Taken outside the walls of Volterra, Italy by Brad Burton
Bell tower in Volterra in the Tuscany region of Italy.
We are still finding it hard to even talk to our friends of how beautiful and breathtaking the Tuscany region of Italy is. Our trip was perfect with a mix of blending with the locals and doing the tourist spots. We did not plan to have fancy but agreed we would splurge on Italian food!
We picked the city of Lucca, for no particular reason, to stay 6 nights. Stayed at Al Tuscany and would highly reccomend. Great, helpful hostess. Quiet ,but right next to the main street, Via Roma. Lucca was our favorite city and we went to a lot of cities. Planned day trips from Lucca. Must see's if you only have 7 days here: Cinque Terre (hike the cities), Borga and Florence. Rent bicycles in Lucca and ride the ramparts and the entire city.
We rented a car and spent our last 7 nights near the city of Scorfinio. On the drive, the city of Volterra is not to be missed. We stayed in an agriturismo (rented room in a farmhome) outside in the rural country of Scorfinio. Absolutely stay an agriturismo. Ours was perfect at Agriturismo Casa Elisa, which is a working goat farm. Rented room with kitchen and all. Perfect. Montelpulciano and Siena you have to see and our favorite was Pienza. Tour the palace in Pienza, walk every nook.
Here are a few memories that will never fade and could even be helpful to you! It is important to drive like an Italian. Fast, quick and without hesitation and you will be fine. I learned to love to drive in Italy. Eat pecorino cheese, prosiuitto, pasta and lots of excellent house wine (always order house wine, forgot buying a bottle!). buy grocieries in an Supermercato. Order the fruit, meat and vegetable of the season. Touch the Mediterranean Sea and learn a few common italian words and use them when ever you can. Savor every single second because it is one of the most amazing journies you will go on. It is worth every penny.
Sunset, Volterra Italy
Sunset, Volterra Italy
Clock tower and plaza, made famous by New Moon, Volterra Italy
Roman theater ruins, Volterra Italy
Quiet street in Volterra, Italy
To celebrate the twentieth anniversary of our first date, my husband and I took a trip we'd long talked about but never gotten around to planning - a journey to Italy. It was difficult deciding which areas of Italy to see, but we finally chose the Cinque Terre, Tuscany, and Rome. To say our trip surpassed my wildest dreams would be an understatement. Welcome to our Italian adventure!
After flying into Milan, it took several trains to reach the Cinque Terre (which means Five Lands), but it was completely worth venturing off the beaten path to visit this quaint, charming, and friendly coastal area of Italy. The Cinque Terre consists of five small hillside towns that each looks like it's literally spilling into the ocean. The towns have all been in existence since Medieval times and have the ancient lookout towers and historic stone churches to prove it. The shops are quaint, the people are friendly, and the views are breathtaking. We especially enjoyed just roaming the streets, as well as the twisting stairs and alleyways (which also qualify as streets in a place as old as the towns of the Cinque Terre,) taking pictures of lovely archways and windows, and watching the locals hanging their laundry out as they conversed from window to window.
Getting Around the Cinque Terre
Don't expect taxis here, and whatever you do, don't plan on renting a car. In the Cinque Terre, there are three options: trains, hiking, and boats (although boats may not be available year round.) Oceanside trails passing through olive groves and terraced vineyards connect the five towns of Monterossa, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and are a lovely way to travel - but be warned, the trails get progressively more difficult the farther north you go. So, based on your hiking ability, we advise hiking between the more southern towns and taking the train between the northern towns. We used the low-priced Cinque Terre Treno Card, which admits you to both the trails and the trains. And we sometimes found the train schedules difficult to follow in the Cinque Terre, so when arriving at the station, we advise asking a clerk when the next train to your destination is due. Overall, the trains are a pretty easy way to hop between the towns if you choose not to hike or tire of it.
Where To Stay in the Cinque Terre 
We chose to make the town of Manarola our home base. It's the least touristy of the towns and we found our hotel, the Ca' d'Andrean simple but perfect for our stay. It's a steep walk up the hill with luggage, but worth it for the view of lemon trees and terraced hillside gardens out our shuttered window each morning. The staff here was especially helpful in mapping out future parts of our trip. For nice, clean accommodations, we highly recommend the Hotel Ca' d'Andrean.
