said we could phone from the airport to see if we could at least drop off our luggage during that time.  The tourist information desk would not place the call for us.  We had an MCI phone card that was supposed to work in Italy, but it was very difficult to figure out what number to call, and the international operator said we didn’t have the right PIN.  We then tried giving him a couple of regular credit card numbers, but he could not accept those either.  Finally obtained enough euro coins to get the job done.  (In subsequent days, we had similar problems with dialing the correct access numbers.)  

    For our group of eight we had booked a water taxi for 130 euros plus 10% tip.  It’s a long walk to the water transfer station to meet our low-slung water taxi speedboat, for a fast and refreshing ride to a point fairly close to the guesthouse.  We got yelled at (rightly) for stepping on the leather seats for a better view.  The walk from the drop off point to the guesthouse was not too long, but it did take us over several stepped footbridges, which was a pain when doing it with luggage. 

    We took turns watching the bags while exploring the neighborhood.  We talked to the friendly owner of a mask-making shop on the other corner.  After being able to leave the bags at the guesthouse we walked to the nearby Campo Santa Maria Formosa for some not-bad pizza, panini, and hot dogs, then a few blocks to the Rick Steves recommended Boutique del Gelato, 2 blocks off Campo Sta. Maria Formosa at 5727 Salizada San Leo and Calle Paradiso, next to Hotel Bruno.  Then we set off for the Fondamente Nove to catch a vaporetto to Murano.  The glass shops and furnaces on Murano were dazzling.  You can spend quite literally any amount of money there you wish, although for the lower end items you can actually find the same things for less in the center of Venice and in the Rialto market. 

    Then back to a longish walk down the Fondamente Nove to a grocery store that was pointed out to us, to supply our dinner.  Saw a small sleepy puppy in one of the grocery carts in line at the checkout.

    With some caveats, I do recommend the Foresteria Venezia Valdese guesthouse.  A normal double room with bath was 70; the kitchenette room was 92, and we were a close walk to Saint Mark’s (and, for when you get lost, the building it occupies, Palazzo Cavagni, is marked on some maps).  It’s very clean.  Because of recent additions, some rooms are new but tiny while others are old but spacious.  Some are on the quiet side of the building with only a view of another brick wall; some are on the street/canal side with its attendant noise.  The kitchenette room is at the very top of the stairs.  There were mosquitoes.  They have rules against eating in the normal bedrooms and against alcohol anywhere in the building.  There was an internet station but it was not connected and there is no wireless for your laptop.  There is no elevator.  Breakfast consisted of cereal, yogurts, juice, coffee, rolls, jams.  There is also a dormitory hostel section, full of young people.  The staff is efficient if not particularly helpful.  You are given a key that lets you in and out of the building 24/7.

    It was cool and foggy that evening in Saint Mark’s but the bands were playing (“What a Wonderful World”, theme song from Titanic, “Chattanooga Choo Choo” then finally some Puccini) and we enjoyed spending 30 euros on a gelato, a glass of Prosecco, and a shot of Tanqueray, then walking around the square and looking at more glass shops (many of which were still open) and stumbling upon the gondola parking lot at the Fondamenta Orseolo.   

    Outside of the really expensive stores like Chanel and Pucci, African immigrant street vendors sell inexpensive knockoffs of the same designer handbags.  (One website says it’s illegal to sell or even buy these items.)  Of course we got a bit lost returning the guesthouse, but there was plenty to look at on the way home. 

    Saturday, Oct 6:  Walked to the Rialto Bridge and over to the market area.  Keeping to the quayside, walking up-canal from the Rialto, first there’s a dry goods section, then  a produce section, then the fish market.  Very interesting and enjoyable.  The fish market was especially intriguing, not least because it didn’t smell fishy!   Enjoyed watching a painter getting the scene down on canvas.  Many of the Venetian ladies were very elegantly dressed for this kind of errand. 

    Then we took a vaporetto to the Salizada San Stae to find the Morandin puzzle shop at number 1921 (tel. 347-2482637), a block or so before it crosses Calle de Tintor, which I’d read about online.  It’s difficult to describe in words what’s so special about his handmade puzzles, but they are works of art in wood and inlay.  They are dimensional in that you can push parts of them out while they still hold together, even hanging them on a wall this way.  There are puzzles suitable for people of all ages, including a charming one of “The Little Prince.”  Mr. Morandin makes these puzzles on site, after his first career as an economist.  Then down the street to visit the Frari and the Scuola San Rocco, both of which are as spectacular as the books describe. 

    The Campo Santa Margherita in Dorsudoru was next, but it was not “bustling”, as described in the books.  We had a warming cup of coffee while waiting out a heavy but brief rainstorm.  We then wandered toward Campo San Trovaso and managed to find the “squero” or gondola workshop, but no one was there working.  After a walk along the Fondamenta Zattere we were feeling the cold and damp and returned to the guesthouse.  After another dinner in the kitchenette we vaporetto’d up the Grand Canal to scout out the Avis office at Piazzale Roma, and to enjoy the night time tour of the Grand Canal.  On the return trip to St Mark’s, the boat was extremely crowded.  

    Sunday, Oct 7:  Fortunately (since we didn’t have reservations) we got to the Doge’s Palace when it opened at 9 am, and were able to walk right into the ticket office.  When we emerged almost two hours later, the line stretched for blocks.  This place is absolutely an essential stop. 

    On this, our first beautifully sunny day, the group decided to go to Burano for lunch and shopping.  The trip took forever (an hour  or so each way) and the boats were very crowded with both tourists and Italians.  Most of us had to stand the whole way.  The “Black Cat” restaurant had been recommended to us, but it was fully booked up by the time we got there.  The waiter recommended another fish restaurant a few blocks.  There were lots of stores open with beautiful lace items.  Toward the back of some of the stores were older ladies actually making it. 

    Back in Venice we headed to St Mark’s Basilica.  On Sundays the church is only open to tour from 2-4 pm, but anyone can attend the 5:30 pm vespers service (enter at the small door on the north side of the building).  It was longer (about an hour) and more elaborate than the same service at, for example, Westminster Abbey, but the beauty of the church (which felt surprisingly smaller than I expected) and of the voices and the music was breathtaking.  (And how nice to be able to take it all in while sitting, without coping with crowds, and for free!)  Although the service failed to revive any religious feeling in me, this experience was the highlight of my visit to The Serene Republic.   After a snack several of us went for a last walk to St Mark’s and along the waterfront there to gawk at the spectacular lobby of the Hotel Danieli.

    Monday, Oct 8:  We had tried to phone the water taxi company the evening before to pre-book to take us and all of our luggage to Piazzale Roma, but I was told this is not possible (and when I called, the man who answered the phone would/could not speak English—maybe there would have been an English speaker if I’d called on a weekday??).  Someone in the group had seen a water taxi stand at the Piazza San Giovanni e Paulo, so we decided to walk there, which only required going over one bridge.  There we got a taxi for 75 euros to PR. 

    The Avis office was a pretty inefficient and unhelpful operation. They had run out of road maps and GPS units.  They told us nothing about the cars, including what kind of fuel they took or how to handle a stall (there was a pushbutton!).  We had to ask about marking pre-existing nicks and scars on the form.  We finally jumped in the car to head for the Dolomites.  

    Because of time constraints, weather, group dynamics, money anxieties, or my husband’s physical limitations, I didn’t get to do the following in Venice:  go to the top of the Campanile or San Giorgio Maggiore for views; tour the Fenice opera house; try cichetti in Dorsodoru or a Bellini at Harry’s Bar; or take an evening gondola ride.  Oh well, maybe there will be a next time.  

    EndFragment

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