While Manarola was our favorite, when we visit the Cinque Terre again, we will gladly consider staying in any of the other towns.
Highlights of our Time in the Cinque Terre
We found something truly unique and delightful at every turn in the Cinque Terre, so it's hard to narrow it down, but here are a few faves:
Cinque Terre Fun Facts
Finding Romance in the Cinque Terre
Romance was pretty much everywhere here, but here are a few tips for romantic moments with your significant other:
If you want to stop and smell the roses - or the sweet scents of lemon trees and lavender in the air - schedule some time for the Cinque Terre in your trip to Italy. We spent only two and a half days there and wished we'd had more time to simply soak up the slow-paced seaside charm of this traditional slice of Italy. Italian charm at its best.
Under the Tuscan Sun
From the Cinque Terre, we took the train to LaSpezia, where we rented a car. Warning: Driving a car in any sizable Italian city is a challenge when you can't read the signs and don't know the general rules and customs of the road. But once you get out of the city into more rural areas, driving is fine.
Our plan to drive through Tuscany, hitting as many hill towns as possible along the way, worked out well. We spent two days meandering the twisting roads across rolling gold and green hills, stopping to soak up Medieval history along the way. It was amazing to be driving along and suddenly see an ancient fortified city appear in the distance.
Where to Stay in Tuscany
We made our home base at the Castel Bigossi, a lovely thousand-year-old castle in the heart of Tuscany near the fort town of Monteriggioni. It was off the beaten path, but we enjoyed the drive through the countryside, dotted with still more historic towns, each time we returned there. The exterior and grounds of the Castel Bigossi were lovely - the perfect Tuscan postcard - and the staff was friendly, talkative, and helpful. The interior was an unusual mix of modernity (spiral staircases and an elevator) and history (ancient wood beams on the ceiling of our bedroom) and all the rooms in the castel are spacious suites - more room than we needed, but we didn't mind. This would be a great place to stay for a longer visit than the two nights we spent there.
Other thoughts on accommodations: Tuscany also boasts many agriturismos - these are working farms that also provide bed-and-breakfast type accommodations. And if you're more of a city person, all the hill towns offer rooms, as well.
Getting Around Tuscany by Car
Like I said above, once you're away from traffic, driving is a breeze, but be warned: Italian street signs and American street signs differ greatly. In Italy, roads are not marked with any sort of name or number, so it's hard to tell where you are most of the time, even when following a map. You are instead guided by arrows that point the way to the nearest town in any direction, and these tend to appear in groups at the frequent roundabouts.
Also, be prepared for crazy drivers who will merrily pass on blind curves and motorcycle riders who consider it perfectly acceptable to pass between two cars without a lane. Our advice: Drive safely and normally, but be on guard.
The Tuscan landscape is dotted with lots of Medieval hill towns, each with its own personality. Meandering through these places was fascinating not only because we were walking streets and seeing buildings that have been there for nearly a thousand years, but also because these are all still thriving communities where people live and work. Wandering the stone streets and piazzas, I expected to see knights in shining armor come riding up on horseback any minute.
It would be difficult to see all the hill towns in the region (yes, there are that many,) so we picked a few that sounded especially appealing based on guidebooks and advice from our hotel staff. A few of our favorites were:
Note: As hill towns go, Siena is the largest in the region and pretty much considered a must-see. Personally, we were disappointed by how modern and commercialized even the historic part of town is (Foot Lockers and other American mall-type stores lined the stone streets.) But it's still worth a stop for the stunning Duomo, dating from 1215, and the huge Piazza Il Campo where a wild, no-rules horse race is run every July and August.
But Back to the Rolling Tuscan Hillsides 
We made a small project out of locating some of the best-known postcard views of Tuscany's cypress-lined roads - a task made more difficult by the lack of road signs. However, before leaving home, we Googled on the topic and found other travelers' notes on how to reach some of these scenic spots. Finding them felt like a special victory! But with or without them, we came home with countless pictures of fields teeming with red poppies, villas flanked by vineyards, and some lovely cypress-lined roads we stumbled across on our own.
Note: As we traveled the winding roads that criss-cross Tuscany, we were kept company by the abundance of American music on the radio - everything from Dionne Warwick to Bruce Springsteen to Green Day.
Finding Romance in Tuscany
Romance is pretty easy to find in Tuscany, too, but here are some recommendations:
Tuscany is a must-see for those who enjoy lovely, rolling landscapes. The rich Medieval history and striking hill towns are wonderful perks to this region teeming with romantic ambience.
All Roads Lead to Rome
All roads may lead to Rome, but here's a tip: leave your rental car at the airport and take the train into the city. Even that was a bit of a challenge - remember, Italians don't seem to value signage as much as we do in America - but it was still by far the best choice.
You can look at Rome in two ways: it's a zoo or it's a party. Choose the party attitude and you'll have a much better time. This large, busy city seemed to have as many pedestrians as cars, and it was usually unclear who had the right of way, especially on small streets left over from older times.
Getting Around Rome
To walk or take the train around town? It's a toss-up. Rome is a walking city, but things are often farther away than they appear and you can put many a mile on your sneakers by day's end. On the other hand, some of the subway terminals were confusing to navigate and had broken ticket machines, or they were far enough out of the way that it just seemed simpler to walk.
The streets are confusing - remember, this is a very old city, full of twists and turns. Our advice: Follow the signs toward major landmarks and don't be frustrated if you get lost. On one particular evening, after listening to street musicians for a while at the popular Piazza Navonna, we started the twisting trek toward our hotel, following signs and making good progress - we thought - until, about fifteen minutes later, we emerged right back onto the Piazza Navonna. We just looked at each other and cracked up laughing.
Where to Stay
We made our home in Rome the LaResidenzia Hotel, near the Via Venetta, a major thoroughfare. Despite the fact that two lap dance clubs sit directly across the street from the hotel, we were very happy with our choice - which is to say we never really saw any traffic at the clubs and they seemed very quiet. Like our other Italian accommodations, the staff was knowledgeable and friendly. Sitting areas in the lobby were spacious and elegant, our room was nice with lots of storage and a turn-down service, and a pretty good breakfast buffet was included in the price of the room.
Ancient Rome - Walking Through History 
If you're a history lover, this is why you're here. We loved the Colesseum and the Forum, as well as Palatine Hill (where many Roman rulers built their palaces.) Our advice: It's worth it to pay for the tours here. Not only do you get good, interesting information along the way, if you enter with a tour, you bypass the long lines to get in.
We spent a couple of hours roaming around the Colesseum, and more time outside, just taking pictures and enjoying the ambience of the area. As this was a sight I'd only dreamed of seeing, it felt almost surreal to actually be there. I had the same reaction to the Roman Forum and enjoyed knowing I was walking the same paths Julius Caesar and so many other historic figures had traveled. I found myself wanting to take a picture at every step to be sure I captured it all, and I truly felt the impact of being in the cradle of modern Western civilization.
Roaming Around Rome
Of course, there's much more to see here than just the ancient ruins. We enjoyed sitting on the Spanish steps, hanging out at the Trevi Fountain, touring the Pantheon (an amazing piece of ancient architecture,) and taking in the views from the Victor Immanuel Monument (although not as famous as some stops in Rome, you can't miss it on your way to the Colesseum - it's an enormous building that looks like a giant wedding cake.)
Rome is filled with countless piazzas - or town squares - both great and small, and each has it's own personality. Some are large, sporting numerous cafes, shops, fountains, and street artists, while others are smaller and less busy. It was fun to be walking along a narrow street and suddenly exit into another new piazza and see what it had to offer.
Adventures at the Vatican
How many people can say they've been kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica? I don't know, but we are now among that number. More to come on that in a moment.
First, some facts. This is another place where it's wise to pay extra and enter with a tour group - it cut our wait considerably and we truly got a lot out of the tour. Also, you must where clothing that covers your shoulders and knees to be admitted to St. Peter's Basilica.
Our tour covered St. Peter's Square, the Basilica, and the Vatican museum, including the Sistine Chapel. Upon entering the Basilica, we'd barely gotten started when an angry man approached our tour guide and began yelling at her in Italian. She reported that we were being thrown out because he didn't believe we were a real tour group and that she'd bring us back later. Weird but true, and we never did really understand what happened there. But on with the show.
We were, honestly, a little let down by the Sistine Chapel, which I'd long looked forward to seeing. It's an amazing piece of art, yes, but the ceiling is higher than I'd envisioned, so it's really pretty difficult to see. The whole room was packed with people craning their necks to try to take it in, which made everyone prone to bumping into each other. Plus you can't take pictures (understandable) and you can't talk (less understandable.)
After the chapel, it was back to the church, but we had to pretend we were not a tour group. (Again, confusing, I know.) But we enjoyed the un-tour of the basilica and were taken aback by the scope and size. Particularly notable items in the church: the famous Pieta by Michelangelo, the enormous canopy marking the (official but who knows) burial spot of St. Peter, and a statue of St. Peter to which, tradition holds, one should hold onto the toe, make three wishes, and they will come true.
One nice thing about being kicked out of St. Peter's Basilica: when we returned, hours had passed, and the sun shone through small windows in the dome, casting a heavenly glow on the floor, which made for amazing photos.
A Few Tips for Your Time in Rome
Finding Romance in Rome
Rome is busier and a bit more challenging in ways, but you still need not look far for romance here:
Ah, Rome. Two-thousand years of history and culture and architecture. It's a lot to take in, but it would be a crime to visit Italy without fully embracing it's exciting, bustling capital.
Ciao!
We travel a lot, but our trip to Italy was truly the romantic adventure of a lifetime.
Final tip: Take your time exploring romantic Italy, and eat a lot of gelato because it's just not as good at home, no matter what anyone says.
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GREVE-IN-CHIANTO AND MONTALCINO Tues Oct 16: We drove to Greve in Chianti and Montalcino. Because of a late start and 90 minutes spent in Greve, missing the turn at Siena, plus choosing the wrong side road home to avoid part of the Fi-Pi-Li, this was too long a day. This was also the first of many smoky days in Tuscany, which watered our eyes and obscured the views to which we had so looked forward. Apparently, by October the grapes have been harvested and the trimmings are burned. There’s a very interesting and very slick wine museum and tasting room in Greve: Le Cantine. You buy a sort of credit card from the desk (minimum 10 euros), then insert it into whichever tasting dispenser appeals to you. Tastes start at 1 euro and go up from there. You can reload the card for more, or get a refund for any unused portion. You can also taste olive oils here, using the same card. In Montalcino we tasted Brunellos (8-15 euros per glass) at the enoteca in the Fortezza, then walked around the town.
SAN GIMIGNANO AND VOLTERRA Weds Oct 17: It’s a scenic 90-minute drive to San Gimignano and Volterra from Calci. SG was quite crowded with tourists but enjoyable and memorable nonetheless. We found a park at the top of the town with lovely views over the countryside, a watercolorist, and a harpist. The wine museum just below the park is free and there is a tasting room also. I chose the 8-euro tasting of 6 local wines. Because the wines are not sold here, I carefully noted the one I liked the best and was told where in town to buy it. The store told me it’s over 90 euros a bottle. Talk about champagne taste on a beer budget!
LARI AND CASCIANA Thurs Oct 18: We set out for the Martelli Pasta Factory in Lari. Do call them first, because they don’t actually make something every single day. It was not necessary to make a specific appointment, however. It’s a yellow building located right across from the castle wall, just around the corner from the town’s main square. The very charming Luca Martelli guided us, explained the process, told us where in town we could buy it, and gave us directions to the Frantoio Olive Oil Processing Plant in nearby Casciana Alta. There we were given a tour, in Italian, by its owner.
The Martelli company sells its pasta to the Williams Sonoma catalog. Luca explained that their machines give its pasta a rough texture, better for holding the sauce. He also told us the three best things about the United States: Crocs shoes (which he was wearing, and which was funny for us because they’re made in our home town), GMC trucks, and the US Marine Corps.
On the way from Lari to Casciana Alta, we had to stop to ask for directions again. A very old man, sitting in the sun with his equally elderly dog outside their home, ambled over and peered into each of our cars while considering my question. Another old man came over to join us. He told me how to go and I shook his hand and thanked him, and later we laughed about how we had probably made his day, and he’ll be able to dine out on that story for quite a while.
SIENA Fri Oct 19: Two hour drive to Siena, where we were thrilled to learn that the marble inlay floor of the Duomo was still uncovered (everything we had read indicated they were only open to view in September). This Duomo is spectacular, inside and out.
Be sure to see the side votive chapel, where there are helmets and other remembrances of the yearly Palio. Some went down into the crypt to see the remains of St. Catherine. One of the many ceramics shops in town was attended only by a very distinguished older gentlemen, complete with white hair and beard, cravat, nice suit, who was reading a thick, dusty old book. What amused me was that he was listening to the awfulest, loud, Euro-pop music on the radio! After eating our sack lunches in the Campo, we walked down Via Galluzza on the way back, which was lined with buildings and light posts bearing goose emblems, representing that particular contrada. One home even had lace curtains with a goose in the design.
A note about Siena: you park outside the ancient wall, then go down and back up steep hills inside the wall to reach the city center.
A DAY AT THE BEACH Sat Oct 20: Drove to the provincial seaside park at Marina di Vecchiano (found on the Pisa provincial map), saw pheasants along the road, and walked the beach, which was framed by the white marble cliffs of the Apuan Alps to the north. Then stopped briefly at Torre di Lago Puccini, then on to lunch in Viareggio. Some of the group had a fine lunch at Romano, Via Mazzini 122, which had been described in the NY Times. Excellent service and food; entrees start at 28 euros. The rest of us walked a few blocks to the Sa Playa, Viale Margherita 68 on the passegiata street. It’s very casual, but the food was good and the service was accommodating and the value was good (about 15 euros pp). Stopped at Lucca on the way home to visit the weekend antique market.
ASSISI AND CORTONA Sun, Oct 21: Two of us left at 6:30 am to drive almost 3 hours to Assisi, thinking (correctly) that driving would be easier early on a Sunday (having already run into some slow construction areas on both the Fi-Pi-Li and the Autostrada ring road around Florence). It was a beautiful day, though still cold and windy. We think Assisi is, overall, was the prettiest town we saw. The Basilica complex is astounding; the church itself is lovely and peaceful inside. The town and the church were extremely crowded-a disadvantage of visiting on a Sunday. Detoured to Cortona on the way back, which is small and charming in its own way although we didn’t linger because of the cold wind and fading sunshine. Got home at 4:30 pm. The rest of the group had gone to Collodi, near Calci, which has some kind of botanical and Pinocchio-themed park. They were disappointed in it.
LUCCA AND BARGA Mon, Oct 22: The wind finally stopped, although it was still cold. Four of us bundled up for a walk along the main shopping street of Lucca (Via Filungo), a snack, and a bike ride on top of the walls. It cost 2.50 per hour and took us a half hour to make the circuit of the town, at a relaxed but steady pace that made for a refreshing outing. A lot of the stores were closed because it’s Monday. We accidentally found ample free and unlimited parking at the Il Sporto lot near the Porta Santa Maria on the north side of the wall, near the intersection of Via della Tagliato S Marco and Via Marchi, one block north of the Viale Carlo Del Prete which parallels the wall.
The other four enjoyed a trip to Barga, a nearby medieval town, which they reported to be scenic and uncrowded, with free parking and cheaper tourist menus than better-known places.
I got to the library in Calci when it was due to open at 4 p.m. The door was unlocked and the building was empty and dark. I waited 15 minutes then gave up. In the meantime my husband was in the grocery store next door, assigned to purchase hamburger meat for our spaghetti sauce. He had to settle for prepackaged hamburger patties, because there was a long line of people waiting for the butcher to reappear. Maybe he was out back with the librarian having a smoke break?? OK, I’m ready to go home and be in familiar surroundings!
CALCI Tuesday, Oct 23: We visited the Certosa di Calci, an enormous and elaborate Carthusian monastery right above Calci. It cost 8 euros each and you have to be accompanied by a guide who only speaks Italian. Fortunately for us there was a British couple along who could translate. The place has been spectacularly restored and is worth a visit.
Then we made a scouting trip to the airport to judge when to leave in the morning, to find the car rental return, and how to get there. Although we had planned to train to Florence in the morning for our last night there on our own before returning home, we saw that there is an express bus to the Santa Maria Novella station in Florence, and decided to take that instead. It leaves on a better schedule and the luggage will be easier to manage. Cost is 8 euros pp one way.
Waited too long to try dinner out in Calci. Il Vecchio Pieve doesn’t open until 8 pm, which was too late given our early wakeups tomorrow morning. The nice looking place with the heated garden tent, about a block south of the grocery store, is closed on Tuesdays. So we had excellent pizza at Il Barrino, despite others in our group, who found the non-pizza entrees much too salty.
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